Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi guys.  First post, hope you can help.  As above 1991 Honda fourtrax.  Starting, running fine until a few weeks ago. Used primarily to put my ski boat in the garage (put 2" ball on front).  Any way, had just backed boat into garage, turned off to crank trailer wheel down, when I went to restart got nothing.  

No neutral light, no headlights, no reverse light, would not turn over when start button pushed.  It would crank and run when I jumped the contacts on the start relay.  While running the neutral light will come on, although it is dim and flickers.  Reverse light on when running and in reverse.

What I have done to this point:

1.  Used jumper cable to ground battery (-) terminal to engine block thinking ground wire from battery to engine may be bad.  No neutral light, no start.

2. Applied 12 volts to start relay.  Got a loud click like it was making contact.  I didn't have the battery/starter cables connected to the relay, but I am assuming it would have cranked at that time.  

3. Disconnected neutral switch wire.  Grounded neutral switch wire with jumper wire. No neutral light, no electric start. 

At this point I am thinking ignition switch vs broken wire in the harness going to the neutral switch (due to dimness and flickering when running).

Any and all suggestions to help track down this issue are appreciated.

Thanks

 

Edited by Mark Walters
Spelling, left something out
Posted

Welcome to Quadcrazy, I would check the rectifier and see what’s going on. It’s possible that it’s bad causing a voltage issue. 

Then I would check the voltage at the battery and see what you have there including cranking if you can get it to crank. You may be right on a bad ignition.

Double check the the ground cable(black) where it bolts up to the frame from the wire coming off the battery

Wiggle the key also while this is going on to see if it starts.  If so then while it’s running wiggle the key to see if it acts up again.  

 

 

Posted

Thanks for the response.  After spending some time studying the wiring diagram, I realized that I had missed one of the first things I should have checked.  The pair of fuses coming of from the battery.  Both fuses were good, but one of the connector wires had broken away from the fuse.  I used a jumper wire from the battery side of the fuse to the broken wire and the neutral light came on and it fired right up.

Now to find the wire to fuse connector to repair the broken one.

Thanks again.

 

fuse cable.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

That’s a good find ! Nice work, that’s an old type in line fuse.   I would order the newer style and splice it right in.  

I use these and they work great just make sure you put the right size fuse in.  You can see the amperage of the old glass  fuse on the metal part.     

Waterproof car fuse holder 5/10/15/20/30A Amp In Line Blade Fuse Holder with 10 pcs fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLUQ1BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9KhhDbSWH2JTZ

Posted

funny how we usually think something wrong is buried deep within a bike thats making it not run right and all the time it was right under our nose..  happens to me all the time..  check the little stuff first i guess...

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hello, i have a honda 300 1997 model so one day i was cruising down my road with all of my lights working then i started to see them get very bright then all of a sudden no lights the oil light came on and i instantly turned off the atv, after a few minutes of sitting i turned over the key and the oil light would come on then turn off after a few seconds but i have no neutral light the reverse light works and the oil light but no other lights work also the four wheeler will turn over off of the battery and at first i noticed after the incident happened when i would rev the engine the oil light would get bright kind of like a water hose being turned up but until this day i have no lights but the oil light when key is first turned on and the reverse light no other lights work. And to keep it in mind it was pitch black outside when it happened so i had alot of fun getting back home.

Posted

It is most likely a rectifier/ regulator  problem.  It is possible  when  the rectifier /regulator goes  for the AC voltage  from the stator  to  spike up to  30 volts or possibly  more  and burn out your lights.  "Lights  going  really  bright  and then  off"  points to that possibility.  Check  your  headlight  by  jumpering 12v directly to the contacts on it. Check voltage  to the  battery terminals with the motor  running

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted

I have the same problem checked all wires to fuses but starter button doesn’t work no lights come on getting no spark but motor turns over if I jump cylanoid but no spark it worked fine one day next day nothing some one give me an idea

 

Posted

Locate and try to expose the ignition switch. You will need access at the back of the switch or the plug going to it. 
Check the ignition switch for power. One of the wires going to the switch will have 12+. Then turn the switch on and see if its sending 12+ out to the rest of the controls.  
If so that portion is ok. The next thing to check would be your neutral safety switch. It may be locking out your dash controls etc.  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By P_syko
      I’m brand new to 4 wheelers and just bought a 1987 Yamaha Moto 4 350. It has good compression and fuel, but no spark. I’ve looked high and low trying to find how to test all the components of the ignition system, but can’t find anything. This has a new CDI box on it, but I suspect it might be the stator. How do I test the stator on this? Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
    • By carkivey3
      i just picked this up. was told ran fine but overheating issues led to replacing head gasket and head. has not ran since. he is not a mechanic but helped someone else who he could not get back to finish job, got aggravated and put up for sale. i was thinking timing issues. i have 110-120psi on all 3 cylinders so i think valves are correct. dont know about distributor yet. however i have no spark. i have no power going to ignition coil. tried to follow white wire but gets lost in wire harness. does anyone have a wiring diagram? can anyone tell me what conditions have to be met before starting. motor turns over so i would think all safeties are met but you never know.
    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
    • By Arizona
      I recently bought a 87 TRX 250 not running of course, the owner had a brand new Key Switch on it.
      I think it is the wrong one or wrong wire colors as the colors dont match up with wiring diagram i downloaded for it. 
      anyone have a pic of their ign switch wires where they connect with the wire colors for that model? I ended up leaving the black/w stripe and
      green wire disconnected in order to hot wire it for other testing but would like to know as the colors dont match diagram. 


    • By mmikesell
      First post here need some help/advice. I bought a 2001 king quad 300, vin number JSAAK43A212111871. I have been trying to do some basic maintenance as it runs but doesn't idle all that well . I want to take out and clean/repair the  carb but when looking for parts it ask for model X Y K1 K2. How do I know which model I have? I have tried some vin decoders but they haven't told me. If anyone could recommend a carb rebuild kit for my quad Id appreciate it. Also any tips on tracking down an owners manual? 
×
×
  • Create New...