Gwbarm

Seriously, this is probably my last one, running out of space, and for some odd reason they are getting harder to haul home and push around than they used to be. Plus i need to get back to my motorcycles.

I think the hose you are referring to is the hose that hooks to the lower air intake hose: if just left dangling it can suck unfiltered air. Fuel filter is inside the tank attached to the petcock, pull the petcock to clean it.See the grommett on the upper intake hose the vent hoses from final drive hang out there.

I would change oil and filter , check front and rear diff fluid, inspect bike undercarriage for any obvious problems, check for loose suspension bolts. Check the spark plug to see how it running light tan is optimal, black is flooding, and shiny black is oil burning. Check for carbon buildup on the plug, replace if necessary. Check valve adjustment.

You should not have to remove the carb to make adjustments, there is a screw underneath the carb, turn it while its running to fine tune the adjustment, it might be a little tight and you may have to devise something to adjust it, i would start with the screw 1 1/2 turns out and adjust until your engine is running the fastest, and smoothest them you can adjust the idle screw on the venturi, that adjusts how deep the slide goes into down. You can also move the needle up or down a notch if you need to by unscrewing the top piece and pulling the slide out.

I have had the same trouble you are describing with aftermarket carbs, they are too lean and seem to stumble right above idle, once you go a little further with throttle they smooth out some, but dont seem to have the same power as OEM. Im sure the double filter is not helping that much either.

If cleaning the carb fixed the high low idle, i would check the fuel flow to the carb and make sure it is getting good flow and maybe the float height. If it ran good for a few days and then all of a sudden not so good, it may not be charging and the battery voltage has dropped.

It is good oil, i have read mixed reviews about using it in wet clutch applications. The article i read recommended the Rotella T6, but i did use the t4 to clean up a water soaked engine and i liked it, and cheap at Wal Mart, had a good feel to it, but i ended up putting the OEM oil in it as the final oil.

I tried doing that it didnt work out so good for me. I think i probably didnt get even heat on the big area and it was not uniform, kind of splotchy. I have been trying to figure out how to get a large even heat area hot enough, bigger than a torch or heat gun.

Your right ,i like big boy toys, and if i thought for a second, that the one i posted for sale was really selling for 600 it would already be at my house, but it was perfect, not really what i look for, and its not about the money, restoring them is what i like to do, it keeps my ageing mind active, i have as much fun doing that as i do riding them.

Thank! Havent ussed Babbitts, i will take a look

Yeah, i know she already told me "what does a grown a** man need with three 4 wheelers".

Not much going on with my project waiting on parts and as i was contemplating getting it back together, and finishing, it hit me, im going to have to do this all over again. I have another Eiger it actually runs and drives, but when i got it the previous owner told me it didnt run very well, the guy that had it before him had drilled out the jets, aftermarket carb running too lean, i know why he did it , but he missed by a quite a bit, it was flooding so badly and gas was leaking everywhere, so i ordered another aftermarket carb for it, put it on and it ran better, not perfect but better, i wish i would have went ahead then and bought a OEM and rebuilt it, but live and learn, , i was blaming not top notch performance on the aftermarket carb, but it occured to me, that the magnets are probably loose just like this one was, and if they are not loose they will be. So i will go ahead and replace them while its fresh on my mind. I think the magnet issue was probably the downfall of this model.

Yeah, and bad videos, it hurts my eyes to watch them.

They must be the best, been making them since 91, never had the opportunity to work on one.

Great Video! I used to watch his videos all the time when he was at Iowa Tech, Shane produced some of best informative how to videos on motorcycle repair i have ever seen. Takes his time explains and shows everything perfectly.

The Gunk is good stuff, i should have mentioned this earlier, i dont use it that much, because its generally not needed, i only use it when the gas has been in there so long it has turned to tar, and use it on a bike that has been sitting for 20 + years. Generally for a carb that has been in use i just pull all the jets out squirt some carb cleaner in the hole make sure the jet passages are clear and that usually takes care of it, sometimes i may put in an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green or even dish detergent just to jar anything loose and clean up insides a little and take care of trash that may not be visible.

I see it does say master gasket, i havent found that one yet, thanks for the link.

No not that one, its under the float bowl next to the main jet, you may already have it out, i was just saying sometimes it not obvious. This is not your carb but it should be similar, down in the hole right between the 2 obvious jets, and you can see the one the video was referring to, my welch plug has already been removed.

I couldn't find Loctite Master Gasket , is that the same as Loctite 518 gasket maker

I have used the paint bucket gunk carb cleaner, probably the best, very caustic, there is a jet down in a hole make sure you get that out, they are usually very stuck, make sure you remove all the rubber parts. What I do with the throttle hook up is leave it sticking out of the cleaner at the top of the bucket.

I think I would take the switch apart and clean with contact cleaner, and check wires for good connections ,also check for continuity between the wire in the switch and connector.

From the manual posted it said the bleed screw was at the top of the cylinder head.

I was looking around on Craigs List and this came up: When it comes to Craigs List if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is, most of the others I have seen in my area for sale have been 2500 +.

Looks like JB weld on the body just to the left of that CVK

It came right out this morning, that Air Hammer is a great tool for getting out stubborn screws and bolts, and fitted with the Eastwood attachment it works well , the handle makes it nice, you can put some real torque on it with that.