Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Jeff011366

2002 Polaris Sportsman 700 front and rear diff questions

Recommended Posts

Hello,

  Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....

 

  My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires....  Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?

  It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"

 

Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.

Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Sounds like the front diff needs help alright but the rear is normal - both axles are "locked up" together at all times. It really isn't a differential on the rear, usually called a gearcase btw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me, I did a little research today and learned the inner workings of the rear gearcase. I wasn't sure if I would clean this machine up and resell it, or invest time and money into making it a nice riding, reliable machine. I priced out the parts for the front gearcase, along with a couple U-joints, and bushings. for a few hundred dollars it should be a decent machine to keep around.

        Let me ask, when I rebuild the front gearcase would it be smart to invest in the output hubs the axles slide into? Do the spines wear out, or do you think it only needs the bearing, seals, and Sprague? I just want to make sure once I open it up I have all parts needed to put it back together. But at the same time I don't want to waste money on parts it doesn't "NEED"...….the machine has 4400 miles.

 

   Again, Thank you for your input......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If they're not leaking, just keep running them! The hubs run a small amount of ATF in them for lube.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


The prop shaft needed joints at both ends, and this machine is just abused to death...…..I don't believe it was EVER washed, so was it ever greased? I have the front gearbox apart on the bench currently. The bearings are a little loose...….and making noise. I built race cars and engines for 35 years.....so I understand what bearings should feel and sound like....these were READY. I will also put in a new set of axles to help take out some slack in the driveline.

  I took some of the back of the machine apart to access some things. The left rear hub is FLOPPING loose, and the rear prop shaft seems to float in the splines on BOTH ends...….. I'm sure it needs to float on one end.....but not sure about both ends floating. Big wobble to get prop shaft to center up and rotate on a axis...…. the previous owner just put in both rear joints, but no yokes. I'm thinking when I pull the rear gearbox out it's getting new yokes, along with all hub bearings...…

 

before I pull the back apart I need to put the front back together...…...or I might have to come on here to ask LOTS of questions. I have a coffee can of bolts now...…….every time the can gets full that means it's time to put something back together for me, or I will get too overwhelmed..

 

Thank you for the input, it's much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've noticed allot of play in my axles too. But I do believe there is supposed to be some to keep down binding. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Thehick344
      I have a 2001 650 quest that ran great. Shut it off, wont start. Got tinkering at a buddies, it ended up in a snowbank. Lost my train of thought since then.  I have a black, red, green  top with two plug in wires yellow and yellow and red I believe.. I have a new battery. Just dunno what to do. I tried hooking the wire coming up to the solenoid on the far side, then directly across I put the positive cable and it instantly started turning over without the button being pressed until I took the cable off.  The little black resistor box has also been eliminated.   Any help would be greatly appreciated.. 
    • By Rooftop777
      Can't figure out whats wrong, battery good, charging fine but speedometer needle flashing. I know my fuel sending unit is not working but atv was working well last year. Now it was blowing fuses. I did engine code check but none there. Gas gauge flashes and shows FUEL in capital letters. Need help as just cannot figure this out,
      I might pull the fuel pump out and put new float as likely saturated. Don't know if that would give me all these problems ??
      thanks
    • By Glen Hoerschgen
      Hey guys i have a 2002 yamaha wolverine that needs a new wire harness.  Does anyone have a clue where i can get one new or used. ive looked all over and cant find much on a 2002 model.  Any help will be greatly appreciated . thanks so much
       
    • By Brock Kincaid
      Ok so just picked up an 02 ds 650 and the guy said he couldn't get it to start. He had a shop put new shims in it and I had them checked and they were ok now things I've done is new plugs even though guy had just put new plugs in it.. got new carb 42mm just like the one that was on it.. bought new intake manifold because the one that was on it someone got way to tweaked out and ported the shit out of it excuse my language but yeah so installed new intake manifold and it just won't start like its not getting enough fuel.  Timing seems to be right it does fire every now and again but just barely.. did a compression test today and it was at 90psi.. i know thats low but don't know where I'm losing compression.. valves we at .06 and .07 when checked im lost ive tried everything I know and can't figure it out
    • By Chase Cook
      Have a 2001 polaris sportsman 500 4x4 atv and when I put coolant in the radiator it starts leaking from the exhaust. The valves are sealed but it stopped making compression. Do I need to just replace the head? I just rebuilt the hole top end and this is the only thing +valves that I have not replaced and was wondering if that is why it's not starting up. Need answers please.
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By bodon
      Anyone know what the fuse terminal marked UNSWITCH  does  .  Even with the key off it is causing a drain on my battery and I'm trying to figure out  what that terminal goes to.  It's a 10 amp fuse. If I pull it the "short" goes away.  Thanks in advance.
    • By Outkast7222
      Had a spark-plug break off, had to pull the head to get it extracted. Where the heck is the timing mark on the crank? Do I need to pull the stator or flywheel to find it? When I pulled the head I had the mark on the cam lined up pretty good but I cant remember if it was perfect and don't want to reassemble a tooth off and have to go back through the bear of pulling this thing back apart.
      Thanks guys!
    • By Chase Cook
      Hi I just got an Polaris sportsman 500 4x4 ATV the other day. I got it real cheap but I started to go into it because it didn't have compression so I bought a new piston and ring kit for it and installed it, but now when I try to start it all it does is shoot fire out the exhaust or the intake of the carburetor. And a timing is top dead center.;I think I can't really tell another way if it is or not. when I put it together I made sure to piston was on top and the cam lobes where facing down where are the cam sprocket is facing up. It has gas and spark. It did start a couple minutes ago but it didn't stay running and now it won't start. Do you think the valve need to be adjusted more to close better?I'm fixing to try that out and if that don't work what is the problem? Also I made sure everything was together good and right and change the oil and changed out the radiator fluid.
    • By Brian Sosebee

      I just rebuilt my 03 sportsman 400. Put everything back together added oil per the manual. Pinched off the oil tank vent line 2" away ran for 45 seconds then cut it off. Check oil level and it was still way high so I wasn't confident that it primed so I did it again. Checked again and it's the same. Remove the oil filter and it is dry. I did the procedure again and the same results.

      I'm worried to keep trying this as the only oil in the engine is what I used to lubricate the parts when reassembling the piston. The crankcase was drained as well.
      I Removed the oil tank and checked all the lines for obstructions and the screen filter and the vent hose and everything is clear. I even pulled a small vacuum on the oil tank while it was pulled off to make sure there were no leaks. The dipstick cap was on tight so I'm not sure why this thing is not priming.

      Anyone have any suggestions. I thought about pre-priming the oil lines from the oil tank to the crankcase to hopefully help the system prime. I'd like to be able to add some oil to the crankcase to so I wouldn't feel so bad about running the engine for another 60 seconds without oil. I dropped just a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole to help condition the sleeve right now.

      What do I do? Anyone had or heard of an oil pump failure on these. Btw oil pump is working fine before I did the top-end rebuild and the oil pump was not touched.

      Please help!!! Thanks all for any and all help.
    • By jay rear
      Hi im new to the site. I have a 99 sportsman 500. I has been sitting for about a year now. I bought a new battery for it the other day and now i dont have any power to anything but the winch. Any help would be great. I already cut the pouch and checked voltage on both sides of the circuit breaker. 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...