Gwbarm

Those were great little quads. Light nibble easy to manuver and very capable for most things. Welcome and good luck with it. We are here to help if you need it.

If it was 20 years old i would say you could have something going on with the belt and shieve but this is brand new you should not have problems with anything. It is very possible that the dirt and sand you ran through may have affected the electronic lockup to go into 4 wheel drive, but it shouldnt have. Im not that familiar with these very rarely work on new ones. I think i would contact the dealer.

Its hard to Judge whats really going on. Not all chinese carbs are built the same and not being familiar with the one you have is difficult. I set the float level as the factory setting suggests which means the float is parallel with the float chamber lip. Then adjust it out from there with the air fuel mixture screw..The only time i vary that adjustment is if gas is still overflowing from the float chamber which theoretically shouldnt happen unless there is a discrepancy in the needle and seat. If you bought this carb new i am assuming it is right one for your quad. If not i would not spend much time on a aftermarket carb. The cheapest solution would be to get another aftermarket carb, my expierience is some work great but most dont. If i was doing it and wanted it up and running quickly i would try the cheapest solution, but continue to look for an OEM carb to rebuild and get it back to factoruy specs with oem jets and needles.

Great you got the rings installed and no smoking, sorry to hear about the fire bad luck there. You might check closely and make sure non of the electronics were burned. Did the hard starting occur after the fire or didnt really run it long enough to notice it and the fire didnt really cause anything. Its very possible that the aftermarket carb is causing your running and starting problems, but because of the fire i think i would take it apart to make sure nothing in there got hot enough to caause damage.

That doesnt correspond to any VIN # that im used to seeing, looks more like an engine # . You might look at the fframe closer to see if you see a different #, or contact Arctic Cat they are usually very helpful.

There were some CPI ATVs produced around 2007 one that comes to mind is the CPI XS250, but that engine looks smaller than a 250. There were also some CPI scooters made around the same time may still be around but i have not seen one.

With no markings on the case i would guess its chinese probably around 125cc.

The assembly has to come off to change them.

Thanks for the update, its always good to hear success stories. You have been busy and did a lot of work, glad you got it going. Excellent work!

OOOPs You are right wrong thread. Age is a terrible thing.

Well the little 87 Honda TRX 250 has failed again. Its only been about 3 months and its not used everyday Havent got to it to see what happened yet, brother said it got real noisy when pushing the start button and now wont start. Curious to see what has happened i replaced all the gears with original honda gears except for the starter couldnt find an original honda starter in good shape, but i did use a reputable aftermarket Caltric. My suspect is it has sheared the starter gears and metal chunks have gotten into the stator, but could be something else. I think im going to take him my Big Bear to use bring this one home so i can really go through it and see whats going on.

Great explanation Mech. Dont see that happen very often in ATV, see it a lot in Briggs, when you shut it off sounds like a gun shot out the exhaust within a couple of seconds, i always thought it was just a leaky needle and seat letting gas into a hot cylinder and igniting because it would always stop after i went through the carb and replaced all the seals.

Great work! You did an excellent job on replacing the harness in 30 minutes. I spend 30 minutes just thinking about replacing a harness before i ever start.

Agreed! If its fowling plugs that rapidly it should be smoking , does the smoke have a bluish tint or black.

I very rarely have one this difficult to remove so you may be right that something is wrong. Spocks idea is a very good one never thought to do that, when i have one this difficult i usually use a slide hammer to bump it loose, i have even had to make larger slide hammers with heavier weight to get it out, but that is rare.

Excellent work! You have come a long way with this project. Running and moving so soon 😳

Excellent work! Sometimes little things drive you crazy.

Thats bad news. I hate it when that happens. I have fixed many cranks with bad threads, first i get the correct die for the threads on the crank and try that first, it will work if it hasnt obliterated the threads closest to the engine and if it has i have gotton away with using an extra washer there to keep the nut from getting on the area with no threads.

Yeah, with the cover off, push down on the kick lever by hand gently and try turning the clutch basket by hand or with a wrench to try and determine where it is binding, or what is going on. Im wondering if you got the correct gear, easy to get the wrong part off ebay, i know first hand, you have to look at the part very carefully.

Hit clear editor and it will go away then you can type in your new post, been happening to me also. I also didnt get new notifications for a few days but seems to be working right now. Really appreciate the Admin for keeping this site running good.

Good observation! It has gotten hot at some point in its life. Not necessarily getting hot now but could be. Since you are this far in , i would go ahead and remove the clutch plates and check everything out, when things get that hot they have a tendency to warp, i would also check the bearings and gears making sure everything is rolling smoothly as it should.

Big bear 400 transmissions are rathar finicky. I would check all the cable and linkages involved and see if they are adjusted right. Also symptoms would be a big help in diagnosis. You also might check the clutch adjustment.

I hate to hear what a shop charged you for all that. I would check the throttle cable and throttle plate , make sure its opening all the way and that the rev limiter is not stopping anything. I would think a professional shop would have rebuilt it right , rings in the right way and gaps staggered, etc. Since you just spent all that money i would at least call them and tell them what its doing and that you are not happy, see what they say.

I had trouble finding it also, its called something different overhere, could not find any Loctite master gasket. I ended up determining it was the same as Loctite 518 gasket sealer and got it off Amazon. May not be exactly the same but should work well. What a hoot you found out how much to get it from New Zealand! Great bit of research there, very impressive.

I did get some Mech when you recommended it , just havent been into an engine deep enough to use it yet.