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Disconnected the plow yesterday on my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 and am getting ready to do some riding yesterday and the battery went weak, Starter cranked a few times but week. Put my trickle charger on that I bought and went to the garage today to start it up, but the starter is just spinning and not engaging. The solenoid is clicking. The pull start sucks and is hard to pull (never use it and need to look into that). Quick video of the starter spinning. Could it be the starter or the starter clutch one-way bearing? I guess I need to take the cover off to see what's going on.
2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 Starter Spinning.mp4
So few months ago I acquired a 01 Explorer 4x4 (think its a 350 but not sure)
Anyway the owner said it started reving very high, shut the key off and still kept running
until finally he shut off fuel and it finally died. During the run away he said the exhaust got
red hot and has melted plastics to prove it. Said some thing flew out the tail pipe, I kinda figured
it was the top of the piston. Anyway finally got around to looking at it (have a lot of other projects in the works)
and checked the compression, Shows about 40 psi. Can hear air coming out the carb while rotating the motor over.
Gonna pull it apart eventually, don't hear any noises or binding in the stroke, You think the piston came apart?
any horror stories of these and is it worth my effort and money? Don't really have any money in it yet. Thoughts? Az
By Dee Wilson
The short of it: I'm getting a single click when I hit the start, and nothing else.
The long: I'm a new owner to a 94 Timberwolf. I inherited it with the understanding that it needed a battery. It started without the battery when jumped, so I know it does work. I got the appropriate battery, charged it, and its reading 12.7V. Installed it, and all I'm getting is that click. Cleaned the carburetor today and reinstalled under someones advice, but still nothing. I'm gonna take the battery in to autozone to get it checked, and I was going to head to the spark plug next. But like I say, I'm new to this. Thanks for any and all advice.
I have a 1994 big bear and I am starting to have issues starting. I put in a new starter and selnoid as the at stopped starting with the electrical but will still start with the pull cord. Where and what now should I be looking at to check? If I turn key to on and the switch to on then hit the start button, the bike clicks and then nothing. Lights still work but no response to the starter. Stumped now. Any help would be greAt.
picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads.
have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first.
if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
any help appreciated! thank you.
i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.
so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
'96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.
So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.
Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.
Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?
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