Gwbarm

👍. Glad to have you, inheritances are always fun.

Kind of the same senario, the only problem i have is deciding which one to use. So i just decide which one i havent started in a while and use it. Unless i am in a hurry and then i use the one that has a good charged battery.

I have used their brakes and calipers, they fit very well, just like OEM, and so far have worked perfectly.

I have never read anything about doing the amour all either. Its just something i have done for 30 + years. I do a lot of restorations on numerous different kind of vehicles and this works for me. If the plstics are painted and you are using harsh chemicals to get the paint off i also use it to help the plastics come back from that. It is time consuming thats why i start it as soon as i get the plastics off and continue for weeks while im working on other stuff.

Finally sit down with enough glasses and concentration to view the service manual page. The description for reinstallation is better than most manuals. Im sure you have tried a multitude of times to get it. From what i see you hook the spring into the case rotate the assembly clockwise while seating it into its position and continue rotating clockwise until the punch mark is facing up. You might have to try it several times before it seats into the correct position, and i know that its not as easy as it looks in the manual. The spring looks ok to me , it does need to be offset a bit to hook onto the case and rotate it back to its correct position. Maybe not much help but its hard to evaluate properly with my hands on it.

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Yeah, typical manual, install in reverse order, that never seems to work well for me.

There were some aftermarket CDI that claim to fit yours on Amazon but i didnt check the number of wires. According to you schematic what does the seventh wire do, it may just be a ground and the aftermarket CDI grounds differently.

I did find this description on a 3 wheeler site may help. Further assistance: Line up all dots, make sure return spring is in place, use grease to hold a thrust washer on the back, if it has one. You have to tip the shaft on an angle to get it in it's bore and behind the plate it hides behind (hope you can find that by yourself) Tipping it allows you to get the spring ahead of that catch and then the shaft all the way in, then the kicker dots will be at 12:00. That thrust washer may now be in the gearbox if it's a 250SX or ES. Have a ball............

Did a great job with the heat, i have never tried that , i was afraid i might burn through, i guess it takes practice. What i did with mine was take all the plastics off. I set up a table in the back yard with the plastics on it. I washed all the dirt off and let them dry. Them sprayed them down with armour all it will suck it up fairly quickly for the first few days, I did this multiple times a day over a 2 week period, the color started coming back. After that i just kept it wet with the protectant walk by and it be dry spray it down again. After it stayed wet for a day and i was sure the moisture level was back in the plastic, i wet sanded with all grits up to 1000 spend more time with 220 to get out imperfections. After that i went over it all with boiled lindseed oil. Worked well. If you have a lot of broken pieces may not be worth the time but your front piece looked good.

Thanks for the tip. I will take a look.

This thing looks good, i see very little rust. Looks better than most that follow me home. This will be a nice project, built like a tank. Plastics will usually come around with patience, if they are not all broken up. I didnt know they were aftermarket plastics available i will have to take a look im still looking for some for one of my projects, thanks for the tip.

Comparing the spring to the Babbitts diagram it does look bent, but if you look at the spring itself, it does not, it seems to be made that way. I am wondering if it doent hook into the piece that is off set from the case. Not sure of that i looked up a shop manual from 85-86 and it does show a spring more similar to yours. Still couldnt exactly see where it hooks into.

I think they are fine machines, i myself like the older ones, they were built strong tough and reliable. Wont take much to get it going i bet. The memories you will make with your son getting it going will be priceless. Family and all It would have been worth 20 dollars to me to see his face when i handed him the key . Good luck with it keep us informed.

Thats funny! $20 he should have give him 20 to haul it away.

It does sound like the engine or clutch plates might be stuck, i would put some PB Blaster and Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plug hole and let it sit overnight, if you can get to the crank nut try turning it a little at a time each way and see if it breaks loose.

Can you roll it around or are the wheels locked

They are very helpful especially if you are suspicious there may be missing parts.

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

I generally like to jack the wheels up, with both wheels off the ground so i can turn them by hand and see whats turning and not turning.

You are very welcome, glad i could help.

Good Job getting it going, i have also been using All Balls carb kits and fuels parts have been very impressed with them so far.

I agree with Mech here! Nothing better than an OEM carb. The original is a nice litlle carb fairly simple and straight forward. i would take the original all apart inspect good for any abnormalities, clean really well put back together with the new gaskets and see how it does.

Yeah, acting Groovy and YO tricks at the same time, very cool.