Gwbarm

No compression i would be looking at the timing and valves

Looks really good

Yeah! I thought it might be these little typical lawn mower brake pads also, but on this one not the case. Got real little brake shoes. And i can see how they would get stuck if you leave the parking brake on too long especially if there are no pad left which im assuming is what im going to find. I was hoping i could get the other unstuck with PB Blaster but i may try tapping with a small hammer. I have a very small Ball Peen which would be perfect but i couldnt find it today.

I quit avoiding the inevitable and tore in to it today. Got the whole backend off and found two problems! The brake is stuck and also the lever that you push back and forth to take it out of gear so you can roll it around. The brake must be really stuck because i pulled it around with the John Deere so i could work on it and the wheels dragging the whole time and it still didnt break loose. Thr brake is housed under this cover attached to the transmission and is a bear to get to. The lever has been soaking in PB Blaster for the last couple of days hasnt helped yet. You can see in the middle left of photo it pulls up on the piece of flat metal which attaches to a valve to move it in and out of gear. . A whole lot more than i had planned on getting into, rathar spend my time on a quad. but these are gaining popularity a lot of lot of people are restoring them, so probably time well spent. Glad i pulled it off it was a mess under there. Things seemed a little slow today thought this may be a little entertainment.

Those are bad from the factory to run rich, try adjusting the fuel mixture, and you might try lowering the slide needle.

It might clean up and work, but i think i would first try to figure out what the stator was hitting the rotor, loose bolt flywheel key sheared off etc. I think the rotor has been replaced already the green kind of says aftermarket. I would keep my eyes open for a used one on Ebay sometimes you can find them as a set cheap .

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Try a new spark plug and check ignition wiring connections. and maybe do a compressionn test. Could be out of time but should still spark.

Mech! Your opinion may be more valuable than mine here, I have not seen a 225 only 250s and 350s. The rebuild kits comes both ways as he described.

I think it will be OK , but if you can send me a link to what you bought i will take a closer look.

That looks great! I really like the green. You have worked hard on it. Great work!

Im thinking that also , i did drench the valve thats stuck with PB Blaster, that allows you to take it out of gear to roll it around, im hoping it is just stuck somewhere between roll it around and go in gear. I didnt run it too long i want to change the coolant and oil before i get it too hot. The handbrake has to be on to start it, and you have to be sitting on the seat to take off the handbrake or it will stop running but it does give you a couple of seconds before that happens. I unplugged the seat switch and it still tried to stop when i took off the handbrake, so i will try to bypass that, kind of hard to diagnose sitting on the seat, but i do like their safety features really strait forward unlike some of the current ones that are just annoying, and there is a small access plate to get to the transmission and try a few things. Thanks for sticking with me on this one, your comments are always very helpful and keeps me motivated. Even though its not a quad it does have 4 wheels.

Is your tappet gap tighter or looser and on both valves, tighter or a bent valve would explain low compression.

Just looked it up. He did have one, you might want to talk to them they are very knowledgeable and kept me from ordering the wrong one, i gave him my Vin and he told me which one to order. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154609803212?epid=13049274481&itmmeta=01JCF2HDKYTK2PYDHBZ1YER326&hash=item23ff765fcc:g:d8kAAOSwbZ5m~wvt

Got it running today! Runs really good right! Seems to be idling a little fast i will check the idle speed. Went to start it 2 hrs later wouldnt start. I think the little fuel plunger that i freed up is still sticking. But thats not the real problem if you noticed when i moved the shift lever it did nothing. I kind of suspected there might be a problem there. When i went to move it to work on it the little lever in the back that you move to be able to roll it didnt release. Jacked up the wheels and rolled them one turns one way and the other turns the other way. That could mean the brake is stuck or the hydrostatic valve is stuck, probably the latter because the brake didnt work at all went to the floor. I have never worked on a hydrostatic transmission will be a learning expierience for me. At least the new old coil worked. Excuse the shaky video i was trying to hold the camera move the shift lever and parking brake and brake at the same time. There also may be an issue with the parking brake if it is not releasing all the way the engine stumbles and will eventually die so you dont drive it with the parking brake on. I noticed when i was releasing it the light would still flicker until you push it down hard, im going to investigate that also. IMG_5225.mov

Good point Mech! The throttle cable may also need to be adjusted to let the throttle plate close all the way, but if its idling good and slow that may not be a problem, but if its idling too fast may want to check that. That electric thing may be a carb heater, mine didnt have one but a lot of them did, and more than likely it was OEM if that is on there.

Was you original really an OEM it could have also been an aftermarket.

Thats ashamed that carb was very repairable, you might have needed some new jets to make it like new but maybe not they would also cleanup. Never throw OEM carbs away , they are valuable. That being said there is a guy on Ebay that is selling new Mikunis for a fraction of the price that Yamaha sells them for. Dont know how or why and i was skeptical but bought one for my 2000 Big Bear anyway. I have had no problems with it and it is a Mikuni Carb. I think the seller was Nikki Cycle, i will look it up and get the information if you are interested. I think i paid 200 for it. Mine also had an aftermarket carb on it but it was worse than your original all white and crusty from water getting into it and i didnt even waste time on it, just ordered a new one. Looking at your photos yours was not bad at all. I looked at the link you sent and i didnt see Mikuni anywhere on the carb, i would be skeptical.

Yeah the seafoam cleaned out all the oil carbon and everything, try putting some oil back in the cylinder and check the compression again see if it goes up, if it does its definately the rings , you might also check the valve clearance and see if it has changed since using the sea foam.

It sounds like you have replaced everything ignition related, maybe check connectors and wires to make sure they are not corroded and have continuity.

I have had plugs do that before, i learned firing issues replace plug first and go from there.

So once you hooked up the driveshaft it wouldnt turn, but both engine and differential was turning freely before you hooked up the driveshaft.

It sounds like the chain may have jumped off the crank gear, take the cam sproket out and see if you can reposition the chain back on the spoket.

Thats strange the aftermarket never worked they usually start with them and need adjusting, must have been way out of adjustment. Anuway glad you got it running.

Were you able to get the broken bolts out of the flywheel or did you replace it.