Gwbarm

Sorry i couldnt see your video just got a black screen with a pointer and a line through it, maybe i have a setting wrong, i havent been having this problem. I think my first question would be which carb did you put on. Regardless, you might be able to adjust it out, without seeing the video, im guess it may be running lean, you can try adjusting the mixture with the adjusting screw, first turn it all the way in and see how many turns it is out, and then start adjusting from there, keeping in mind your original setting. If that doesnt work you can check against you old one to see if the jetting is the same, but that might not matter if its an aftermarket carb, the fuel and air jets have to match up, so could be different on aftermarket.

Yes the timing hole is rathar difficult, a bolt comes out so you can see the timing mark down through the bolt hole, a little small, would have been better if it was a larger hole to look down in. I was looking at your photo i see the T, i would have expected to see an F not far from the T but didnt see one on the flywheel, I do know with the flywheel removed you can see a small line next to the crank shaft for timing, but that for people who are going deeper into the engine than you are.

They are fairly specialized bolts 8mm head on 6mm bolt, had to replace some, most i found had a 10mm head on 6mm bolt, ended up getting them from the dealer, good yours arent missing or broken.

I had forgotten that havent polished a shoe in years, but the Kiwi was the best shoe polish growing up and im sure they still sell it just never buy it.

I agree completely and have more than expressed my opinion on OEM carbs, but i also have been very impressed with the quality of the chinese carbs, i dont agree with the application data that they fit numerous bikes for numerous years but they do work. Example: I bought my Mikuni from a mikuni dealer on Ebay the carb i got was only produced for 1 years for my bike, but it was the first year of the run and was changed for the next year slightly, i would not have know this had i not talked to the dealer. I was very impressed with the service provided by this company. I have aa test carb on a bike right now that is running good now, i am running it for a year and see how it holds up compared to Mikuni or Kei Hin. So far it is doing well maybe running a little leaner than it should, but i can adjust that out on this carb. I also have had many that could not be adjusted out.

That sounds reasonable, for every inch of extra tire height you get about 1/2 inch more ground clearance, it will be taller which will make the machine easier to roll, but since you have installed the lift kit and spacers that should give it a wider footprint and be OK.

I have had good luck with Caltric parts as well, but i havent used one of their carbs.

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I second the power steering as a must have feature.

The website says they have been in business since 2009 didnt say anything about where the engines come from. I would be careful buying it without knowing more about the company and if parts are readily available.

Thaanks for sharing i very rarely look at new ones. They are very nice, just looking i kind of agree with you on the King Quad styling.

Never heard of them .Thanks for sharing, they look very nice. Interesting company they make many different rides, UTV,ATV,Mortorcycles, Go Carts, made in USA Dallas/Fortworth Area. https://www.massimomotor.com

That would be nice if it was just a partially shorted kill switch, well not nice, but better than chasing other options around.

Yeah i figured you had done that, but just thought i would mention it, the 2 turns out sound right , but i have had to adjust some i have worked on to 2.5 to 3 turns out to get it right. You may be OK with that. Back to the noisy top end, if these are known to have premature cam wear i would do as Mech suggested and try setting the valve clearance. There could also be some cam chain noise you are hearing, what type of sound it it rattling or a thud, or click click.

Has this problem been previlant since you bought it or is it a new development.

You have cleaned the carburetor good so we know thats good now, just one thing i might mention, there is a jet down in a hole thats easy to miss when taking apart sometimes they are hard to get out, you might check that. The other thing is the mixture adjustment not the idle speed, it is in the front of carb on the bottom, sometimes there is a plug you have to take out to get to the adjusting screw. You might have done all this already, just thought i would mention it because it does still sound like fuel delivery. You could also try a new plug and check to make sure its got a good blue spark. Check all ignition wiring to make sure not corroded or loose. I couldnt see the video! I know it get frustrating at times, but too early to give up, we are here to help.

Good! That worked probably a combination of carb and air filter.

I never oil my filters no particular reason, i guess so if i see them oily im having some engine blow by. , i do oil 2 stroke filters, they get oily anyway. I like the pliers it took years to get that amount of patina, priceless. What oil are you going to use, i think they are all good, just curious as to what other members are using.

I think thats pretty standard procedure for foam filters with metal support, there is a special spray oil for them.

That definately needed some attention you should run better with a new filter on, did you find any other obvious problems with the carb.

I second rebuilding your original carb, i usually buy the all balls kit it comes with new screws, of course you can buy OEM jets and parts individually at a greater expense. The screws sometimes get very tight usually from dried varnish around the threads i would spray them good with carb cleaner let them set for a while and then spray them down with PB Blaster. I have had to get many out with pliers, i usually use the smallest needle nose vice grips but channel lock work just fine. I have never tried impact driver im sure it works, i was just always afraid it might break the carb, that pot metal does get a tad brittle with age.

That almost sounds like the float level is too high or the needle is not completely shutting off the fuel flow. I would check all those things when you take it apart. It shouldnt be leaking at the bowl gasket so pull the gasket out carefully clean the surfaces good and reseat it. I have had trouble with the carb drain leaking even after i replaced the o ring they would still leak a bit, i might have to reseat it several times to stop the leak, so check that seal out good also. Just some thoughts.

I use mostly for work also, dont care for the mud or see how much mud i can get on myself or the quad, i guess as iv gotten older i think, if i go through that mud it will be fun, but then i will be wet and muddy the rest of the day and when i get home i will have to clean all that mud off the quad. I do like riding through the woods, it so relaxing, and i do like riding to the creek getting off, fish for a while, generally on my own land i like the solitude of being the only one in the woods.

I use a screwdriver in the hole and turn slowly to tell when im at top dead center with a finger over the hole to tell when im on the compression stroke, but timing marks are good too if you can see them while turning over the engine.

It seems if it was overflowing at the float bowl it should leak more at idle than higher speeds, as you go faster the level in the float bowl goes down and should not be coming over the side.