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I have recently bought a kawasaki kvf650 4x4 . They are marketed as a brute force or a prairie. Same bike .
Im needing to find the chassis number for it so I can order a few parts required .
The local dealer has said bring it to them they will find it but it will cost money to do so .
Cheaper and easier to find it myself .
Its not between the A arm mount points which is where they are supposed to be ..
This is my 1st atv project... I'm use to trucks.
I have replaced both fuel lines and it's not leaking from there anymore. I cleaned out carb and it's not leaking from there. Nowhere round hose's and carb are wet...it looks like it's leaking from bottom of atv... I'm baffled. I hope someone can help
At least I think that's what it is, I can't find the vehicle sticker to be sure. Anyway, it wouldn't idle, so I cleaned the carb as well as I could without removing it all the way. The wire harness on the bottom and the choke cable foiled me a bit. Now it idles, but it dies when I give it gas (throttle).
I have it mostly disconnected again, and noticed in the wiring at the bottom of the bowl there is a small metal tube like a thermocouple that has a top that's supposed to go into a small hole under the throat on the Engine side. It was not in the hole. What is this, and could that have something to do with this problem?
Hi Yamaha folks! I've been a Suzuki guy for a while, but just picked up a 2000 Blaster basket case last night. Looking for any insight or helpful advice you may have.
Dude told me the top end was fine because it's "a Wiseco, not that cheap chinese sh*t", and the bottom was locked up. The top end is so "fine" that the jug slides right over the piston because the rings are stuck in their grooves. Mmmmhmm.
The crank wouldn't move, but there was flash rust on a lot of the gears because the cover was left off, and after a healthy soak in PB Blaster CSP (Corrosion Stop and Prevent) I managed to get it freed up (yay!) but it will only rotate 7/8 of a full turn in either direction (boo!), and then it thuds to a stop against some as yet unidentified obstacle...
I don't feel any play in the crank, webs don't appear to have any runout during the rotation I can achieve, and the rod bearing seems to have an acceptable amount of deflection. The wrist pin bearing was just shredded, and fell apart when punching out the pin.
I did a little Google Fu and found a few posts around the internets about the kicker mechanism being a possible cause of the incomplete rotation issue. I suspect it's either that or one of the needles from the wrist pin bearing is lodged somewhere inconvenient. Or both. Or something entirely different and awful. Won't really know until I split the case, if I have to. I pulled the tranny drain and found a lot of filings on the magnetic plug end, so I'm soaking it in kero, gonna give it a good shake and drain it thru a coffee filter to see what comes out.
I see some gouging on the case from where a chain let loose and mangled it a bit, but no cracks. And I only managed to shear off TWO bolts so far, and they're only on the Magneto cover, so no leakers I have a plethora of broken bolt and stud removers, but that's a project for AFTER determining the depths of depravity to which this poor old YFS has sunk.
The (relative) pros:
a decent set of FLY bars some PowerMadd handguards FMF pipe and slip on - Pipe is in excellent shape, muffler has been thoroughly defiled, and has no packing in it, but I can shape it up just fine. a DG bumper Twist throttle to save my arthritic thumb a mostly intact, mostly matching set of plastics (rear is a pretty rare dark blue vs the rest which is the more common bright blue and the nose is blue but painted black. CitriStrip and done.) Seat is in good shape, but I hate the cover, so it's getting redone. Very little monkeying done to the harness - had what I assume are dash light connectors mummified inside just shy of a mile of black tape. Cheap kill switch twist & taped to two cut wires from what was probably the OEM start/kill/lights switch. Have to look at the wiring diagram when I have a minute. Frame could use a little love in terms of paint, but appears intact and straight. Nothing a little strategic rattle canning won't solve. The cons:
No rear grab bar missing/rusty/stripped hardware - I see a complete bolt set on eBay for $25, I think that's going to be necessary. no rear brakes at all - no caliper, no disc, no cable, no foot lever "Oh yeah, Blasters are notorious for missing their rear brakes" he says when I ask him about it after I've gotten home and found they are not in the box of parts. Riiiight. front tires appear to be worn out ice tires with nubs left of the studs, which sucks because I'd like to race it on the ice this winter on Lake George Obviously the motor is in pretty rough shape but I think it's workable.
View File 2019-2020 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS 4WD service manual
2019-2020 Yamaha Grizzly 700 EPS 4WD service manual
Includes Models: Base, Hunter, SE, SE Black, XTR
Submitter GrizzlyRider Submitted 10/20/2021 Category Yamaha ATV
I am working on a 2000 Bayou 220. It seems to have very weak spark, and I suspect this is giving me a no start/hard start issue. I can sometimes get the ATV to start, but when it wont start it wont even run on carb spray.
Is a weak spark common for this ATV? Should it have a strong vibrant spark like any other small engine?
I have tested the stator and have .8 ohms between all 3 yellow wires, and it is open to ground on each of the yellow wires.
Carb has been cleaned, and with the airbox off I can see it wicking fuel up through the main jet when I crank it.
Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there...
Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!" and hauled ass to this dude's house with 3 crisp Benjamins to wave under his nose. Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co.
Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional (for long). Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads!
Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it. The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes. Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles.
PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much. And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged. So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery. Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing. Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. put everything back together again, turned the key, got green light, and starter cranked! Then nothing again. Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Thing was full of powdered remains of spade terminals, so I installed a NOS replacement model from RADIO SHACK that had been swimming around in my toolbox for nigh a decade. Sure of my fix, I tried the starter again, and NOTHING again. More fiddling revealed that the OTHER fuse holder (15A) was the same. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good.
Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb!
So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do. I'm thinking maybe he wiped down the OUTSIDE of the thing, and was shocked that it had little to no result. That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match. A quick perusal of the Amazon bargain bin turned up a carb (BST31SS) and non-vacuum petcock for $25, with a caveat that the carb required minor modifications to fit. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins. Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it. Safety first, amirite?
Now with definite spark, and reliable fuel delivery, I started cranking and fiddling with the idle and air screws, managed to get it to fire up - almost literally~ There was a LOT of smoke coming from near the exhaust port on the head, thought I had loose header studs for a minute, then realized it was just more of the old oil mud I had missed while cleaning, burning off between the fins on the head and the exhaust heat shield.
First fire up - lots of smoke
While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little.
Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Oops. Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Here's the quad, up on the lift, minus the LF wheel (due to a seized cylinder I've since replaced) with range set to HIGH, and Differential Lock engaged. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire Dog under the tire. Again. I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues.
Testing Diff Lock in High Range
Put the wheel cylinder in, (Dorman w38750 for a 1991 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift was a precise fit and only $10) to replace this crusty POS:
put the wheel and hub back together, put seat back on and fired it up. Made sure it would start again after turning it off.
Long Live The King
All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet (it came with a 145 installed, which I swapped out for the 120 OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but 145 seems like a big jump.
I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week. Pretty sure it's going to be yellow, no camo or green bullshit for me thanks Hope you didn't hate my post.
What battery type is best wet cell, agm or lithium? Who makes the most reliable battery for atv's? I need to replace a battery on my qtv. It had a wet cell lead acid. What doe you recomend for a replacement battery that is not a fortune and that is reliable?
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