Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Errol Bartholomew

2006 Yamaha Kodiak 450 4X4 Erratic Idle

Recommended Posts

Started my 2006 Yamaha Kodiak 450 up recently (March 2019) and it didn't seem to idle good; the idle was erratic.  I turned off the fuel and the engine eventually speeded up to where the Revere red light started flashing before it ran out of fuel.  I changed the spark plug and no change.  Bought a new carb and installed and still not change.  Starts good and runs great when driving but the idle sometimes doesn't come down to where I can shift and other times it goes so slow that it stops running.  I have stabilizer in the fuel and have started several time in  the winter to keep the battery charge without problem but now that has changed.  I have 5700 miles on it but have maintained it good and it has been kept in the garage since I bought it new.  I have really loved this atv.

Any ideas on what the problem could be?

I'm about ready to take it to the dealer for troubleshooting but at a $110/hour I'm trying to solve the problem myself.

Thanks for any help or experiences any of you have.

Errol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Any change if you adjust the choke? Is the throttle in good operation and not sticking?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would check the choke and see if the throttle is sticking..  then maybe is your bike running rich? (you said it sped up when gas supply was cut)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why would you change the carb and not just clean it and reinstall ? The carb you put on was it a factory carburetor or aftermarket? 

If the existing carburetor was just dirty due to crud buildup I would clean it up really well blow all orafices out and re install it.  

Set the air fuel screw and the idle to the proper setting and go from there.   

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

is it a slide throttle carb or a butterfly throttle carb?  I hate the slide throttle carbs- every one I've worked on has issues with idling...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I do appreciate all of the comments.  I finally had the intake and exhaust valve adjustments tested and the intake valve was was way out of tolerance and after that was corrected and a little tweaking of the carburetor the ATV runs super now.  The technician told me that the intake valve (which had never been adjusted - 5270 miles) was the primary problem.

Thanks again to all.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Dra O
      posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
      -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
      -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
      -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
      -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
      -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
      -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm  OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
      -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
      -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
    • By Randel1
      Hello, 
      I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 
    • By Scott Sirr
      I need to figure out how to clean/fix or replace my neutral switch assembly On my 2008 Yamaha big bear 400 as generally the neutral light doesn’t come on when it is in neutral. To get it to come on I have to wiggle the foot shifter and hold it in just the right spot.
      I have googled it and can’t find much on the 400’s. I can’t find a service manual online and the parts manual is super vague.
      I think it is in the right side engine cover area, but not certain. 
       Any help would be great. thanks
      Scott
    • By oxidized_black
      Clymer ATV Manual - Yamaha Raptor 700R
       
    • By Ajmboy
      Unfortunately I didn't notice some of the rust hitting the undercarriage of my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660, but saw it the other day when I was doing some maintenance, oil change, air filter, spark plug, etc. The left side footrest broke and that's causing the plastic to hit the front wheel. It broke right at the welds from too much rust. Looks to me like what I need is (looked this up on yamahapartshouse.com):
      YAMAHA FOOTREST BOARD 5KM-27481-10 Left side (broken)
      YAMAHA FOOTREST BOARD 5KM-27488-10-00 Right side (rusted and will probably break eventually)

       
      Does anyone have a less expensive source? I did see on ebay a couple of listings but it still comes out to @ $50 each, 
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Michael Aiken
      Where can I find a wiring diagram for my 2005 450 Kodiak. Thanks.
    • By J Printz
      i have a 2004 Yamaha Kodiak 450 and it is losing oil but does not smoke what is it
    • By Dimelol
      I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well. 
      So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got.  This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
      Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
      Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
      Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within the specified range.
      Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
      Reading was within specified range.
      Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F) 
      My reading was 0.3 Ω
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...