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Hey folks, thanks for the add. I purchased a 2000 kodiak a few days ago. The seller claimed an electrical problem which he didnt care to investigate. I thought it was going to be easy...and initially i found a blown 10 amp ignition fuse, and a blown headlight fuse... changed them and tried to start, but when I turned the key to run, the N light came on for an instant and the fuse popped...I unplugged all other connections to the wiring harness I could find, kept the ignition harness hooked up and tried again...the fuse blew again...I then disconnected the outgoing harness from the CDI and this time the with the switch turned the neutral light comes on and I can enable the start switch and hit the starter button and the motor turns but does not actually start, i can also turn on the headlights and taillight in this configuration, however, when i hook up the out going side of the CDI, and turn the key, the fuse blows....HELP? any ideas to get her running? I have not removed the gas tank to look under it for frayed wires, but so far, no frayed wired. With the input side of the CDI plugged in, and all other wiring harnessed connected the starter will turn, but engine wont turn over. As soon as I plug in the outgoing (8 plug) harness into the CDI and turn the key, the fuse blows. Thanks! Gramps
So I bought a 2001 Quad Runner 250 for my son/wife. Sorry I run a Grizzly 660.
I’ve rode it many times with no issue.
My son’s first time out, I could always hear him but feeling he ran it red line in first gear a lot.
So this is what it was doing during/end of the 2-3 hour ride:
- halfway though noticed smoke (oil) coming from front of the motor sort of under exhaust manifold. Once back at the truck, it was really noticeable. Definitely oil burning off. I’m thinking from the top end maybe.
So quick inspection:
- No leaks or seepage of oil that I could see
- I pulled the plug and it’s black but not wet
- No blue/white smoke in exhaust
- seems to still ride fine
- Engine still has plenty of oil
But now that I’m looking at it back at the house - it’s a hard/won’t start when hot. It starts right up cold no problem but once it stalls when hot, have to let it sit for 10-15 before it will start again.
It wasn’t idling before that trip so I jacked up the idle a bit as well but I think that’s a carb clean/adjustment but...
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks for any help.
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got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price. one of which is a yamaha warrior. anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike? Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet. The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work. he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears. things I see: clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box. I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first. also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts. Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last). any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like. lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris
got a big bear I'm working on for a guy and it was flooding gas out into the air box, but still running. I pulled the carb and its beat up just like his other bike I worked on for him (the bayou 220). Its a weird carb tho: the throttle comes in at two locations. it has a plunger and a butterfly. Is this necessary and could I just switch to a butterfly carb? The problem with it is it has a broken float fork (the metal piece that holds the float pivot in place. I'm assuming it is causing the flooding. also the rest of the carb is well worn out and most of the screws are stripped telling me that it has been fiddled with too much by someone who didnt know what they were doing. Also, the oil temp light is turns when key is turned and then goes off after a second- dont know if thats supposed to happen or not.
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