Gwbarm

All great ideas, im pulling for you, good luck!

After reading the specs from NRAs manual, I thought it was going to be closely wired to the 400 because the specs were about the same, but the CDI is definitely different.

I was kind of afraid you might not be able to get a screwdriver back in there, that's why I suggested the pry bar or tire tool they have like a 30 degree angle on their tip I thought that might, and I stress might get in there, and even if you have to heat it and bend it to an 75 or 90 degree you might be able to get it in there. I still rooting for you not splitting the case, when you get the nut off, you can get in there with a dremmell tool with a small flat diamond wheel, it has to be the wheel so you can come into the recessed area straight, so you can't do it with a diamond bit. Then you can get into the damaged threads and straighten them out , hopefully. You do have to have a steady hand and good eyes to do this, although I have done it many times, and I have neither. A lot of people use thread files and that might work good, I have not had much luck with them but it might be because I always buy cheap ones.

You might want to take a look anyway, poor photos,

I did find another repair manual but it wasn't for the 350UB, and looking at the wiring diagram the plugs were not the same as your. 99 must be a strange one, maybe an odd year before the 400. I did find an owners manual for the UB I think it was maybe UBW looked through it and no wiring diagram. May just have to old school this one, check all your coil resistances to make sure they are in spec, check that you have continuity on all your wire, make sure you have 12 volts to CDI and good ground at CDI, check to make sure all the stator coils for ignition are putting out voltage. Check start stop and key switch for correct operation. Make sure you have 12 v and continuity to ignition coil. I know all this has been talked about already I was just going through my check list when I don't have spark. Im sure you have already checked most of these things. So when all of these things are in spec, then it's time to replace the CDI, but before I did that I would pull the side cover and make sure pulser coil is in the right position and not loose, with no problems there no trash or metal flakes obstructing it, that's a test you can only run with your eyes.

That is a problem, I would try to get a pry bar and pull the nut towards you, at the same time unscrewing the nut with the ratchet hopefully it will catch and come on off. If you can't get a pry bar in there , maybe you can improvise something to get a little outward pressure on the nut while trying to take it off.

I would try adjusting the clutch and see if that helps.

This is the CDI wiring on the 2000 model

Just reviewing the photos the CDI has 6 wires in one plug and 4 in the other.

Those are the same coil specs for the 2000 and it is a 6 wire CDI.

Things are going to smoothly, for one of my projects, so I have to stir the pot a little. I decided to go back and look at the cracked side cover again, I hadn't really looked it over closely since I got it off. It pretty bad, I can probably JB well it and make it work, but im not sure I want to do that. It is really clean Looking on the inside the crack circles the bearing area I can see that getting worse. Looking from the outside the crack is all the way through I can see light through it Plus the sealing surface was damaged a bit doesnt show up in the photo as bad as it really is. So back to eBay, I tried Facebook first, I can't really find the parts I need there, may different in NZ, any way I found one looked good and straight, with all the bearings and stator, the only difference I saw was the stator plugs were black on his and white on mine, so who has the aftermarket stator, who knows. He wanted 69.00 and free shipping, so not bad, it's fairly heavy probably 20.00 + to ship. Most all other ones I looked at were stripped, case only, and going for 40.00. You just can't get 5 or 10 dollar used parts anymore. Still haven't figured which rotor to get , heard some complaints about magnets not being strong enough in aftermarket units. I can see that , the originals are strong, the aftermarket ones are under another piece of metal to keep them from coming off, so it makes sense they would be weaker. I may go with RMstator from Canada I have heard they are good.

Ebay is so much fun, im trying to figure out which flywheel to buy, I go to this one seller and he has ratings, I look at his rating and one rating is for the rmstator, another is for a different brand than he is selling and so on, so I figured this is not even truth fuii. So I go to another seller with ratings he has exactly to same ratings and comments that the other seller had, word for word, so one or the other just cut and pasted the rating that were bogus to start with to his page, that's why I only use eBay when nothing else works out.

I have bough Niche parts and have been very impressed with their quality, but mostly electrical parts, have not used any engine parts.

Every thing is looking good so far , just continuing cleaning things up a bit, got most of my parts ordered, I haven't ordered the rotor yet, still trying to decide, I do not want OEM if its still the one with external magnets, which it shows in the parts diagram, all of the aftermarket ones show internal magnets. Still looking around on Ebay for a descent case, found a couple but i haven't ordered one yet, not sure if I want to pay shipping for all the mud and rust corrosion and grease on them, plus they were expensive, but what did pop up while I was doing my search was an OEM carb, which I have been looking for at the right price. I needed one for this project and then I will have all OEM carbs back on all my bikes. It was listed for 15.00 I thought, but didn't look close enough , it was starting bid, I don't usually bid on stuff, to aggravating, but the seller had a small inventory and this was the only ATV part listed, I like buying from people like that, just trying to make a little extra by cleaning out the garage,so I put 40.00 on it, close to what I paid for the last one, not expecting to get it, most go for about 80.00+. Just forgot about it and ended up getting it for for 20.00. Curious to see how bad it is, I suspect it was just taken off and replaced and stuck back in the garage. Not much to look at but it is OEM. The only thing is she said it came off an Automatic mine is manual, I don't think that will make a difference, but it might be jetted slightly different, I will have to see. After I won the bid she messaged me and apologized how dirty it was and promised to clean it up before shipping. Nice gesture!

Not necessarily a mistake, crap just happens.

Just looking at your wiring it looks very similar to the 400 I have been working on, but you do have a few different color wires than I didn't have. The W/G and W/R did go to the pickup coil and you should have had some resistance there, your stator plug looked the same as the 400, pick up coil is attached to the rest of the stator.

It looks to be all there and in good shape, not abused like the ones that seem to follow me home, hopefully its an easy fix, appears to just need maintenance.

I wasn't sure it's the only one I have been able to find for the 350 I thought it would be easier to find than the 400.

It should look like this one.

Bayou is a nice bike small light and fun to ride.

Agreed, I have known so many people that were very sick from tick bites, took a year to get over it and still having trouble.

Welcome and good luck with your projects, always willing to help.

I don't recommend them either .

This is the only manual I could find not very impressed with the wiring diagram but it might help. You might have already seen this one. Key, Wire colors are different from what I quoted you on the 400 Sorry for the bad photos I couldn't get it to copy and paste from the manual.

Well finally got it off, im not real proud of it , I ground the end a little too much, I knew I went to far, I wasn't going to take it any farther, it still wouldn't come off, I was beginning to think I had a bad cog in an area I couldn't see, so I took a pry bar behind the dogs and with very little effort it came off. There must have been one little metal tag keeping it from coming off, now just waiting on parts. Im still trying to figure out what happened with the washer, even with the gear on backward it shouldn't have eat into the shaft if it was working correctly. Got the new gear in it was nicer than I thought from the photo on Ebay I thought it had some surface rust on the bushing, hoping it would clean up well when I got it, but no rust at all, what I thought was rust was brass on the bushing, which was completely gone on my old one, must have been some sort of plating. Trying to find some new washers that I can get quickly, found some just won't be here until the middle of July, I guess I can wait, still got a little polishing to do on the shaft.