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By Denis Lanthier
I have a 2004 Yamaha Kodiak, which has taken me to many remote places and hauled lots of game. I still love it after 16 years.
Lately when I go to start it using the starter, sometimes it clicks and kills the power in the display. Lights don't work, nothing works and I end up having to unplug the battery, wait awhile, and replugging the battery ends up giving the power back. Using the winch will sometimes kill the power as well.
Battery is new, all fuses are ok, I'm at a loss. I can start it with the pull crank and it will work and so will the lights.
Any insights or advice would be appreciated!
Howdy y'all. Just bought myself a 2004? Yamaha 400 with electrical Gremlins aplenty. Runs good (after jumping the starter solenoid relay terminals with the helpfully included with the sale pliers) but no fan when my wife's 03 Kodiak 400 had fan and the starter button makes it to the starter solenoid but the ECU side isn't happy. This seems to be a lively forum with manual downloads being supported so hi.
Oh yah, and you can get two Kodiak 400s on a 5x8 trailer... I bought a nice 14' trailer as soon as possible after this.
By Jay Reddick
Hey guys, need some help with my 2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700 4x4. Was riding and it started smoking below the air box and then Caught fire. We got the fire put out quickly with a fire extinguisher. Many of the wires below the air box got damaged. I purchased a new wiring harness for the atv and replaced that as well as any other damaged cables or parts that burned up where the fire was. I also replaced the regulator, the ECU, and the starter solenoid. I also replaced the stater since some of the cables that went to the regulator were damaged. It acts like it will crank but it won’t turn over. The fuel pump initialized when I turn the key so it’s working. I’ve spend $1500 on parts and no luck yet. Any suggestions?
By Guy Churchward
I have a 2016 Yamaha Kodiak and find myself with a start issue.. I changed the battery so it’s not that.. here’s a video of me trying and then boost starting.. can anyone give me pointers as to a starter motor issue or fuse or wiring or whatever ?.. I find myself without a vehicle with a tow hitch for the 1st time in years so have a dead and stranded ATV to fix !
thanks in advance, suggestions welcome
New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be.
It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
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