Gwbarm

Good you got the washer, it important, i had kind of the same thing happen with my eiger restore, but the washer i needed was on back order and i had to wait months to get it.

Glad you got it figured out , good luck!

This may be what you need. The whole electric system

In my area they usually sell for between 7000 and 8500 depending on condition.

Thats different, i havent seen one arranged quite like that. I even pulled up an exploded parts diagram and didnt see anywhere it hooks to, but it did show some sort of pressure relief valve in there but it didnt look like a hose should attach to it.

I zoomed in and do see an electric starter, so you will need to rig up a battery with some custom wiring, and yeah i would try to find a motorcycle front fork .

The wires at your green plug are coming from the staator, it could be for changing battery and hooking up to CDI if it has one, cant really see much from the photos. Does it have a starter or kick start. If it has a magneto it may run by just giving it gas,some of those smaller engines worked that way and the wiring was just for charging battery and lights. but i didnt see a coil. Thats necessary.

There is a starter cutouut relay next to the battery, a little black box, that would keep the starter from working if it was bad. You might check that.

I havent worked on a Lakota but it should be similar to others, most that i have seen route into the aiir box. You might look around there and see if there are any vacant slots for it to hook into.

I know the 4th through the 8th digit tell specifics, but i never could figure out how to break their code, so i just used one of the online vin # searches to find the specifics, but a better option. would be to call or contact yamaha it would be more accurate.

The 10th digit of the Vin# indicates the year.

I get hard to find manuals from https://www.manualslib.com.

Sometimes when you put on a new carb the throttle cable might need adjusting, check to make sure the throttle plate is closing all the way. The mixture screw should be about 2 turns out. You might want to check your valve clearances to make sure they are correct.

Its possible that your choke plunger could be stuck in the bore, if not stuck completely just kind of sticky pulling the cable back. I would try taking it loose from the carb to see if its working smoothly. You can see here mine was actually stuck took me a minute to get it out, cleaned it up good and no more problems.

Welcome! I think you are at the right place, lots of friendly people willing to help. I always like hearing about restoration projects. Good luck and keep us informed as to how its progressing.

I finally found the airbox inlet hose at a price i was willing to pay, i have found plenty of used ones which i dont mind buying even with the grease and mud still on it, but not for 60 or 70 dollars. I found this new one, looks like it has been sitting on a shelffor 20 years but it was new in original packaging, so i got it for 40. You can see the whitish residue from sitting in packaging for a while. I dont use Ebay a lot, only for unobtanium parts, and when i do i have a system i follow. I know what im willing to pay before i look and if i dont find anything in that price range, i keep looking, if i find something i think is really good i will up my anny a little, i dont want to cheat anyone want to pay what its worth. This part he had listed for 75.00 i put it in my cart willing to pay the 75 , and forgot about it , a few weeks later he sent me an offer for 40. It was his offer so i accepted it. I made one out of radiator hose and has been working fine for a while, hose was smaller and i was a little concerned it might not be getting proper air flow at high revs. The hose was a little smaller. The new one fit better and now has a place to hold the vent lines that were just flopping around. Not a very exciting read but thought i would just throw this in since things are a little slow right now.

Mech you are right it is CVT. I guess when i hear hard shifting i think of actually manual shifting. Still i would change the oil and check the CVT system for proper operation , and definately idle speed, like Mech suggested.

I think Mobile-1 is one of the best out there, i have been using it in my cars since the 90s with great results, havent used in in ATV because it doesnt meet the specs listed in the manual. Glad to hear its wokjing for you with no issues, i was always cautious because of clutch slippage. I will try it on my next oil change.

I think first i would try adjusting the clutch and see if that helps, and if the oil hasnt been changed in a while might try that, sometimes oil get contaminated and looses its viscosity.

I have also used these, been perfect so far

👍

Great information, thanks for sharing. 😳

I would check the old one for proper placement, if you have photos of your teardown, or the old part, strange the replacement part didnt have a line up mark.

Thats good, well not good, but better than something stripped. Good luck getting it fixed.

CDI wise. I generally try to determine if all the other systems are working correctly to determine if the CDI is bad. I always check my resistances are in spec, which you have already done. I check to make sure CDI has voltage coming in with a good ground. I also check to make sure the pulser coil, probably the green/white wire, and anti kickback coil probably Blue/Yellow wire, are putting out voltage, your manual should tell you what that voltage should be. Im guessing, i havent worked on one this old in a while, not up on your wire colors. I do that using an analogue meter with a needle, the needle is more sensitive than digital meter to small voltage spikes, and you can see the needle move. I also check to make sure the stop switch and ignition switch are working as they should. Them check to coil wire to make sure you have continuity. If all these tests pass i replace the CDI. Aftermarket replacements are tricky because the wire colors may not be the same as OEM. Not a perfect system of diagnosis, but thats what i do.