Gwbarm

Those are bad from the factory to run rich, try adjusting the fuel mixture, and you might try lowering the slide needle.

It might clean up and work, but i think i would first try to figure out what the stator was hitting the rotor, loose bolt flywheel key sheared off etc. I think the rotor has been replaced already the green kind of says aftermarket. I would keep my eyes open for a used one on Ebay sometimes you can find them as a set cheap .

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Try a new spark plug and check ignition wiring connections. and maybe do a compressionn test. Could be out of time but should still spark.

Mech! Your opinion may be more valuable than mine here, I have not seen a 225 only 250s and 350s. The rebuild kits comes both ways as he described.

I think it will be OK , but if you can send me a link to what you bought i will take a closer look.

That looks great! I really like the green. You have worked hard on it. Great work!

Im thinking that also , i did drench the valve thats stuck with PB Blaster, that allows you to take it out of gear to roll it around, im hoping it is just stuck somewhere between roll it around and go in gear. I didnt run it too long i want to change the coolant and oil before i get it too hot. The handbrake has to be on to start it, and you have to be sitting on the seat to take off the handbrake or it will stop running but it does give you a couple of seconds before that happens. I unplugged the seat switch and it still tried to stop when i took off the handbrake, so i will try to bypass that, kind of hard to diagnose sitting on the seat, but i do like their safety features really strait forward unlike some of the current ones that are just annoying, and there is a small access plate to get to the transmission and try a few things. Thanks for sticking with me on this one, your comments are always very helpful and keeps me motivated. Even though its not a quad it does have 4 wheels.

Is your tappet gap tighter or looser and on both valves, tighter or a bent valve would explain low compression.

Just looked it up. He did have one, you might want to talk to them they are very knowledgeable and kept me from ordering the wrong one, i gave him my Vin and he told me which one to order. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154609803212?epid=13049274481&itmmeta=01JCF2HDKYTK2PYDHBZ1YER326&hash=item23ff765fcc:g:d8kAAOSwbZ5m~wvt

Got it running today! Runs really good right! Seems to be idling a little fast i will check the idle speed. Went to start it 2 hrs later wouldnt start. I think the little fuel plunger that i freed up is still sticking. But thats not the real problem if you noticed when i moved the shift lever it did nothing. I kind of suspected there might be a problem there. When i went to move it to work on it the little lever in the back that you move to be able to roll it didnt release. Jacked up the wheels and rolled them one turns one way and the other turns the other way. That could mean the brake is stuck or the hydrostatic valve is stuck, probably the latter because the brake didnt work at all went to the floor. I have never worked on a hydrostatic transmission will be a learning expierience for me. At least the new old coil worked. Excuse the shaky video i was trying to hold the camera move the shift lever and parking brake and brake at the same time. There also may be an issue with the parking brake if it is not releasing all the way the engine stumbles and will eventually die so you dont drive it with the parking brake on. I noticed when i was releasing it the light would still flicker until you push it down hard, im going to investigate that also. IMG_5225.mov

Good point Mech! The throttle cable may also need to be adjusted to let the throttle plate close all the way, but if its idling good and slow that may not be a problem, but if its idling too fast may want to check that. That electric thing may be a carb heater, mine didnt have one but a lot of them did, and more than likely it was OEM if that is on there.

Was you original really an OEM it could have also been an aftermarket.

Thats ashamed that carb was very repairable, you might have needed some new jets to make it like new but maybe not they would also cleanup. Never throw OEM carbs away , they are valuable. That being said there is a guy on Ebay that is selling new Mikunis for a fraction of the price that Yamaha sells them for. Dont know how or why and i was skeptical but bought one for my 2000 Big Bear anyway. I have had no problems with it and it is a Mikuni Carb. I think the seller was Nikki Cycle, i will look it up and get the information if you are interested. I think i paid 200 for it. Mine also had an aftermarket carb on it but it was worse than your original all white and crusty from water getting into it and i didnt even waste time on it, just ordered a new one. Looking at your photos yours was not bad at all. I looked at the link you sent and i didnt see Mikuni anywhere on the carb, i would be skeptical.

Yeah the seafoam cleaned out all the oil carbon and everything, try putting some oil back in the cylinder and check the compression again see if it goes up, if it does its definately the rings , you might also check the valve clearance and see if it has changed since using the sea foam.

It sounds like you have replaced everything ignition related, maybe check connectors and wires to make sure they are not corroded and have continuity.

I have had plugs do that before, i learned firing issues replace plug first and go from there.

So once you hooked up the driveshaft it wouldnt turn, but both engine and differential was turning freely before you hooked up the driveshaft.

It sounds like the chain may have jumped off the crank gear, take the cam sproket out and see if you can reposition the chain back on the spoket.

Thats strange the aftermarket never worked they usually start with them and need adjusting, must have been way out of adjustment. Anuway glad you got it running.

Were you able to get the broken bolts out of the flywheel or did you replace it.

Look at the throttle plate inside the carb make sure it is not jammed open or stuck also check the cable make sure its not sticking.

Actually its getting close to winter here not much grass to cut.

I would take a closer look at the timing chain and gears, roll it around and look at all the teeth, and im sure you checked the flywheel key. Yes something else could have happened if it sheered off bolts thats a lot of stress on gears.

Getting closer got the battery tray installed back today, it is now removable. I was going to weld it back, but then if i have to remove it again be more difficult. Just like it never happened The holdown was missing going to fabricate that clean the rust off and then pressure wash the whole thing.