Gwbarm

There should be a vent line coming off the transfer case, but if you can stick your finger in the hole and touch fluid you are ok.

I agree with Dave, trace the black wire and you will probably find your problem. Probably shorting out.

Oh! I have on of those bought it for trips many years ago, mine never kept drinks very cold but better than nothing. I would usually just put some ice in there, i like really cold drinks, just below freezing. Hopefully they have improved them over the past 25 years.

A liitle behind the times, im not sure what a car refrigerator is.

The starter soloenoid should have a 4 wire plug and the large battery and starter wire, not sure which black wire you are referring to.

There should be 2 plugs a drain plug(lower) and a fill plug(upper), take the top plug out(fill plug) fill it until it just runs out the hole put the plug back in.

Interesting, i like to do that also, especially if you find one out in the woods abandoned just to see how old the markers are. I found one next to a creek bank once all the stones were early 1800s lot of history there.

Thats an amazing amount of miles on an ATV. Even with regular maintanence you very rarely hear of one going that many miles. Not that familiar with the 450 engine who made that one.

Nice rig! Good looking cat.

You may have worn teeth on the starter or bypass gear i would check that the starter bolts are good and tight if so pull the starter and check the condition of the gear.

I suspect it probably would not fit , the 366 is a Kymco engine and the 400 is a Suzuki engine. Even though the engine specs are close to the same i think the chances of a Suzuki top end fitting a Kymco engine to very very slim. Could be wrong, never tried it.

Switch could be bad but it sounds like a ground issue.

You just did! Welcome!

Yes! Look under latest forum topics.

It still sounds like a carb issue or some sort of fuel delivery problem to me, some are stubborn and takes several tries blowing through all the tiny orifices also be sure to remove the emulsion tube those tiny holes can only be cleaned with it out of the carb. You have replaced everything else electronic, might check for good ground and maybe do a compression test used rarely could have a valve sticking.

I got the last tire mounted on the rim it was a breeze the duckhead upgrade worked flawlessly, i didnt even have to use tire irons, just pushed it around, tire went right on. It fit the Harbour freight machine perfectly. Forgot to get a photo of it in action. I used Yamaha tire mounting lube it was the smallest amount i could find i didnt need a whole bucket or gallon jug. It worked good, after it dries its a little sticky but thats a good thing especially on this last rim i worked on. Got 20 pds of air in it and hasnt lost any yet, might be OK. It took about 30 to pop the bead. R Rim did get scratched a little before i got the Duckhead adjusted properly, the 2 bolts that hold it on will scratch paint off if you dont have it in the right position. Paint booth was kind of a joke it was windy and rainy out when i sprayed so i stuck it in this old cabinet to keep the wind down. I know this post has been rathar boring and eventless for most of you but thought it might help if anyone wants to try it. I only did it because i needed to really clean up and paint the rims. Checked with the local dealer and they only charge 20 per tire, very cheap, i wouldnt do it for 20 a tire, so it wasnt about the money, but for about the same price i now have the equipment to do it. I have 8 more to do, but for now they will have to wait, a few more issues to work out on this one first.

I have done it many times never had a problem.

I was going to do the front brakes while wheels were off but i could tell the rotors had been replaced and the pads had plenty of pad left and they were working good so didnt. Working on the last rim its not good i think it sat with flat tire for a long time before i got it, may have to replace it bit i will get the rust off and see if it works first. Got it fairly cleaned up and in my paint booth. Hopefully tire will seal.

Well! Its been a minute or two, been working on the front wheels and rims, they fought me quite heavily. I used soap i used carwash i used PB Blaster i used Yamaha tire lube spray, even poured boiling water on it nothing would break the bead. I then resorted to more unconventional methods. That didnt work either. This didnt break it i knew i was in trouble. Ready to give up i tried one other thing. No go, it wasnt about the money now, they were coming off regardless. Ordered a different type of bead breaker you turn one nut to tighten it down and another to push the bead off. Before it arrived, just for grinns and giggles i decided to try the Harbour freight bead breaker one last time, and they both popped off, i guess my unconventional methods loosened it enough that i could push it off with the conventional one. Tires came off easily now that i have learned all the tricks i am just about finished. Water in this tire also. Now for more cleanup, bigger job than i anticipated. Not pretty but it should cut down the rust a bit. Engine enamel.

I have never tied it but it is so instantaneous either not be very bright or not see it at all. Simpson with needle will pick it up. I just use a craftsman about the size of a deck of cards. All my good meters are digital been meaning to pick up a peak voltage adapter but so rarely need it havent spent the money.

Very nice tunnel, perfect name for it, looks like a night time teenager hangout.

You dont always show voltage when checking on a digital meter unless you have a peak voltage adapter. To check pickup coil and anti kickback coil i generally use an anologue meter the sweep hand is more sensative and the voltage spike is so fast if you blink you will miss it.

You have been bust and really done your homework. From what i can gather from your post, a lot to take in, i dont think you can make it right with your existing CDI box. Im assuming with the CDI wires all cut by someone else, he has already tried that. Its possible you may be able to get spark from it, but the CDI box also controls other things such as timing and is hooked in with other safety features in the electrical system. Im just hoping you caan get it back right with the correct CDI but if all the wires are chopped with correct harness plugs missing you may need another harness. If it is as nice as you say i would want to get it back to as close to factory as possible. Im not that up on Polaris wire colors for wiring but i have tried to do what you are doing before and it never comes works out perfectly. It may run but can never really get full performance out of it.

Been cleaning up some of the paint overspray on the inside of the rim, sealing surface and inside in good shape. Installed new valve stems, Amazons choice, but they dont seem as robust as the old ones, hope they dont leak. Iim reaady for tireR Rim ready for tire, so here we go! The lower bead pushed right on with rim and tire all lubed up. The outer bead not so much, I pulled tugged pryed with 3 24 in prybars couldnt get it to stretch on. I then realized i was not able to compress the tire enough with my hand for both beads to fall down into the low area and also pry at the same time. Its really a 2 man job, but im just one old guy so i had to figure that out. Once i got that sorted it went right on. Clamps worked very well. You can see in the photo where i messed up the paint on the rim, even though its on the inside, im still not happy. I will fix that. Before i do another, i will get this upgrade kit for my tire machine, i think it will make things easier. Remember i said i bought this thing against my better judgement, but im having fun so definately worth the minimal investment. This was a great idea a real rim saver, i think the duckhead is plastic so wont hurt the rim if it doent break, but even so you only have to replace the duckhead. I have 6 more to do maybe 10 if replace all the tires on all my quads. Oh man, that sounds disturbing. I must be a glutton for punishment, i would still rathar do them myself at my own pace than take them to the dealer and hurry up and wait to pay them money.

Im trying to figure out what might have happened. What i have so far is you pulled your mower with it and it broke something, but it sounds like you have fire at the coil, engine turns over it just wont start, correct. With the check engine light flashing its a sensor is probably keeping it from starting, is it the shift actuator that broke.