Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

go2glamis

will 2008 yfz450 run with battery disconnected

Recommended Posts

i have gone through two brand new battery in two rides it starts and runs great then with no warning it just dies. the battery wont charge after. it shorts out and I have to replace it. my question is should the bike run with the battery disconnected. I have a new battery in now and changed the rectifier and when I take the cable loose it dies. is this normal

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Hey @go2glamis welcome to Quadcrazy. I would check your stator coil.   It could be over charging the system. Or not charging at all.   You need to see what voltage you have coming from the stator as well as do an ohms test on it.   The engine should run with the battery disconnected, the lights and accessories would not work properly and may shut the engine down if you were to turn them on due to a heavy draw but the engine should run with the battery disconnected. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you very much. Do you know where I would be able the find the procedure and specs to test that? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here a few pages from the manual. It’s not the same year but should be close enough if not the same.  

I would also start the bike up and put a tester on the battery and see how much voltage your getting at the battery.   As your checking rev the engine a little and see if it changes. Are you handy with an electrical tester ? 

 

 

2AC94B00-B50C-4A64-9391-9BBB3B1386FF.jpeg

68C80E39-A450-4690-A399-4B5167D3751D.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I actually tested it already It was staying at 12 to 12.5 then I changed the rectifier and now getting about 14 which is good but it stll dies when the the battery is disconnected so maybe the bike is running off the battery and not the stator

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


That Could be possable. Test the stator and see what you get and go from there.  Have you checked all the connections as well as your grounding from the battery to the frame? Was the regulator/rectifier an oem part or aftermarket? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Everything on it is stock except the pipe and I put an oem rectifier back on. Not a big fan of aftermarket stuff. But I will also check all my conections

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok thanks for all the help I well add to this when I get get all your suggestions tried out and it's fixed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely check all the connections and think about anything that could have happened like a smashed wire somehow, have you tried to jump start the bike with a car by chance ? That can cause problems internally with the rectifier and cdi as well as he stator. Over amperage kills that stuff easy.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Not a car but a charging system and only after the first time I had this issue with a brand new battery that failed

Ok I checked stator and it's only reading 0.150 so will replace and give an update when I get it installed 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wont it hurt the electrical on a bike to run it without the battery hooked up?  Thats what I've heard...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Just an update

I ordered an aftermarket stater cause it was cheaper (stupid me) I don't have good luck with aftermarket parts and it did not work so returning it and getting the stock one 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What brand did you get just curios. Reason I’m asking is I’ve ised one aftermarket brand and it worked great.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

QA brand from rocky Mountain they had the Ricky stator but I don't need the 100 watt and it was more then stock

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Caltrec. So far two years into it on my bear tracker and I beat the crap out of it. No problems. I’ve used them on other bikes with no problems. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK new stator is in i can disconnect battery now and the engine still runs so definitely the stator was bad. now i was hoping that would solve my other problems to but didn't.  i don't ride at night much but my headlights don't work and i can only start the bike with the clutch pulled in (wasn't this way new) the tail and brake light work. is there a fuse or relay for these? i changed the neutral sensor before but didn't help 

i can rebuild or troubleshoot almost any engine but am horrible at electrical     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as the starting the bike with the clutch pulled in thats normal. Most likely solved that with the neutral sensor.  You may have never knew it but that’s how it works.   As far as head lights that can be traced back to the power source.  Either a bad connection or fuse.  Pull the connections at the lights and test for voltage. There should be three wires on your headlight.  One is a ground two others are high and low beam.  Start there and check for power with the head light switch on obviously. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Dave Ayoub
      Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened. 
      Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left. 
      After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
      If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power. 
      I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
      does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
      when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing. 
       
      Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking? 
       


    • By dbconn55
      Hi guys I have a 2003 Arctic 250 4X4 it starts idles and runs great for about 10 min. then it spits and sputters and dies but it starts right up like nothing happened idles good till you give gas and it does it again let off the gas and it's idling great again this goes on for about 15 to 20 min. and then it takes off runs good all day like nothing was wrong.
      I cleaned the carburetor it looked like a new one inside found a little gunk in one orifice, new air filter no crimped lines air line to tank good I did put a meter on the battery idling it said 16.5 V that's high I think would a voltage regulator cause this?
      Suzuki shop wanted to sale me a stator for $556.00 but said it could be something else also thought I'd see what you guys say about it
      Thanks
    • By StolenATV
      1987 Suzuki LT 80 and 2007 Honda CRF 50 dirt bike stolen out of my driveway on July 4th. Anyone with info that recovers them will get $400 no questions asked.
      Thanks
      The post Suzuki LT 80 Quad And Honda Dirt Bike appeared first on STOLEN 911.
      View the full article
    • By w_r_e
      Just picked an '03 Bayou 300 2WD.  It runs ok, needs a little help though. Maybe someone can answer some questions for me.
      1. The choke "off" position is the lever all the way right, correct?
      2. The choke seems mechanically... funky. It has a little valve clamp around the rubber boot where it goes into the carb, seems kind of janky, I don't think there's typically a valve clamp on that part? The engine seems like its running really rich, smoking a bit, so I wonder if I can just completely remove the choke cable to see if that's part of the issue? But I don't fully understand the choke needle setup. Is "choked" when the needle is being pushed in, or pulled out? Like it I chopped the cable just outside the rubber boot by the carb, would I be permanently choking it or permanently unchoking it.
      3. I've read that I can tweak the air/fuel screw and maybe fix the rich mix. Where is that even located, and if it's behind a cap that I have to drill out... where is that?
      Thanks for any tips
    • By JacobSlabach
      So yesterday I picked up a 07 polaris sportsman 800efi stealth edition for 3k.  Will lead a pic ltr.  In good shape.  Here's what's wrong with it:
      The rpm needle doesn't work just like my other sportsman... not too worried ab that.
      The motor doesn't sound like it's running quite right and doesn't feel like it has much more power than my 500.  I'm thinking it needs a tune up and some fresh oil..  but also it feels like it's running rich.  It's a little buggy when you goose the throttle and sometimes farts when you let off (like I little backfire out the exhuast). I'm gonna check timing and valave clearence on the motor first but thinking of putting a tuner on it? Anybody got a suggestion?  Mainly looking for more power.
  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...