Gwbarm

What he said! Glad to have you back Mech 👍

I second Power Sports Nation, very good company.

I have seen some that are very well built, the biggest problem is finding parts and you are right nobody wants to work on them because its a hassel getting parts and they dont want to fool with it. They should do fine if you treat them right, dont know what kind of work you are doing with them but did notice one had a chain which is more for speed than hard work.

I think the Warn is my favorite, but i think the Badlands are very good , would not have a problem getting one of those.

Good! I have those fancy brake bleeding contraptions and i usually end up doing it the old way , i feel more secure doing it that way, and its what im used to.

I would stick a wire down the port or blow through it ti make sure its not clogged.

The crank case vent is located below the air filter, it is the metal tube that runs from the air box down to the crank case at a 45 degree angle. Im not sure if the model im remembering is exactly your model but it should be close. The engine smoke could be from an exhaust leak or something else , may need to look at that closer.

It does sound like you are building pressure down there, i would expect a little but not that much, check to see if your vent line is plugged.

A Constant Velocity (CV) carburetor works by using engine vacuum to control the opening of a throttle slide, which regulates the air-fuel mixture entering the engine. It has a diaphram attached to the slide instead of a cable.

I think i would wait on pulling anything until we are sure what is causing it. Could you post a video of it running so we can see how much and color of smoke its putting out.

So there is excessive oil getting in the cylinder or the oil ring is not doing its job, the only job the oil ring has is to wipe the excess oil from the cylinder, synthetic oil makes this job harder, i have had engines start burning oil after switching to synthetic, so it is possible the ring is not springing out like it should. Do you have any oil pooling in your air box, and what does the plug look like tan or black. What i would do, unless it is smoking excessively, as long as it is running good and no noises, i would run it and see if it gets better or worse.

Sounds like the carb air intake is clogged i would take the carb off clean it good soak everything with carb cleaner blow through all the passages and put it in ultrasonic cleaner for a while and see if that helps, also check the air intake hose to make sure its not clogged.

It is possible the pickup coil could be bad, you can check that by unplugging the stator from the wiring harness and check the resistance not sure of the values for your bike or wire colors but it will be listed in your manual.

It sounds like you have done almost everything. It does sound like it s running rich or not getting good air flow to the box, i would check that out try adjusting the carb check the needle position or even try leaning out the carb a bit. I would also be curious if the compression is in specs. Im sure as much as you have done you have probably already tried all this, thats all i can think of right now.

Im sorry to hear you are having trouble with one so new. As technology is changing so quickly these problems are becoming harder to diagnose. There are so many relays sensors electronic components that can heat up causing these problems then go back to normal when they cool. Do you have any error codes or display warnings or used a code reader to see if any were saved. My first thought would be an electrical componet heating up causing it to stall, but it could also be low fuel pressure if the stalling occurs as you increase speed, if it is very consistant stalling at a set speed you could be loosing spark. Not much help, many things could be causing this, you have done the most obvious things that could cause this. More information might help, does it just quit or studder pop or backfire before stalling.

The 64 PSI stated in the manual is what you expect to see when testing the compression, there is a decompression valve attached to the cam shaft to release compression for ease of starting. It sounds like this is maybe not working. 64 PSI is not even enough for an engine to run. From what i saw on your compression guage i would actually be glad to see that, it means your compression ring is working perfectly. The one thing that might come into play is if the oil ring is malfunctioning letting too much oil into the cylinder which would also cuase high compression along with carbon builup on the piston as your guage instructions stated. That would explain the smoking. The correct pressure i might like to see on a 500 is between 160 to 170, you are not far from that. I would try this, with the plug out squirt a little carb cleaner down the hole, crank the engine over to blow most of that out, just to clean oil out of the cylinder. Then run your compression check again and see what you get. I would not tear into the engine just yet your compression is fine, good to see that, also means your valves are working as they should.

That explains it a lot better, i was thinking you may have just got it running for the first time after sitting for years. So you have had it for a while and only run it every few months. That would not cause it to start smoking, what can happen upon initial startup after sitting for a few months is smoking from the valve guide seals but that generally goes away with the first minute of running. If it is not going away could be bad seals. So we will see from the compression check and go from there. When you check compression be sure to have the throttle open.

In #11 you said before it wasnt smoking at what point did it start smoking. Did anything happen before it started smoking ? It does sound like its been ridden hard and previous owner or owners didnt care much about the machine probably used the wrong tool to adjust the clutch and stripped it out, might have taken the plates off to replace the u joints and didnt bother putting them back on. I have seen many in this shape, in fact i usually but them in this condition because i like bringing them back to life. The milege is not excessive i have seen these with over 15000 miles on them but they were well cared for. No carbon on the plug is good what color is it brown black light tan. What are you running for oil brand and viscocity. As Jen said you can borrow from autozone for free put up deposite and get it back when you return the tool. I just buy mine around 20.00 on Amazon. Not quite sure good as my Snap-On but work very well. I dont know how long its been running or sitting but its possible a ring could be stuck and will probably come back after you run it for a while, if its been sitting the more you run it the better it will get. I think i would just run it for a while if its running good no noises and good power. You can also put a little Marvel Mystery oil in the gas to help if it does have a stuck ring, but you can determine this after the compression test.

Hondas are tough engines i was avoiding going there because i very rarely see one with a roached engine, but not knowing the history or abuse level it could be possible. Have you done a compression check, i would do one, see what the readings are then put some oil in the cylinder not a lot maybe a couple of tablespoons, do another compression check, if the compression goes up the rings are bad. It could also be smoking through the valve guide seals, it could be a combination. How many miles are showing on it.

Thanks for sharing! Looks like a fun trip.

It could very well be the clutch, but i would expect more noise if it was the clutch. The small hesitation sounds like an occasional miss but that should not make it increase engine speed, thats sounds a bit like it is inconsistant fuel supply the leaner running would cause the increase in speed. You said you cleaned the carb, find any problems or just dirty. I may look at that again to make sure nothing got back in there, sometimes there are small particles in old lines that get reintroduced into the carb.

The only quads i have seen with a manual clutch are the sport quads for high speed and racing quads. I have not worked on any new ones so im not sure if they work the same as the older semi automatics. The semi auromatic with manual shift have been around for decades. Just push the foot petal to shift has an automatic centrifical clutch. As. the engine speeds up the centrifical clutch plates move out to grab the drum and you move, then shift to another gear. Not quite as simplistic as the automatics, but give you more control in rocky terrain. Surprized that new ones still have a foot shift i thought most had electric shift. Footshift must be for backup if the electric shift fails.

The last one i bought had a snorkle on it, i was also concerned it might have been abused had to make sure it ran before i bought it, it did run but not very good, bought it anyway, had to replace the carb it had an aftermarket on it and the previous owner had drilled out the jets. Took me a minute or 2 to find a good OEM to rebuild and put on it now runs perfectly.

Thats who i use mostly. I also use Rocky Mountain ATV and Partzilla occasionally, i never go to the dealer parts are more expensive there. I use Amazon for aftermarket parts usually when they have been discontinued OEM parts. Only use Ebay for used unobtanium parts only because it takes longer and Amazon has an easier return policy.

That new with that few miles you should not be having any problems with anything. I think with no codes registering your engine is running as is was from the factory. It sounds to me this is maybe a design flaw but i might be tempted to contact the manufacturer and see what they have to say. Interesting warning i guess no aftermarket exhaust on this one. These days you never know, if you tamper with the exhaust , the bike may email the manufacturer. I say this jokingly but my new car emailed me the other day to tell me i left the window down, didnt even know it could do that.