Gwbarm

That is strange it almost looks like it just blew out, but both the same spot, and you didnt even put a potato in your pipe. The last photo metal does look thinner than the first I would have expected better from John Deere. It almost looks like metal fatigue or a production flaw.

They can be difficult, quad tires are stiffer and harder to get on, the new ones go on better than the old ones come off. With age they get harder with not much flex. I have used c clamps to break the bead on old ones to get them off and if that didnt work drive the car over the tire to break the bead, and sometimes have to cut the old ones off. With all that being said its a lot of work, taking to a dealer with the right equipment is money well spent.

Thanks for the compliment Mech, it means a lot to me.

You might check you master cylinder could be low of fluid or actually stuck sometimes they will come back around but most times they do not.

Congratulations on becoming a paid member Chuck! I am also a paid member, and it wasnt for a free manual, that is just a great benefit provided by the Admin, i joined and used the site for a few months and saw how good it was and wanted to help support it. I had been on other sites before i found this one and most times i would not even get a response for a week or so. So i try to respond to everyones question, quickly, just to acknowlege someone is listening, wheather i know the exact correct answer or not, at least try to help them figure it out.

Actually that is the shaft, the shaft adapter fit from engine to centrifical clutch set up before the transmission. No u joints per say . The adapter has a hard rubber piece that fits together with the shaft not attached in any way, you pull the engine and it comes right off. have a hard rubber piece that fits into the part thats rusted. You might could see it better on the parts tree diagram the second photo. The shaft goes on to number 9 at the engine and number 5 at the transmission. You could probably take #9 3 bolts out and pull the shaft up and out but to do that you have to pull all the body work off. I havent found a shaft anywhere so im not doing any of that right now until i find the part. Just thought i would share how it works not a drive shaft like atv but very efficient for what its made to do, but this thing is 35 years old and highly abused, i got it out of a lawnmower junk yard, been looking for one for a while.

Yes the carb definately needs cleaning or replacing but a 25.00 carb may be more frustrating than you think,i i know, but im not familiar with that engine so anything may run good on it. Whats on it now.

That is the drive shaft, i think i will save that for another day, get it running and driving first.

Finally got the coil out today the plastic piece still wouldnt separate completely then i found the other bolt that wasnt listed in my manual and i missed it because it was right next to a wire keeper and caked with dirt. Got it so i could check the resistances plug caps were good 10.5 and 9.5 secondary was weak 8.0 ,8.8 is minimum, primary when i first touched it the reading was jumping all around and finally ended up on 000. But the coil looked good no rust or corrosion Then i noticed this, wouldnt have seen that if i hadnt cut out the battery tray. So that means i have to pull the engine anyway to replace that, some days you just cant win for loosing. But im still having fun. At least im working on something, no quad projects going right now i guess i need to look for another junker.

Nice looking machine reminds me of the Honda Odyssey from the 80s. Did it just start doing this or has it started getting a little worse over time.

Kind of confusing S is chain drive kick start. E is electric, pullstart. G is shaft drive.

Well finally got back on the honda today. Couldnt get any of my metal cutting tools in there to cut it out. Got my grinder took the guard off and i could get it in there. It was a challenge the one time i needed a plasma cutter. I have been meaning to get one but it would be used very rarely i dont do that much metal fabricating. I will say this when honda makes something they make it to last, i thought the battery tray was about rusted out until i started cutting it, very solid. I almost feel badly for hacking it up, but having to pull the engine every time i turned around was getting old. Now i can get to the coil, tighten the timing belt or change the water pump without pulling the engine. Still have to pull it for the starter, frame gets in the way, and replace timing belt, driveshaft has to come out. For a lawnmower it is built as solid as any Quad i have worked on, very impressed, good job HONDA! Not pretty but it will be when i finish. Now i have some access room

They do go down really small , and right, dont do much for caked varnish, it would be great if they made little brushes to get that off, but hard to make a brush that small, i would guess.

No this is fine, most generally look at all the new posts to see if we can help. Welcome!

If you are not getting power from the key switch to starting motor, i would look for the starter cutout relay that would keep it from turning over when you press the start button.

The set i have doesnt have the ridges they are smooth. I ttok another look and the metal is shiny and doesnt really feel like aluminum.

I thought it would probably be the Mikuni, they are good carbs. You may have to get a kit just to replace the gaskets, i wouldnt replace the jets they are OEM. Looking at the photos you sent i also thought it was an 86.

This is the OEM carb # that came on an 86 LT230S. You might check it with the carb thats on it see if they match.

Thats the set they sell for cleaning carbs but i agree i think they are welding tip cleaners.

You might try taking an infrared photo sometimes that will bring out things that arent visible, im sure the I phone probably has a setting for that although i have never looked for it.

There may be some numbers in different places not so obvious that they might not have found to grind off, i would keep a look out for that. Wont be as specific as the Vin # but may help.

Thats a great idea, never thought of using wood to clean the jets, i guess i figured with my luck the wood would break off in there and then i would have to get that out, i have a set of carb jet tools of different sizes all hooked together so you dont loose them, you only get the size you need out. I think they are made of soft aluminum so it doesnt ream the jet out.

Good idea ,carb could narrow it down by year, is it a Mikuni or a Kei-Hin carb.

There is one bolt on the back side that is difficut to get out it hits the air tube, so you have to remove the air tube to get it out. Its fairly ridgid and doesnt want to move easily but if you keep working at it you should be able to get it out.

The old one should be fine it may not look as nice as the new one, but as long as all the passages are clear and float actually floats it should work. I would probably go through it really well take out the emulsion tube and clean it and there is a tiny jet down in a hole thats easy to miss.