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By Chase Cook
I have a Yamaha 350 in at once to try to fire up but won't. It's getting gas fire air and it has a lot of compression but still struggles to start check the timing it's top dead center valves are good valves are adjusted everything's working but won't fire I put my hand over the carb suck in gas and it tries to but it makes a lot of black smoke. Also when I put my hand over do you carb and tried to start it there's black black nasty stuff in the gas. So I don't know if it's trying to burn too much or what it is the gas tank clean and it anything to do with the gas it's with it firing. Took the spark plug out and it's pure black. What is dried up black not nasty corroded wet looking. Need help to solve the issue
By colin james
View File 2006 Polaris Sawtooth 200 & Phoenix 200 Service Manual
This is the service manual for 2006 Polaris Sawtooth 200 & Phoenix 200 ATVs. Download all the chapters for the complete manual.
Submitter colin james Submitted 11/25/2018 Category Polaris ATV
Several months ago, I finally got around to fixing the bayou. Rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel selector switch, hoses and fuel filter, and she ran great. Only had 2 minor issues since then where, at higher speeds, it acted like it was choking out when I let off the throttle.
Lately I've noticed if I let it go for more than a week, it almost drains the battery dead trying to start. I initially thought battery, but after inspecting I found very little if not any fuel flow through the line until it starts and runs.
I'm a little baffled and don't have much time to mess with it as most my free time right now is spent on getting my rv up and ready for hunting season in the next 3 weeks. So any help on quick diagnosis checks would be helpful. Otherwise I'll just keep starting it every 3-4 days to keep things primed until I'm done hunting.
Oh, and another question on a different topic. Does anybody know what the mounting brackets on the front rack are for? I'm referring to the 2 angled metal tabs with threaded holes that are located on the left, near your knee when sitting on the quad?
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
By Colby Calk
I recently got a 98 warrior 350 that 'needed the carb adjusted' but the reality is it has no spark. I have a new spark plug, plug wire, ignition coil, battery, and cdi box. I checked continuity and took apart and inspected the starter/kill/light switch on the handle bar, and it all looks brand new and checked out. The key switch seems to be working properly, as when off, nothing works, but when switched on, lights and electric starter button work. It turns over fine, and as I just stated, all the lights work. I took all the plastics off and traced all the wires, and only one had a small cut in it, but it was only through the rubber sheathing, not the wire itself (the blue one coming from the stator). I cleaned some grounds, made sure both relays work, and still nothing. I pulled the stator cover and looked at the stator itself, and it looks great. No broken wires or connectors or anything. Still, no spark. I'm at a loss. Where do I go next? Any help is appreciated.
By Dra O
posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
-fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
-along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
-I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
-can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
-it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
-I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
-last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
-any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
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I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
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