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KVF300 Prairie service manual


Sonders

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Nice work with the oil plug.  That boot does not look like it’s sitting correct, it seems cocked and could also be the cause of that seal leaking under the boot.  Maybe it’s just the pic but it looks like it’s not aligned right.  That rear swing arm does have to be I bolted so it can swing away from the engine.  The four bolts have to come off.  What I would do if I were you is since the boot had holes in it already is cut it off and find the leak. See if it’s coming from the rear seal of that bevel gear.  You will also have a good look at the alignment with that boot off.  Lastly I would check the bushings on the swing arm right at the frame. 

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I would agree @Spartacus Stroppel IF THE BOOT was not torn in a few spots. But if he’s going to replace it anyway like he said then yes I would open it up/cut it off before it’s taken apart so you can see where and if it’s an alignment problem.  A boot with holes is useless.  It needs to be replaced along with the seal that’s leaking. 

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thanks Frank and Spartacus.  I'll try to get in there one evening this week and see what's going on with it.  Deer season (firearm) comes in this weekend so probably going to have limited time to mess with the bike the next few weeks haha.  Lesson learned on this thing...... be very cautious when looking at a bike that is freshly washed off and sitting in grass area so as not able to see oil spots under it.  I especially like how previous owner mentioned the "fresh oil change".  I'm now 0-2  with bad luck purchasing used bikes.

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It’s like buying a car on a rainy day there’s no squeaks or noise.  Everything else is manageable but the oil plug is a bi***! 
CANT WAIT FOR RIFLE SEASON!!  
got some big racks this year.  They are all nocturnal now. I went from over 1000 pics of these guys all hours of the day to maybe 20 and they are all in the middle of the night and with a doe.   

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where are you located Frank?  I'm in Southern Indiana and still seeing several during the day.  I've got a nice one picked out that keeps strolling across my back yard in the mornings between 2 fields.  The bastard destroyed 2 of my cypress trees that mark our rear property line.  My two labs have chased after him a couple of times, I'm going to be pissed if they run him off.  They're about to get locked in their kennels until the season is over hahaha.

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looks like he'd go in the freezer as good as any other.  I tried to snap a pic of the buck I've been watching as he strolled across my driveway in front of me the other morning on my way to work but I was too slow getting phone up and with him moving it turned out blurry.  Here is his little brother that’s also been hanging around my backyard.  That’s about 50 yards behind my house.

1398E73A-F65A-469B-BC41-5FE0AC3A658D.jpeg

Edited by Sonders
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Ok lastnight I tried to pull the driveshaft boot back to take a look but couldn’t really see anything.  I went ahead and dropped the swingarm.  It looks to me like the oil seal had just popped out of place.  I seated it back around the opening all the way and cleaned everything up.  I’m ordering a new boot.  The good news is it looks like the swingarm has been off somewhat recently as it was pretty easy to get off, I’m assuming to replace the bearings as they are both in really good shape.  Below is backside shot of the gear housing as soon as I removed the swingarm.  The plastic ring around the shaft is the oil seal correct?  You can kind of see the oil pooled at bottom of the opening.  Hopefully that’s all it was.  Also, I didn’t pay attention to the swingarm while it was sitting on the jack and it tipped forward.  As it sat there it started pucking fluid out.  What type of oil is needed for the rear?  Guess I’ll go ahead and drain the remaining fluid from rear diff and refill with fresh fluid, although what leaked out looked pretty fresh.

C35B2C75-A14B-4B74-8163-2CE736E08E0A.jpeg

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Nice work. That black seal is the O ring. It’s probably crushed a bit and that’s why it leaked. Obviously your changing the boot since it has holes in it correct? 
Get some carb cleaner spray and spray it on that dirt and wipe it clean.   
pop in the new O ring seal then add a drop of grease on the splines before you put it back together and your good to go. Just make sure you tighten the four nuts in a crisscross configuration so it seats evenly, I like to put a drop of lock tight on the threads.  

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I’m sorry I thought you took it apart and screwed the nuts  on for safe keeping. 
So that drive shaft pops on and what holds it in place? It looks different from the previous pic you posted. A lot dirtier lol.  So you unbolted the swing arm and backed it off ? I have only taken the bayous apart and they are very similar so forgive me for being a little confused. Post a few more pics if you can. 

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Yeah the earlier picture with boot still on was from the side view.  The one just posted above is from rear view looking forward.  I had just pulled the swingarm off.  The driveshaft simply slid off the splined shaft pictured.  I’ll try to get more pictures tomorrow evening.  The plastic ring is listed as oil seal in parts diagram.  Like I mentioned above, it wasn’t fully seated around the splined shaft; it was crocked around the shaft.  I shoved it back into the opening as far as it would go.  I’m just not sure what would keep it from working it’s way back again though.

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I was just looking at the manual and that does seem weird that it just slides off. Are there any bolts/brackets missing on the swing arm or any bushingS that seem not right ? There should be a constant pressure holding all that together.  The bayou is a little different and locks in with all four of the bolt you see on the bevel gear housing case.  
I would definitely inspect every bushing and bolt back there and make sure everything is tight. 
How do the universal joints look and feel ? 
 

You could spray it good with a cleaner and add a drop of silicone then slide it back in and let it dry. Maybe that will stop if from sliding out. 
My last guess is that the seal itself has worn down from rotation and has gotten shorter which means replacement.  

Edited by Frank Angerano
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I kind of wish I would have went ahead and ordered new seal when I ordered the boot since I was already paying shipping.  I'll go ahead and pull that cover off of the gear housing tonight and check O ring on backside of it.  I see an O ring in parts diagram, maybe I should go ahead and replace it and the seal.  The u joint in the swingarm seems good and tight still.  Earlier in the thread Frank you had mentioned about my picture of where the swingarm met up with the gear housing looked like it was off adjustment wise; however I don't see anyway of adjusting that. 

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It could have been the way the boot just sits in there that makes is looked cocked. Before you tighten up the new boot just be sure to take a look and see how the shaft and U joints line up. 
As far as the O rings in the bevel gear housing if they aren’t leaking you can let them be but that’s up to you.  The rear seal I have a feeling is just worn so when you get the new one measure or compare them.  See how they match up this way you have an answer. If they are the same size then you have to start looking elsewhere for why that seal is slipping out. 

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That drive shaft looks new.  The u joints need grease.  Also keep in mind the drive shaft could be slipping due to something on the back end.  Where the rear differential and the shaft meet?  So if that new seal is the same size as the old one the problem may be down low.  Might as well take a looK while it’s open.  

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Right, I may as well open up the rear diff while at it.  The u joint didn’t look like that when I first pulled it apart; it seems to have developed surface rust while sitting exposed to the air apparently.  It’s in garage, but non heated.  I turn on a couple of infared heaters when I go out there to work.  I’ll definitely still hit it with some fresh grease before putting it all back together.

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was out of commission over the holiday sick so didn't get much time wrenching the past week.  I did manage to get seals replaced and swing arm mounted back on lastnight.  I attempted to mess with rear drum brake to get it freed up and lubed but didn't get very far.  The castle nut that is on the outside of the hub; is it left hand thread or something?  I could not get it to budge with my 1/2" impact.  I even tried my breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe and all it did was slowly turn the entire axle.  Wondering if I need to put a wrench on one of the locknuts that is between the drum and hub to keep the axle from spinning.  I need to put some fresh oil back in at messing with drain plug and seals and see if the damn thing will run now.

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Im surprised that the  nut is so tight. It should be normal tighten threaded. Have you double  checked that there is not a piece of the cotter pin stuck in the hole also a little heat works well but be sure to put a cold rag over the hub to keep everything else cool and the flame localized to the nut. 
Try to go both ways after you heat it ip.  
 

Feel better. 

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