Gwbarm

The cheapest i have seen has been about 279.00 a set of 4 on amazon, may be cheaper for the 220 i was looking at 25s.

Glad to hear you got it going coil is an easy fix hope this one lasts longer than the last one, never tried using parts from aftermarket carb didn’t really trust that they were exact enough for OEM carb , but it worked for you, good work!

That’s the way the ones I have seen work you have to push it out with your foot on it kick to start and it springs back out of your way while riding

Thanks!

Thats a hard call, according to JD power the value range is from 1600-2200, but when you see one for sale its between 3000 and 5000 and you dont really know if it actually sold for that, yours looks good, so that is a plus, but has a lot wrong with it. I would estimate if it runs good shifts good, even with the carb problem, you should be able to get ,with everything wrong, between 1200 and 1500. I f you fix everything i think around 3500. Just my opinion from what i see, nobody will pay much more than that for a quad that needs a lot of work.

If the coil got hot enough to melt the insulation off i am surprized it is still functional.

Good I was hoping that would be all it was

Got it fixed, doesnt match the other one very well, it does screw in, which is fairly amazing that i drilled the tiny old one out without buggering the threads, but it will do for now, i will keep looking for the correct screw.

Yeah probably an over kill for size its very short and i think the ones on the aftermarket carbs are probably the 2.8 that you mentioned, didnt check them but they were quite a bit smaller. I just need to look in my rogue screw bin and see what i can find.

It was actually a phillips or JIS not sure which, but its not going to be too bad to find, just checked it with my thread gauge, its a standard 4mm just need to get one with a recessed head and cut it down to size.

Could be electrical connect disturbed by putting carb in and out, but i suspect the new aftermarket is too lean, never had one do as you describe, usually they just stumble a little on accelaeration and then catch up, and always idle perfectly. The question i might have is did it do this before replacing carb, or why was carb replaced.

Finally got around to finishing up the original Kei Hin carb on the Eiger. Rehash what i have done, Got the screw drilled out got the throttle plate out, it was really stuck in there, cleaned it up, put the throttle plate back in, works good now it was just really gummed up, it was down around the shaft and wouldnt let the plate completely close, and wouldnt cleanout with carb cleaner or ultrasonic. The only problem is i drilled the screw out, was going to replace it with one of the aftermarket carb plate screws but they were a different size and the shaft from the aftermarket is different, the screw is not listed as a replacement part. Oh joy now i have to figure out what size it is and try to devise one that will fit.

You are welcome! Glad you got it going.

For small changes in altitude, carburetors will compensate without any modifications. For larger altitude changes, carburetor jetting adjustments may be needed. A rough estimate is one to two jet size reduction for every 1,000-foot elevation increase. This may not apply to you if you are going back and forth in altitude, if you have running problems in high altitude i would just adjust mixture to get more air there is less oxygen in higher elevation. Just remember how much adjustment you made so you can set it back.

I couldnt read the diagram very wellI, but from your stator i would guess the 3 yellow wires are for charging, green and blue are for pickup and anti kickback coils. Not sure about the brown, they usually go for lights or accessories.

XY Powersports, a China-based manufacturer of side-by-sides, has closed its U.S. distributorship in Loveland, Ohio, Thats a tough one, not a very well known brand, i would suggest looking on Ebay there are some parts for them there, other than that maybe check their website to see if they will ship to you from china.

I have been using a lot of aaftermarket parts also and i havent haad a problem with any so far, i do try to stay with OEM carbs if possible the aftermarket ones work OK but i think you get a little better performance from OEM. but brake parts suspension partts and eleectrical parts all seem to be good.

That sounds exactly what mine is doing I remember your post about the hand shifter thought it was a good idea because of this problem.

You got it for a very good price, especially since it runs. Hopefully the new parts you ordered got the fuel problem sorted out.

I understand completely, im working on 2 and havent been able to touch either one in a couple of weeks, seems like there is always something more pressing to do.

So yours will just go in reverse without turning the switch. I always turn my reverse knob switch but have never tried it without turning it so it may not be doing anything either. Last time i rode it i had trouble with the neutral light not coming on, maybe im just not getting it to neutral, but it will roll like its in neutral, neutral has always been hard to find, pull up too hard and it goes to 1st just pull up gently to find neutral,. I think whatever is happeninng might be related.

Thanks for the info

Good thought, clutch plunger could be sluggish when its that cold.

I havent used loctite , but thats a great idea. Thanks for the tip.

Cold air is thicker than hot air, so it takes a little longer for things to work properly. The fix would be to adjust the carb mixture for colder air. I dont think there is a problem it is just factory set for a certain temp range.