Gwbarm

Thanks for the update, my Weize in my Suzuki Eiger is 2 years old still going strong, the Mighty Max i got for the Big Bear is not doing so well.

It could be any of these for the 95 year depending on the sub model: 13200-19B84 CARBURETOR ASSY ~E.NO.102907Supersedes: 13200-19B80 (CARBURETOR ASSY) This part is currently unavailable. 13200-19B84 CARBURETOR ASSY E.NO.102908~Supersedes: 13200-19B81 (CARBURETOR ASSY) This part is currently unavailable. 13200-19B84 CARBURETOR ASSY MODEL PSupersedes: 13200-19B82 (CARBURETOR ASSY) This part is currently unavailable. 13200-19B93 CARBURETOR ASSY MODEL R/S; INCLUDES ITEM(S) 1 - 51Supersedes: 13200-19B90 (CARBURETOR AS*

I see no markings on the carb what so ever that tells me it might be OEM except the box and i wouldnt trust that.

They typicaly came with a Mikuni, cant remember the exact carb#. I would do an ebay search for used carb for 95 King Quad. Look at the photos closely to make sure it has Mikuni on the side or you will end up with another aftermarket.

if you get a hitch extension with about a 3 or 6 inch rise it should take care of your problem, but if you like welding you can fabricate exactly what you need.

Great work! Excellent installation, you covered all the problem points.

That is strange usually you see a little wetness from gas in the area it might be sucking air. Thanks for the update hopefully thats it.

For the 6mm bolts i would do 80 inch pds, but being cautious i would set it to half that make sure it clicks or beeps depending on the wrench you have then set it to the 80 and finish up. I couldnt find a service manual to see what they recommend but 80-90 in pds is pretty standard for that size bolt.

That would be ft pounds if it is an 8mm bolt a little less if it is 6mm but be careful i snapped one off on mine it had an 8mm head but m6 threads and i was using a torque wrench that was really to large and didnt click on the low setting, it should have not sure why it didnt. So i got an inch pd one just for low torque settings, just thought i would relay that info dont want that to happen to you and it shouldnt have happened to me i did everything right, will never buy another harbor freight one. In inch pd s it would be between 60 and 80 depending on what size bolt you have, but start with half that and make sure it clicks and go up from there.

Great glad you got it out, i think the torque for those case bolts is low maybe 8 or 10 ft pds.

Did you check your float level. Sorry i was sure that was it. I will see if i can find a carb diagram and take a look i dont see polaris that often especially one that old.

Your still out doing fun stuff, age is only a number, good photos thanks for sharing.

Pictures do help sometimes you will notice things in photos you didnt see when looking at it. For example see the little bit of green corrosion on the wire where the insulation is gone, that didnt just happen that wire was corroded before this happened the insulation may have been gone may have even been stripped back it doesnt really look fresh. Now the shiny part does that is where it melted through the tape and grounded out. Still got to see whats under that other mass of tape.

No it shouldnt , if any is there it will work its way out.

Sounds good glad you got it running.

Found the wire its not even burned into, it is the Br/L brown and blue goes to the main switch in the on position from there to the main fuse, turns to R/W and continues to the CDI. That explains why it was blowing fuses when switch turned on , not doing that now but still buzzing at solenoid. Not much damage really shouldnt be causing a problem, once i removed it off the exhaust. Got to dig deeper. Although there are some very suspect areas. To be honest the whole bike is a suspect area, but it runs so good and pulls like a buffalo, although probably the slowest quad i have ever ridden. It does need a new harness but not available and i will not buy a used one, been there done that. I suspect what happened i was doing a lot of sharp turning to back up and hook up my boat, and must have snapped the wire holder loose from their hold down which alowed the wire to fall on the exhaust. I know this is probably boring to most. I only post to bring you along on the journey of troubleshooting wiring so it might help others in the future.

There is one here in section 14 Bayou 4x4 Electrics.pdf

There should be one here! SM-1989-2006 Kawasaki Bayou 300 Repair Manual.pdf

Not normal, i would replace the needle and clean the seat good doesnt make sense why it only does it at idle unless its just using enough gas to keep the needle moving and not seating back correctly, when you are riding its using enough gas to not overflow and when stopped it seals once enough gas fills the bowl.

Do you have a good battery in it, needs that to power everything to spark. So are you saying its sparking all the time and when you push the start button it doesnt spark. I would check out the CDI connections and get a manual to chase down wiring problems, a lot of differnt circuits are involved in the starting procedure.

Yes that is a Bear if its the one im thinking about, basically the whole front end has to come off to find all the mounting points and some are hidden. Why did you have to pull the tank generally the groumets start leaking and you have to replace those.

Thanks for the words of encouragement!

Working on the Big Bear again today, for the first time when i hit the start button smoke came out from under the front of the engine, looking closer could not really tell where it came from. Reached my hand under there and sure enough the wiring harness was laying on the exhaust manifold so i moved it and the starter turned over the engine. Sure i had found it, tried again and never turned over the engine again just clicking like before. It was so deep under there i could not get to where i could see anything. Kept trying wiggled the wires nothing but buzzing soloenoid. Decided i had had about enough of this, not having fun, its got to be fun and rewarding or not worth the effort, time to take everything back off. Took the tank of just 8 bolts, they didnt want that thing going anywhere. I could see a lot better but couldnt really see where it had burned through and really needed to see the whole layout. Not like i hadnt seen it before, i put it all together from a box o parts, but many machines have crossed my path since i did this one. You can see the main harness in the middle of the photo and then it branches off and goes over the exhaust i can see where it touched but no exposed wire. So now i need to unwrap it all and see which wires are damaged, just looking looks fine hopefully it will be obvious once unwrapped.

When you rebuilt the engine if you did not mess with the timing chain and sprocket you should still be in time unless it was off initially. You can just reset the valve clearances with the T in the window instead of the F. Not a big deal, but if you set the timing gear on the cam with the F in the window instead of the T you will need to go back in and fix that. On the 500 cam chain does not have to be removed to put in pistons and rings.

You have a great machine there definately worth the effort. I will do a little reasearch and see what i can come up with, anything else you can relay as to what happened when it stopped running backfire, stumble, idling bad, engine racing.