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Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was.
Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated.
Had a spark-plug break off, had to pull the head to get it extracted. Where the heck is the timing mark on the crank? Do I need to pull the stator or flywheel to find it? When I pulled the head I had the mark on the cam lined up pretty good but I cant remember if it was perfect and don't want to reassemble a tooth off and have to go back through the bear of pulling this thing back apart.
By Chase Cook
Hi I just got an Polaris sportsman 500 4x4 ATV the other day. I got it real cheap but I started to go into it because it didn't have compression so I bought a new piston and ring kit for it and installed it, but now when I try to start it all it does is shoot fire out the exhaust or the intake of the carburetor. And a timing is top dead center.;I think I can't really tell another way if it is or not. when I put it together I made sure to piston was on top and the cam lobes where facing down where are the cam sprocket is facing up. It has gas and spark. It did start a couple minutes ago but it didn't stay running and now it won't start. Do you think the valve need to be adjusted more to close better?I'm fixing to try that out and if that don't work what is the problem? Also I made sure everything was together good and right and change the oil and changed out the radiator fluid.
By Brian Sosebee
I just rebuilt my 03 sportsman 400. Put everything back together added oil per the manual. Pinched off the oil tank vent line 2" away ran for 45 seconds then cut it off. Check oil level and it was still way high so I wasn't confident that it primed so I did it again. Checked again and it's the same. Remove the oil filter and it is dry. I did the procedure again and the same results.
I'm worried to keep trying this as the only oil in the engine is what I used to lubricate the parts when reassembling the piston. The crankcase was drained as well.
I Removed the oil tank and checked all the lines for obstructions and the screen filter and the vent hose and everything is clear. I even pulled a small vacuum on the oil tank while it was pulled off to make sure there were no leaks. The dipstick cap was on tight so I'm not sure why this thing is not priming.
Anyone have any suggestions. I thought about pre-priming the oil lines from the oil tank to the crankcase to hopefully help the system prime. I'd like to be able to add some oil to the crankcase to so I wouldn't feel so bad about running the engine for another 60 seconds without oil. I dropped just a little bit of oil in the spark plug hole to help condition the sleeve right now.
What do I do? Anyone had or heard of an oil pump failure on these. Btw oil pump is working fine before I did the top-end rebuild and the oil pump was not touched.
Please help!!! Thanks all for any and all help.
Im new here, this is my first post and Im trying to figure out how evrything works on this site so I please let me know if Im doing anything wrong.
I have a couple Yamaha's but this post is in regards to my 02 Grizzly 660, I have an electrical draw somewhere that is taking my new battery down rather quickly. I have tried to locate any short by checking each circuit but was not able to locate it that way. Im installing a battery cut off switch which brings me to my first question, dont these switches usually go on the Negative terminal?
My next question is, can anyone tell me if this year and model has any history of electrical shorts that might help me locate the culprit? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Finally, Im looking forward to being a member of this site and hopefully helping others as well as learning some things myself, so greetings to all!
Best wishes to everyone!
So, I got this 07' Polaris Outlaw 90 in the shop to rebuild top end and transmission. Replaced all bearings and gears in the transmission. Replaced cylinder and piston with brand new parts. Put the engine back on the frame and fired it up. Started great, but had a taping sound in the lower crank case. pulled the flywheel cover off and found the flywheel was wobbling and hitting the stator. I then replaced the stator and flywheel with brand new parts. Timing is all set on the timing marks now, but when I turn it over it kicks back when it fires and ends up stripping the starter idler gear. I've replaced the starter gear once already and now have to replace it again. Is it possible that the timing marks on the flywheel are off or maybe this flywheel is not for this exact model? Thinking of advancing the timing to try it, but don't want to keep going through idler gears.
By Susan Makowski-DeGraw
My quad runs, it starts up runs for about 10 minutes and then it dies if you let it sit for 10 minutes it’ll start back up ride for another 10 minutes and then die again, trying to figure out why it keeps stalling
I’m just wondering what year bike i got? it seems the vin has been rubbed off i got it from a auction here in Australia engine starts but seems has a dirty carb wont idle well
and also has a problem I put it in gear and makes a grinding noise but does not move it the neutral light goes out but then when I change gear it grinds more in the higher gears as well I’m guessing the differential is stuffed so wanting to buy new part for it will start the pull down next week
this is the first bike I have worked on used to dealing with cars
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