Gwbarm

I would agree I’m no pro welder myself and structural integrity would also be my concern plus that takes time also. That’s why I said if was mine I would pull the engine, but you also want it safe for your customers , so I would just take the time and pull the engine,it shouldn’t be too bad .

I totally agree, oil pan needs to be replaced. I know JB weld is a standard cheap fix but i have not had good luck with it. If it was mine i would pull the engine and replace the oil pan, but since it is a rental unit i might be tempted to go with the easier option.

Agreed, i never did find the exact manual for mine either , it was close enough that i could do wire tracing and little things, but was not exact, for yours with the higher end electronics it could be difficult, i hope you find the right manual.

Sometimes aftermarket parts dont fit exactly right, i think i would take the new starter out put the old back in and try to pull start it and see if the noise is still there when running. The only thing i can think of that might be happening is if the new starter shaft is touching part of the engine thats moving causing the squeal. Starter shaft should not bee moving once the engine starts. When out compare the old with the new and see if they are the same.

Glad to see you are getting it sorted out. Hate to see a good machine wither away from neglect. In my book its not even that old and it is toward the end of the Big Bear run. I have only seen a few of the 250s plenty of 350s and 400s around.

I have replaced a lot of starters with aftermarket, never had one do that, i would send it back and buy a replacement from another company.

Yeah i learned that one the hard way myself, glad you got it figured out.

Thats great you got it fixed, a lot of times its just a simple adjustments, just have to find it, glad it was this time. Still doesnt explain the metal shavings in the oil filter, but i would just ride it and listen for other odd sounds and go from there. Good job!

Good! I like those 2wheel drive ones so light and easy to handle, fun to ride. I would jack the rear end up to proceed with the diagnosis, then you can turn it by hand in all the gears and get a good feel of what its doing. Evan start it to get the revs up so you can better pin point the location of the noise. I hope its not too bad.

Is this a 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive

I have noticed a difference between the aftermarket choke plunger and the OEM plunger so if an aftermarket carb has been installed the new plunger that comes with the carb needs to be installed along with it.

Sorry i must have missed the making noise part, correct, clutch slip shouldnt be noisy.

More than likely the clutch is worn and needs replacing.

The plunger should be out to choke, it is more of an enricher more than a true choke.

Yeah splitting the cases is always troublesome, things dont go back as easily as they came apart. I would rack my brain and study the diagrams and see if i could come up with what i missed. Dont get discouraged im sure its something simple and the trans is shifting good thats a good sign. When i run into something like this and im not having fun anymore i just have to step back and let it brew for a few days then get back on it. I know you will figure it out. Nice machine definately worth your time and effort.

Since you got it in parts you dont know how far the previous owner had it taken apart and how much was put back together or left out. My only suggestion would be get a service manual so you can see if all the parts are where they are supposed to be with none missing.

Thats good your transmission is working properly, it sounds like you have figured out the problem, im not sure why that is happening, cant really tell anything from the photos. It sounds like something is too tight in there and not lined up properly.

That does sound like the linkage is either not in the right position or not engaging the drum properly, inspect both drum and linkage for damage.

What you have is probably fine as long as its an ATV oil, i generally just use Yamalube 10w40 mineral oil for mine just because thats whats recommended.

Good work on getting the carburetor fixed and running good. The clutch could be slipping have you tried adjusting with the adjusting screw.

When you pull up on the shifter does it engage the linkage and move the shift drum.

That’s good it no in the trans. Check the linkage connection to the shift drum it could be one of the engagement pins is missing or the linkage is not in correct position on the drum to turn it.not sure on yours but some have springs that hold them in place that take missing

Sounds like the linkage is not engaging fully, did you put all that back together or was it alredy together.

It could b e spark, not advancing properly, but it sounds like its sucking in too much air causing a lean mixture, as you increase the speed of the engine, and as you go higher with speed, more fuel going in, it seems to level out a bit , i would check to make sure the manifold gasket has a good seal.

Got the carb all torn down in my last post, while im trying to source some parts i decided to install an aftermarket carb i had on hand. Cranked right up and idled a little slow but i upped the idle a bit and idled good, so i have no manifold or connection leaks. IMG_4409.mov Not quite as good a throttle response as OEM, you might have heard it stumble a bit on accelaration, thats generally what i get with aftermarket carbs, but will work for now. I also installed the rear handle brake cover, never thought too much about it until i was working on my other one that had the cover in place, when i removed it to adjust the brakes everything looked new under there, so they do work to keep rust and corrosion down to a minimum