Gwbarm

What year is it, what safety are you referring to.

Sounds like you are getting spark if it starts on starting fluid have you cleaned the carb

I decided the exhaust needed a little attention while it was all apart, very rusty, surprisingly i got them all off except 1, the one closest to the exhaust outlet that holds a heat shield in place, the head on the bolt was not even 10mm anymore, I didn't push it because if that one breaks its the only one holding that part of the heat shield in place and I probably would not be able to get the stud out. I would like to, just to clean the rust out, might keep trying but its there. Its always a challenge getting 25 year old exhaust bolts out. I tried cleaning it without taking it apart, but I could only imagine how much mud and rust was on the muffler, don't really want that to rust out. The 14mm that holds the muffler to the frame were stubborn and needed a little persuasion to come out, of course all the original metal was covered in rust, I will just get the rust off and repaint with high temperature paint.

Good point! My thoughts were you don't know what size they are even if you wanted to replace them

I was trying to recall that also does it have a reverse button on left brake lever like the other Hondas or a switch

The correct jet sizes for the 2000-2002 big bear was: 112.5 Main jet 17.5 Pilot Jet 70 Starter jet I took my aftermarket carb back apart and there was no markings on any of the jets

I got my no spark issue sorted out, got it running on the old aftermarket carb, but it didn't want to take throttle even after cleaned it, didnt really want to waste time on it, so I order a new one which is on its way, so not much to post here, but I wanted to start a new thread. I am stating to clean up the plastics thought I might as well do that while they are off, they were a mess tree sap, bird dropping, mold and what ever. Washed them good and got all off so I could see the oxidation , decided to wetsand with 600 grit waterproof sandpaper, and used Armour All instead of water. I figured it could put some of the moisture back in that was lost from sun exposure. Working fairly well I will keep going finer on the grit and see if it will polish

They also are a little longer , you can hold on to them easier.

I know this is an old thread, hate I missed it when it was going on, I wasn't a member yet. Just went through the whole thread excellent job of documenting every step. Great idea about the plastics, I had heard about the Min Wax idea before with stain to refinish a faded camouflage ATV. It really made the red more red. Excellent job and you did all of that in only 3 weeks. Looks brand new. What a friend!!

Excellent video, go pros really do a good job, beautiful countryside.

I would try rocking it back and forth while shifting to see if it comes out of reverse, if not under the right crankcase cover you will see the centrifugal clutch and the clutch basket, just to the lower left of the clutch basket is the shifter mechanism, if its stuck there you may have to apply a little, very little, force to unstick it, if its stubborn just keep working back and forth it might come free.

Yeah that's what I was thinking WD 40 or 2 stroke oil.

Thanks for the replyKP I have seen it before also but didn’t think anything about it because the carbs were in really bad shape, but this one seemed cleaner before, I wonder if it has something to do with the heat or soap I use in the ultrasonic cleaner, I don’t use really harsh chemicals unless the carb is really bad with dried varnish on the inside and I only used dish soap on this one

I think this thread is done, got my no spark issue solved with the help of Eugen, Mech, 5200 and everyone else that has responded. When I get my new carb in I will start a new thread to continue with the revival of this neglected beast. Im having fun, so I must be doing it right, no pressure just going at my own pace. Thanks again for all the support.

I took my old carb back off, kind of a mess, I just cleaned this last week in ultrasonic cleaner, cleaned the tank out, cleaned the petcock, and put on new hoses. Im not sure where this white powdery stuff came from. The only thing I can think of is I sprayed some silicon based lubricant in the bowl and around the movable parts, maybe the gas caused the lubricant to break down. It was Tri- Flo won't use that again. Waiting on new carb to arrive.

If you don't already have them you should get the feeler gauges that are bent at a slight angle on the end, they are a little easier to use. Recently got a set of those and I really like them.

If you smell rubber burning, I would say it is slipping a little, maybe not much or you would feel engine racing, if you have a service manual you can check that the lobes are in proper specs. I would think there would have to be lots of wear before you would feel bogging. If you haven't already you might want to adjust the valves if there was much wear they would be too tight.

Oh I forgot to mention unscrew the cable adjuster down at the carb and the cable will pull right out.

You have to pull the cable up and around and take out the brass keeper then the cable will pull out of the carb, you will have to push the spring loaded half moon tensioner to the right to get slack to do this. Needlenose pliers are a great help. ,

I totally agree with OEM parts being the better option, but I understand that you could sink 1000.00 in a hurry buying OEM engine parts, I always read all the reviews, it has a good rating ,I have used Niche stuff, I think they are one of the best aftermarket brands out there, but I have never used their engine parts. The only rating that disturbs me is one guy said they were .001 off, if I was doing this I would have everything ready before I ordered, get right on it and see if everything fits right so if there are problems you are within he return window. Are you having trouble with your recent purchase?

Float is either stuck or has a hole in it and sank, or the needle valve is stuck in open position.

I have heard it both ways, some guys say transmission fluid will work, others say no, only use Polaris hub oil. Trying to get it back up to factory I would probably just get the Polaris hub oil, not that much more money, and then you would feel better about it, but that's just me. I try to go with the recommended factory fluids when I know others will work fine.

I wondered about that I never did see the end of the cable in any of your photos. The photos I posted were from a yamaha. Im Sure Suzuki is the same.

That sounds good, you are almost there, that part is easy to loose, especially if you take it apart in the grass, made of brass can't find it with a magnet, ask me how I know.

I didn't know if you had the brass barrel installed , I had to take my carb back off so I took a couple of photos, hope it helps.