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By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
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By dbconn55
Hi guys I have a 2003 Arctic 250 4X4 it starts idles and runs great for about 10 min. then it spits and sputters and dies but it starts right up like nothing happened idles good till you give gas and it does it again let off the gas and it's idling great again this goes on for about 15 to 20 min. and then it takes off runs good all day like nothing was wrong.
I cleaned the carburetor it looked like a new one inside found a little gunk in one orifice, new air filter no crimped lines air line to tank good I did put a meter on the battery idling it said 16.5 V that's high I think would a voltage regulator cause this?
Suzuki shop wanted to sale me a stator for $556.00 but said it could be something else also thought I'd see what you guys say about it
Thanks
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By StolenATV
1987 Suzuki LT 80 and 2007 Honda CRF 50 dirt bike stolen out of my driveway on July 4th. Anyone with info that recovers them will get $400 no questions asked.
Thanks
The post Suzuki LT 80 Quad And Honda Dirt Bike appeared first on STOLEN 911.
View the full article
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By w_r_e
Just picked an '03 Bayou 300 2WD. It runs ok, needs a little help though. Maybe someone can answer some questions for me.
1. The choke "off" position is the lever all the way right, correct?
2. The choke seems mechanically... funky. It has a little valve clamp around the rubber boot where it goes into the carb, seems kind of janky, I don't think there's typically a valve clamp on that part? The engine seems like its running really rich, smoking a bit, so I wonder if I can just completely remove the choke cable to see if that's part of the issue? But I don't fully understand the choke needle setup. Is "choked" when the needle is being pushed in, or pulled out? Like it I chopped the cable just outside the rubber boot by the carb, would I be permanently choking it or permanently unchoking it.
3. I've read that I can tweak the air/fuel screw and maybe fix the rich mix. Where is that even located, and if it's behind a cap that I have to drill out... where is that?
Thanks for any tips
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By JacobSlabach
So yesterday I picked up a 07 polaris sportsman 800efi stealth edition for 3k. Will lead a pic ltr. In good shape. Here's what's wrong with it:
The rpm needle doesn't work just like my other sportsman... not too worried ab that.
The motor doesn't sound like it's running quite right and doesn't feel like it has much more power than my 500. I'm thinking it needs a tune up and some fresh oil.. but also it feels like it's running rich. It's a little buggy when you goose the throttle and sometimes farts when you let off (like I little backfire out the exhuast). I'm gonna check timing and valave clearence on the motor first but thinking of putting a tuner on it? Anybody got a suggestion? Mainly looking for more power.
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By Brad Leeson
What's going on party people? First, thank you for allowing me the opportunity to be here. I recently purchased a 2005 yrs 450 and have yet to run the bike at full throttle. The bike fires up, idles, seems like everything runs fine except a little popping when you let off the throttle or until you hit 5th gear. It runs strong; no bogging or sluggishness until you hit 4th gear and open it up. Then it begins to act like it's out of gas or the about to be out. I can pull over and sit for 5-10 min and it runs strong again until you open the throttle. I have the carb off the bike to clean and wrote down a list of factory and what I found installed. I also listed other key factors and hope someone can help and explain. I'm new to the scene and have no prior mechanical experience but my theory is worst case scenario I have to take it to the shop anyway so why not learn. I actually enjoy it. Lol. Thanks a million. Hope to get back on the trails soon.
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By Xyla Cat
View File Instructions for Upgrading 2004-2006 YFZ450 Oiling System
Instructions for Upgrading 2004-2006 YFZ450 Oiling System
Submitter Xyla Cat Submitted 08/25/2018 Category Yamaha ATV
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