Quantcast
Jump to content

1991 Honda Fourtrax 300 no lights, no start


Recommended Posts

Hi guys.  First post, hope you can help.  As above 1991 Honda fourtrax.  Starting, running fine until a few weeks ago. Used primarily to put my ski boat in the garage (put 2" ball on front).  Any way, had just backed boat into garage, turned off to crank trailer wheel down, when I went to restart got nothing.  

No neutral light, no headlights, no reverse light, would not turn over when start button pushed.  It would crank and run when I jumped the contacts on the start relay.  While running the neutral light will come on, although it is dim and flickers.  Reverse light on when running and in reverse.

What I have done to this point:

1.  Used jumper cable to ground battery (-) terminal to engine block thinking ground wire from battery to engine may be bad.  No neutral light, no start.

2. Applied 12 volts to start relay.  Got a loud click like it was making contact.  I didn't have the battery/starter cables connected to the relay, but I am assuming it would have cranked at that time.  

3. Disconnected neutral switch wire.  Grounded neutral switch wire with jumper wire. No neutral light, no electric start. 

At this point I am thinking ignition switch vs broken wire in the harness going to the neutral switch (due to dimness and flickering when running).

Any and all suggestions to help track down this issue are appreciated.

Thanks

 

Edited by Mark Walters
Spelling, left something out
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to Quadcrazy, I would check the rectifier and see what’s going on. It’s possible that it’s bad causing a voltage issue. 

Then I would check the voltage at the battery and see what you have there including cranking if you can get it to crank. You may be right on a bad ignition.

Double check the the ground cable(black) where it bolts up to the frame from the wire coming off the battery

Wiggle the key also while this is going on to see if it starts.  If so then while it’s running wiggle the key to see if it acts up again.  

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the response.  After spending some time studying the wiring diagram, I realized that I had missed one of the first things I should have checked.  The pair of fuses coming of from the battery.  Both fuses were good, but one of the connector wires had broken away from the fuse.  I used a jumper wire from the battery side of the fuse to the broken wire and the neutral light came on and it fired right up.

Now to find the wire to fuse connector to repair the broken one.

Thanks again.

 

fuse cable.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That’s a good find ! Nice work, that’s an old type in line fuse.   I would order the newer style and splice it right in.  

I use these and they work great just make sure you put the right size fuse in.  You can see the amperage of the old glass  fuse on the metal part.     

Waterproof car fuse holder 5/10/15/20/30A Amp In Line Blade Fuse Holder with 10 pcs fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLUQ1BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9KhhDbSWH2JTZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hello, i have a honda 300 1997 model so one day i was cruising down my road with all of my lights working then i started to see them get very bright then all of a sudden no lights the oil light came on and i instantly turned off the atv, after a few minutes of sitting i turned over the key and the oil light would come on then turn off after a few seconds but i have no neutral light the reverse light works and the oil light but no other lights work also the four wheeler will turn over off of the battery and at first i noticed after the incident happened when i would rev the engine the oil light would get bright kind of like a water hose being turned up but until this day i have no lights but the oil light when key is first turned on and the reverse light no other lights work. And to keep it in mind it was pitch black outside when it happened so i had alot of fun getting back home.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is most likely a rectifier/ regulator  problem.  It is possible  when  the rectifier /regulator goes  for the AC voltage  from the stator  to  spike up to  30 volts or possibly  more  and burn out your lights.  "Lights  going  really  bright  and then  off"  points to that possibility.  Check  your  headlight  by  jumpering 12v directly to the contacts on it. Check voltage  to the  battery terminals with the motor  running

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Locate and try to expose the ignition switch. You will need access at the back of the switch or the plug going to it. 
Check the ignition switch for power. One of the wires going to the switch will have 12+. Then turn the switch on and see if its sending 12+ out to the rest of the controls.  
If so that portion is ok. The next thing to check would be your neutral safety switch. It may be locking out your dash controls etc.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Gwbarm
      Just aquired this Honda 4514. I had heard of them and seen them but had never really looked at one. Amazing machine from the 90s.
      It has a 14 HP inline 2 cylinder engine. A cute little fan like the old school cars had and a little radiator. It has a timing belt on the back of the engine running the cam and a water pump. Just like a miniature car engine with  electronic clutches to turn blades on and off. Pretty hight tech for the 90s not a small thing and built like a tank weighs in at 600 pds hydrostatic trans. I have found out that almost anything you have to do to it the engine has to come out starter timing belt water pump. Very expensive parts i think most got junked for that reason, i did find out they were built by John Deere except for the honda engine.
      Does anyone here have any expierience with these. 
    • By drag_on
      after the gully wash i dont know if its such a good idea to go 
    • By prdicon
      I was looking to buy a new ATV. 
      I was debating between Polaris sportsman 450 and Honda rancher.
      Polaris it a bit cheaper.
      But can you tell me which one will have more demand on the used market? Which one will keep it's value better?
       
      Let's say 3-5 years from now.
    • By hporter1208
      Okay, so I have a 2002 Rubicon 500…bought it last year and it sat for several months until I put a new rear axle in, FINALLY got that done and was super excited to finally have my wheeler going, just to notice a strong gas odor. Popped the seat off and sure enough, pouring gas from the carb overflow. Fast forward a few more weeks and get the new carb and get it in, no leak! Yay. Except now I have no spark. 😒 I’ve tried another plug and checked and am getting no power to the coil pack. I’ve read and read and mostly what I’ve found is ECU, which is fine…but I like to exhaust all avenues before buying the more expensive parts just because I don’t wanna spend the money and it have ended up being something simple that I overlooked because I was trying to rush. 😂 I don’t know if it’s relevant, but I read on another post that someone had similar issues with theirs and it was the sensor on the side of the carb, just a thought since this literally happened after I put the new carb on. It also displays “- -“ on the display screen where it should show the gear position.
    • Sell your car with CarBrain
    • By HondaRubi2022
      Hello,
      I have a 2022 Honda Rubicon and I have an issue where it won’t start, when I turn the key for power nothing lights up and it won’t start but the lights will turn on with the light switch, I’ve checked all fuses and they’re good, I don’t have a wiring schematic I’m not sure where to start, I checked the ignition fuse when I turn the key on and there’s no voltage there, I used a jumper wire from the batter to the top of the ignition fuse and then it works fine and starts fine but as soon as I turn the quad/key off it won’t start again until I jump the ignition fuse with battery power, just wondering if anyone could give me some tips where to go with this or if anyone has had the same issue, thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...