Gwbarm

I suspected it was just missing, but, WOW, what an ordeal, that sounds like something that might have happened to me. Safari Van, i remember those almost bought one once, but got the Plymouth Voyager instead and hauled many junkers home with it, but i didnt have a trailer hitch. Very interested in your project, thats what i do , bring abused machines back to life. Good luck!

Response from Kenda: Hi there, thank you for reaching out to Kenda! Both the Bear Claw K299 and Bear Claw EX K573 are great choices, but given your specific needs, here's how they compare: Bear Claw K299 : link here: https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/atvutv/utility-utv/bearclaw/ -Best for general all-terrain use -Strong traction in mud, loose dirt, and moderate snow -6-ply rating – durable and puncture-resistant -Classic, time-tested design with aggressive tread Pros for you: Works well in the woods and on uneven terrain Good for towing due to solid grip and durability Cons for you: Not as smooth on paved surfaces Slightly less grip on steeper inclines compared to the K573 Bear Claw EX K573 : link here: https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/atvutv/utility-utv/bearclaw-ex/ -More aggressive tread design for better grip -Better on hills due to deeper lugs -6-ply rating – stronger sidewalls, better for towing -Improved self-cleaning tread pattern for mud and wet conditions Pros for you: Handles hills and inclines better More stability when towing a loaded trailer Slightly smoother ride on mixed terrain, including pavement Cons for you: Slightly heavier than the K299 Final Recommendation Since you'll be using your ATV for towing firewood, navigating hills, and riding on both pavement and off-road, the Bear Claw EX K573 is the better choice. It offers more stability, better grip on inclines, and a smoother ride on mixed surfaces. However, if budget is a concern and you're mostly on flatter terrain, the K299 is still a solid option. We thank you for your questions, and recommend asking a local dealership for your Kenda tire purchases.

I dont really keep up with the new models so much, 4 trax foreman is new to me dont really know much about it but its a honda im sure its good. Four trax is a name they put on their very first ATVs in the 80s.

I never find any thing usable for ATVs at the autoparts store. Good thing about amazon easy returns. What about the clips that were on there would they not work. Looks like a nice cable did it come with the clips i couldnt tell from the photo.

No! That is a typical sign of no oil, and from the looks of it was run quite a while with very little oil until it just wouldnt go any further. Im afraid you are going to find more off the same in the cylinder and piston deep lines in cylinder and piston.

I would pick the Honda Foreman they have a reputation of being the best. I dont have one and never have had one only because they hold their value so well i would never pay that much for a used ATV that i really dont know its abuse level. I generally buy the ones that need saving. Buying new i would not have a second thought, Honda all the way.

Good advise!

Yes That rocker looks badly worn and the other doesnt look that great either. Getting the broken bolt out can be difficult keep wet with penetrating oil if you can get vice griips on it turn it back and forth short strokes to see if it will loosen you may have to add a little heat that will help.

I understand not sure of the right size, but it sound plausible, i have a flexible ruler that i use just for such nonsense like this.

Good diagnosis! It could be either but im guessing stuck or binding rollers on the clutch assembly not letting it release completely.

Doing a great job ,almost got it ready, good work, another one saved from the junk yard. I would still fix the choke plunger you will need it on a cold engine. Use a combination of PB Blaster and carb cleaner and soak it down really good it will come out.

Was not familiar with that kit, good reasearch finding that. Glad it worked for you. Thanks for the info.

Which rebuild kit did you end up going with or did you use OEM parts?

You can definitely do a rebuild, i probably wouldnt take it to a mechanic because of its age you might put more in it than its worth. I would hope the lower end is ok no burned main bearings or crank. You wont know that until you get the cylinder off and see if it turns freely, but even so you can split the case and put in new bearings. Thats all jumping the gun a little until you know whats going on. Learn that from compression test., just keep oiling the cylinder and turning gently for a while

Sounds like you may have several things going on here. You are not getting power to the starter which indicates an electrical issue. I would be concerned it had no fluids in it. If he ran it out of oil or coolant the engine may have seized although you got it freed up, that doesnt necessarily mean no damage was done. That shouldnt have anything to do with no power to the starter unless it overheated to the point that it took out relays. Does it have spark? I think what i would do at this point is keep working it with marvel mystery oil down the cylinder untill you get it freed up where its not so hard to turn, and it may not free up. If you do get it freed up where it turns over easily do a compression test to see if the rings have been damaged.

They are sometimes tough i guess i have done it so long i know just where to press and how hard. How is the rebuild going? Any problems.

Has anyone used either of these tires and whats your evaluation good, bad or other.

If the thread is stripped you can try a tap the same size as the correct spark plug thread to try to get it to cut threads good enough to hold the plug, as a last resort you can get a heliocoil kit to create new threads. I prefer trying the tap even if the threads are partially gone there should be enough left to hold the plug and go down far enough to seal.

Thanks for clarifying, i must have missed that.

Nice, i like the old SA revolvers. I thought i recognized it but i cant remember the make.

Yes most peoples would, and i expect battery replacements would be a few thousand every 5 years. It is coming like a freight train, batterys are becoming so efficient it will be here before we know it.

Hard to believe a Kymco is pulling all that weight, i guess the powered trailer wheels are doing it, how do you plan to get power to the trailer wheels.

So the plug is attached to the harness in the frame and the loose wires are connected to the dash assembly, hard to follow in your description. Are the wire colors the same. Im assuming you want to cut out the plug and attach the wires directly. It may work if you know which wires goes where, but not sure how you could be sure of that or if the dash is even correct for that model. I think i would try to find the correct dash with the correct plug and even then if its not for exactly the same year and model may not work. There are so many electrical things going on there that change from model to model and year to year. Thats the answer that will most be more likely to work the simplest. I dont always do things the simplest way, i would not cut out the plug but maybe see if i could figure out the wiring with multiple wiring diagrams but that is my curiosity taking over and i cant really describe how to do that, its a lot of trial and error.

Nice collection, the M1 is a great old gun. What is the single action revolver with the ivory grips.

Not sure if this is the type shifter you have not sure of your yesr. If it is you need to take the cable loose, or you may try adjusting it first, if no luck remove the cable, take the mechanism out, there is a small ball that gets corroded and sometimes wont let the shifter move correctly. That is the first place i would look.