Mech

Randy.. I'm just not interested in you, or the problems you have.. I'm here for people that want advice and help.

I'm a mechanic Randy, trained and educated in these things, with fifty plus years of bike owning, riding, and repairing, working on bikes from every continent and models from the forties onwards. I've repaired, restored, modified and customized hundreds of bikes for a living.. Nightmares, days and weeks struggling to tune it... These are not problems I have..

Ok... I'm not familiar with the model. It's always the recommended thing to check or do a standard tune before trying to find defects. That would include the fuel filter and any vacuum hoses if the bike has emission control components, such as a vapour trap canister. A tight valve clearance could cause that, so could a defective or incorrectly adjusted sparkplug, or a lean mixture. Those, apart from the sparkplug though, will be temp related.. they probably won't be the problem from cold. They used to say on older models that as part of the standard tune and service that you should take a bung out at the back of the muffler and run the bike to drain any accumulated gunge.. I've tried it heaps of times and never got anything out, but they seem to think the mufflers block.. A blocked muffler could cause your symptoms, and it might be why the muffler's leaking.. A leak at the muffler won't cause the miss, but it perhaps it would be worth checking the exhaust isn't blocked. I'd check all those things first, then start looking for electrical/electronic problems.. Your observations have been good so far. It's useful, vital even, to note the symptoms in as much detail as possible, and also the circumstances such as throttle positions, temp, load, time running, rough ground, rain.. anything we notice that seems to consistently causes the problem because they are often the thing that helps diagnose the problem, and, then we can repeat the conditions after the work to be sure we have fixed it.

Haha.. Brain fart.. you are right Randy.. About the cutaway..

But but but... neither myself or any of the carby manufacturers think it is a good idea !! But what would we know... We all even think the slide has the cutaway on the other side.. Foolish us.. You're so smart Randy, you should run for President..

My previous design Bender was a bit simpler. It was like that tool I've shown above, but without the belt of outer pulley. It was used by holding and engaging the screwdriver with one hand, then reaching in with one finger and pressing on the gear hard enough to turn the screwdriver by the gear.. Yes I know Randy, you've already told me you come here because you enjoy arguing.. Which is why I've refrained for so long from responding. I'm familiar with the problems with old bikes, and carburetors. I'll leave it to the readers to make up their own minds how to do things.

The valve clearances have a bit of a habit of getting out of spec after their first adjustment after a stripdown. I'd recheck them. Sparkplug gap can effect idle too. Then the symptoms, if it's only the idle that's playing up, and it runs ok otherwise, sound like fuel problems. I'd be trying to adjust the idle mixture, which will either cure the bad idle, or reveal a blocked/faulty idle system. Probably requiring a clean and inspection. I'd very much doubt the cdi is the problem.

Is it a carby or fuel injected motor ? I know what a miss is, but what is a cough ? Do you mean it spits back out the intake ? I doubt the exhaust is your problem.

Nice quad in the profile pic there Bellarmine. I agree about the cdi, they rarely give problems.. the unit itself mostly go, or die. The fuel system gives more running problems. The charging is a common cause of bad running though too though.

Both ways have the right mixture at idle, but my way, as the throttle is opened the mixture gets richer, your way Randy, it gets leaner as the throttle gets opened.. And, just for the record.. It's not just my way, it's the way the carby was designed, and jetted, to operate.

Yeah well the reason you have that problem Randy is because the way you do it, you are using both the idle discharge holes as one. There are two discharge holes into the venturi right by the butterfly, one on the engine side and one on the aircleaner side of the butterfly, when it's closed properly. When the butterfly is closed off the idle mixture is supposed to come up from the adjustment needle and get sucked out the hole nearest the engine, but, the mixture is getting diluted by an extra measure of air getting drawn in through the second hole, the one away from the engine. Because of that extra air, we end up adjusting the idle mixture slightly richer to get it right. As the butterfly starts to open, the second hole starts to have vacuum applied to it and it starts discharging fuel as well, and, at the same time, the first hole doesn't get extra air anymore.That second hole discharging combined with the now undiluted mixture out the first hole is what stops the flat spot you have when you adjust it your way. The way you do it Randy, you have both holes discharging fuel at idle, and because of that, you have the idle mixture screw wound in more than it should be. It gives the right mixture at idle, but when the butterfly opens there is a shortage of fuel.. it's being restricted by the idle screw. If we want our bikes to run right, it's important to set the idle mixture with the least possible amount of throttle opening. Once the idle mixture is right, at a slow idle, we can wind the speed up a little if we want.. but don't start adjusting the mixture again or you will start going around in a vicious circle of mixture/speed/mixture/speed, which will lead to the symptom Randy describes.. a flat spot.

If the other end of the boot you have is right is right, then that 4KB might be the one. Looking at pictures I see some boots look like the big end is closer to the small end diameter than other boots.. The 2HR looks like it's big end is quite a bit bigger than it's small end diameter. The 4Kb the two ends look similar. Probably easiest to ask them what the diameter is before you buy though to be sure.

Looking around I see there are two numbers listed... 4KB-22189-00-00 2HR-22189-00-00 The 2HR seems to be the commonest..

Yes screwing it out makes the idle richer. They are mongrols to adjust alright. I made a tool to do it.. there's a picture in here somewhere. Probably a bit much trouble for occasional use, but the recommended settings is just a starting point really.they do run nicer with the mixture fine tuned. https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/16053-carby-adjusting/

If you tell us how many seconds, with what amount of throttle, we can probably guess where a fuel blockage would be. Best if you time it with about a quarter throttle, and then again at about three-quarter throttle.. Ha.. ok.. you were too quick for me. Well done on the repair.

Could be a blocked fuel filter, a bad pump if it has one, dirt or water in the carby.. Easiest is to check there is a good supply of fuel getting to the carby. If it has a drain screw on the bottom of the carb I'd undo that with the fuel tap off and catch the fuel as it drains to check it for water. Then I'd leave the drain open and turn the fuel on and make sure it flows out again at a reasonable trickle. If it doesn't have a drain screw, I'd pull the fuel hose off the carby and check for a good flow of fuel there. If there's plenty of fuel getting to the carby, I'd pull the carby and clean it..

I think you should check the cam timing..

Yup that's right, they prime them for a few seconds when you go to crank it over, and after it starts and you let the key off something like the crank or cam position sensor signals to keep the pump on. Your test is a good one.. But then you need to read up on how to get the trouble codes out of the dash, or what sensor it is that keeps the pump running.

Ok. That's a much more informative explanation.. It does sound like carby, not the idle but possibly the needle or main jet, or float height, but before I went pulling it off again(since you sound like you know your stuff), I'd check the spark was a good one at the plug. If the plug cap comes off the lead, you could take that off and jury rig the wire on the plug for a while, a small split pin can be poked into the wire and fitted to the plug end perhaps. The other thing is, are you sure you have the right heat range plug for your riding conditions ? Have you tried one one step hotter ? Are you using NGK plugs ?

"Installed new battery. Now when trying to start, it seems normal, turns over, and begins to start, but immediately dies.". Well.. dying straight after start up, disregarding the battery issue, I'd be checking the fuel pump and pressure. Running lean could make it run hot. A burning out/seizing fuel pump could bugger the battery perhaps..

You need to drill a small hole in the brass plug(sounds like it's already been done) and screw a self tapping screw into it and use that to pull the plug out, then there is an adjusting screw under there. It would be unusual though for the idle mixture to foul a plug after 45 minutes operation. Does it idle ? Does the choke work, and turn off properly ?Are you sure it's fouling with petrol ? Does it smoke at all ?

Nah second hand observations about chinese bikes in general. CF aren't common here and I mainly work on suzuki and honda, a few yamahah and kawasaki, and very occasionally something american. My initial comments were about "chinese atv", and bikes.. of which there a lot of different makes. They really don't need any "talking down". Most of them are cheap and break parts far to easily as far as I can see, which is an opinion that sees the local bike shop owner, also a mechanic, refuse to even have them in the workshop. If you think Cf is the exception, and you're happy with yours, then that's fine. I hope you get a good run out of it.

Oh. Ok. There are a lot of makes of atv made in china.. Most of them break easy and parts are real hard to find. And when I say break, I mean things like kickstart shafts breaking, and gearbox shafts, things that should never break.. So it's CF that you want to know about specifically ? I wouldn't buy any of them, or a cf, but other people may chip in with opinions about CFMoto. Bottom line is probably that you get what you pay for.

Ha.. It happens ! Good onya.

And the shift in N-SL-1-2-3-4- Yes? And N-R ? So is it first or superlow it won't engage ? And does the lever move without doing anything, or does it come up solid against something so it won't shift ?