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Exploiting a loop hole in the law, turn 4 wheeler into rev trike
for a long while I have been trying to get a real 4 wheeler street legal.
the problem is with the state laws, if it has 4 wheels, its a car and has mega more rules.
If it only has 3 wheels, its a trike and can be made from cobbled junk parts held together with duct tape and they will plate it
I wonder if anyone would have insight on changing a 4 wheeler over to a single rear wheel?
[ I can't afford some $40-60,000 canam or super bike modded into a car, rev trike kit ]
I want something I can truly ride year round on and off road. Ive rode enough old Honda 3 wheelers that I know I do not want a traditional motorcycle trike. So the single wheel has to go out back.
i have a older honda 350 cc quad that seems to start and other days will not.spark seems to be gone and there when it does run.I checked newer coil odd a older yet Honda but no help and idea I going to find the serial number as forget the year but believe around 1995 to 1997 year besides that great quad but cant run it so great this way and need it for chores around the acreage. Any help would be great. Ive check all fuses as well as the fusable ling which was fine until I screwed with it now need to buy another as have it wired not so safe.I handy but now have copd which takes away the brain power some.Any help would sure be appreciated
I've had this machine for 2ish years, has ran great up until winter. Sometime during then, I managed to break the exhaust right before the muffler. The summer before it had a hard time idling, but we fixed it by cleaning the carb, and messing with idle. Near the end of last year, the only way for it to fire was the have full choke, and full throttle, and the engine bogged down and you had to keep on throttle for 25mins. Over winter, the throttle had dislocated, and I got it back in place. We got it running, and all was good. Spring came along, and now it doesn't start at all. A fluid is coming out of the exhaust, and I'm told it could be water from over winter. I checked the airbox, and the air filter isn't for this quad, it also is barely sucking air. There appears to be little to no compression, based on this. I'm pretty sure the engine is flooded, as the spark plug produces a spark, but is oxidized. I don't know how the previous owner treated it, or when it's last oil change was. A bolt on the engine has either oil or gas seeping through it,abd was loose. I tightened it and it consisted. The engine is basically positioned in the rear, and it needs a good clean, I don't have a pressure washer, so I can get the built on dirt off. any recommendations on how to get the beast started again?
By Cj Winds
I have a 2000 Polaris Xplorer with the 250 two stroke motor
It does not want to start with the electric start, the motor cranks fast, the battery is good, and there is good spark when cranking. The engine starts perfect when using the pull cord, it even starts if I pull the cord slowly and starts with one pull. The engine idles smoothly once started. My wife says she needs the electric start to work.
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I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
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