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By Ed Zeppeli
I picked up this quad after the previous owner couldn't get it going.
The issue is that I can't get it to fire at idle or at all.
- replaced plug. Decent blue spark. Also tested with spark tester inline.
- rebuilt the carb. PO had already bypassed vacuum lines from petcock. There's fuel at the cylinder
- Checked compression with new gauge. reads 190 psi
- cleaned all contacts I could access.
- am currently jumping with car battery. Solenoid jumpered.
- checked cam timing at TDC and adjusted valve lash
- put gas directly into cylinder to see if it will fire at least momentarily
Motor turns over well. Plug gets wet.
Motor may fire once or twice but smokes through exhaust a bit as if it's trying to fire or combusting.
This leads me to suspect timing. As mentioned I checked the flywheel mark versus cam marks. Perhaps someone has been in there before because I can't find a 'T' on the flywheel but there is a very visible paint mark which aligns with TDC position on piston. Possibly a slipped flywheel/woodruff?
Is it possible that if it had seen previous repairs, that the timing could still be off? I'm reluctant to dig into the flywheel/stator area if there's something else I could have missed but all signs point me to that area. Would a bad CDI cause spark timing to be off?
Anywhere else to diagnose incorrect spark timing?
I've scoured these forums and elsewhere but I'm posting just in case there's something I've overlooked up until now.
Thanks very much for reading!
OK, Removed starter from right side pretty easily. Starter spinning well, good torque. Still have to remove left cover to get to gear.
I've looked at starters with gear in place for sale. Also see one way bearings. I don't have a diagram of the set up. Which or both?
By Brad Lawson
Hello all, I’m working on my sons 99 Yamaha Warrior 350. When I pulled the plastic cover off left side of engine, I can see oil leak at the seal. I pulled the bolt out and then the starter boss(I guess that’s what it’s called?) I can see that the boss doesn’t make contact with the seal. Is there a spacer of some type that slides on to the boss, to make contact with the seal? This seal is held in place with a plate with 3 screws in it. This boss slides into the bearing in the stator. I have been to parts websites and I don’t see what I’m needing. Maybe it’s just the wrong seal?
250 rwd timberwolf 1993
i checked the bolts and they are tight.
anyone have this issue and did they install new gasket with engine in-frame?
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Something I've noticed with the AWD on/off operation. When AWD switch is in the on position and the AWD light is on (trans engaged), turning the AWD switch off kills the engine. With trans in neutral, AWD light is off, turning switch off does not kill engine. Since I don't have the operators manual yet, I'm wondering if this is normal operation?
Problem: The ATV starts and runs at idle perfectly. But as soon as I open the throttle, the engine starts to slow down until it stops. On the attached video you can hear the sound of how it works: see video below
Prehistory: there is a Polaris Sportsman 500 1998, which for about 1.5 years stood in repair, including also replacing CDI with one taken from the same ATV. Finally, the vehicles were on wheels, traveled several kilometers and overheated - forgot to fill the antifreeze Came back home in small moves. The next trip started well, but after 10 km there was a feeling of a small drop in power (even as the vehicle got warm completely) but still drives. Next trip - the situation is repeated. The next test of ATV through time and a huge loss of power from the very beginning. The engine sneezes, does not want to go more than 5 mph.
What has been done: the carburetor has been replaced with a new one (inexpensive, $ 40), a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, the engine head has been removed, the piston is in good condition, valves were corrected - but the problem was definitely not in them.
Ignition control unit is suspected. Who faced similar? Please help in solving the problem.
Thanks in advance.
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