Quantcast
Jump to content


2009 RZR sputters at speed


Tim-ANC

Recommended Posts

Had the problem earlier this month. Found the air intake filter (K&N) covered in mud and cleaned it. Took it out this weekend and it worked great until I went on a longer ride.

 

After it warms up, it bogs down at about 20mph. Engine sputters. No change at full throttle. It runs fine at lower RPM. Once it cools off, I can run it at higher speed for a few minutes then it bogs down. Seems like there is an electronic component that overheats. Check engine display comes on when it happens. Did manage to complete our 34 mile ride though.

 

Buddy suggested the throttle position sensor. Will dig into the manual later on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Checked the connecter and wiring to the TPS. Seems good. This machine requires a special tester to check the component for proper operation and to adjust it if replaced.

Our Sportsman would use the same tester so I thought to buy one. Quick search on ebay and the official Polaris tester is (OMFG) is $1000!

Does anyone know of an inexpensive after market brand I can get or a work around to perform the test? It appears to have a power source and plugs in line with the wiring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took it out yesterday. Still sputters at 20mph. Think I need to change the TPS. I looked online and some people have made their own testers. I don't feel like going through that effort. I'll change the switch and take it to an independent shop guy in my town for testing.

Got a good ride in at the Knik Glacier gravel bar even though it was slow. First time I was able to ride our "new" sportsman. I like it.98b7adf45feef84056a634193ebe45c4.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By semicolon
      Hi, I am having issues with my TRX350D fuel pump.  It suddenly stopped running so I have replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals.  I have fitted a new pump, fuel cut-off relay and rectifier.  Still nothing!!  The pump runs when attached to a battery.  The engine will start on the choke and the filter fills with fuel but it will  not rev and dies when the choke is closed. I have power to the relay but nothing at the pump black/white wire when cranking the engine.  Any ideas where to go from here would be very much appreciated!!
       
    • By N00bie
      From Arkansas. Just bought a 2012 Gator 850i RSX because I could not pass up the price. BUT it has an idle problem. So, to be honest, I joined just to get a service manual. I have a choice: 1)Buy a hard copy: ~$100; 2)Buy a CD ~$35.00; Get a direct download for free posting 10 times; or get a download for $29.00 (subscription). Haven't decided what to do yet.
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





    • By kiriyaaoi
      Hello everyone, I just picked up an 02 LT-F250F the other day and have been in the process of tearing it down to fix some stuff- one of which was the cylinder base gasket leaking like a sieve. Well, I know why that is now, and I also discovered that someone had been in there before. I didn't take pictures, but it looks like it was probably run low on oil at some point, the cam journals and the "bearings" (for lack of a better term) in the head and the valve cover are totally wiped out, very deep grooves.  From what I know it's very difficult to repair aluminum in this way, so I'm trying to figure out where to go next.
       
      1. Have someone grind down the head and valve cover and fit actual bearings in since the aluminum is screwed, and have the cam ground down to match.  I have no idea what this would cost.
      2. Buy a replacement head+cam+valve cover.
       
      #1 I was hoping someone might have some advice on, but #2 seems like it'll (probably) be the more cost effective option.  However I'm running into some difficulty, it seems like the 2001 and 2002 models specifically use a different head part number,  11100-19B10, instead of  11100-19B01 like for all earlier models.  What exactly is the difference between them? There are obviously far more of the earlier heads because it ran for over 10 years.  Are they actually interchangeable? I've also noticed there are heads from the LT250EF that has 4 valve heads but also otherwise look identical.  Would those work as well possibly?  I'd like to not have to drop $500 on machine work or new heads on a $1300 quad that I'm already putting a bunch of new parts on.  Oh, and it has a new piston and the cylinder itself looks pretty good too, as I said someone was in here before me.
       
      Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I'll post pics of the carnage tomorrow.
         
       
    • By dalton7545
      ive had an account for years.   cand dowload a manual tho   havent posted enought so here is a post
×
×
  • Create New...