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KVF300 Prairie service manual


Sonders

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On 8/15/2019 at 8:07 AM, Sonders said:

It appears that the Service Manual thread at top of forum is dead as all the links no longer work.  I'm actually looking for service manual for a 2000 KVF300 Prairie that I just picked up.  Does anybody have link to one that they can share, or know where I can find one?  Thanks in advance for any help.

I just uploaded the repair manual you are wanting. It says it will need to be approved by admin so I dont know how long that takes

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For the cheap carbs you have to get the right size needle and seats and orfice for the engine you are putting it on.. the ones that come with the carb are wrong... it took me a long time to get mine to run decent with a China carb... I had to order all the right guts for it... in short new carb took more time and money to set up if you got a rebuild able oem one.

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@Spartacus Stroppel awesome job with helping out on that manual . I took a look and the manual is exactly what your machine @Sonders shows on the carburetor wiring. So it works the way I explained and should have the control box that I mentioned. You should have no problem identifying what’s what now. Let us know how that carburetor goes . 

 

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Edited by Frank Angerano
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Always fighting the never enough time! Story of my life, I finally got around to the Mojave I picked up almost a year ago. I have my two boys washing it down and getting it ready for a tear down.   Looks completely in tact, the original tool kit and paperwork was in the rear compartment! 

Hoping this thing only needs a carburetor cleaning and some fresh fuel and spark plug. 

Pulling all the stickers that are on it except for the factory ones since they are in great shape.   In a few weeks she will be like new, just not sure what the heck I’m going to do with it.   

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They have bikes already so we will see.  My son want to ride a quad with a clutch for a change so maybe he can have some fun for a little while. 

It’s all torn down already.  Antifreeze looks to be a good healthy green. I opened the bowl on the carb to see what’s going on, looks good but def a little varnish in there and stinks to high heaven of some nasty old fuel. 

Mu gut tells me pull the engine and properly clean and paint and put it back together but I’m going to sleep on that decision for now.  

It’s just more dirty then anything, I mean filthy!!!  Plastics are in perfect condition aside form the stickers all over it. 

Tomorrow the carb will get an overhaul and the rest of the bike will get a hot steam pressure wash and maybe that will make my mind up on pulling motor or not.   I ordered the paint today for touch up and a new chain and a clutch.  I don’t want to get into it to far so we will see.  Keep the forum posted but I will start a new topic for that later.   

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
13 hours ago, Spartacus Stroppel said:

If the manual worked for you please post up a review on it... I find it's hard to read write color in the schematics other then that seems complete... 

I was able to view the whole manual, so I'd say it's good.  Thanks again for posting it.  Do I need to go to the post where you actually uploaded it and review or is there another spot for reviews?

 

Still haven't gotten the used oem carb I bought the other week installed on the bike to see how it works.  I finally got a chance lastnight though to pull the carb apart and check it over.  It was all clean on the insde so hopefully good to go.  I'm going to try to get it installed one night this week or this coming weekend.  Wish me luck.

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ok just a quick update.  Was able to get the used oem carb installed last night.  Bike fired right up.  I let it run for a few minutes before shutting it off.  It has an oil leak I need to track down.  I went ahead and pulled the bike apart for a good cleaning and to go through the electrical connections to clean out and add new dielectric grease to the contacts.  I gave the frame and engine a good pressure washing last night.  So now I'll start going through electrical connections when I have time and go from there with starting to put the bike back together. 

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1 hour ago, Frank Angerano said:

Sounds great, so the carb was in good shape then? 

Nothing better then washing it down   And having a clean frame to work on. 

Where about is the oil leak coming from ?  

unfortunately not exactly sure where the oil leak is coming from.  I'm hoping that since the bike is clean now, I'll be able to pin point it.  I thought originally it was coming from the rear housing that the driveshaft runs through, but now it  looks like it's more coming from towards front of the bike, so I don't know.

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  • 1 month later...

been a while since I posted an update as it's been pretty hectic lately.  The bike has been shoved back in the corner of the garage untouched.  I'm going to try to get back on it and get this thing going.  I attempted to roll it out of the corner into one of the garage bays the other night and noticed the rear brake is sticking on it, so will need to pull it apart and lube it up.  Was checking on the oil leak that I noticed awhile back and decided to do an oil flush and refill on it while I was at it.  The previous owner stated that he had just did an oil change on it which it did have a new filter on it, however the oil that had been leaking out was pretty dark and old looking.  I crawled under the bike to pull the drain plug and that's when I noticed that previous owner must have lost the drain plug and replaced it with what looked like some sort of pipe end plug fitting that didn't fit real well allowing the oil to leak around it.  Local dealer didn't have an oem plug and gasket in stock so I jumped online and ordered them.  Once they arrive I'll install and fill with new oil and see what happens.  Hopefully that's all it is.  Once oil is refilled I think I'm ready to fully put the bike back together and fire it up.   Hoping for some time this weekend to mess with it.

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Hey @Sonders welcome back! Hate when things are hectic and hold us back form tinkering and fixing but it is what it is! Glad to hear your going to get after it again! That plug your referencing is usually used where someone either has stripped the oil plug and used a repair kit. I’m hoping your right but be careful when dealing with it. As far as the oil being black it happens even if it’s fresh oil in the engine, when you drain the old oil out you still have remaining dirty oil in the case. That dirty oil stains the new oil so don’t worry about that too much.  

Hopefully everything will work out and your machine will be up and running in no time.  
Keep us posted.  
 

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well, the threads were still good where drain plug goes, however it looks as if previous owner managed to bust part of the surrounding area of where it goes in.  It looks like the drain area of the engine casing had an area that drops down and the actual drain opening is recessed up farther.  Well part of the drop down surrounding area has been busted off, creating an uneven area for the plug to screw to.  I'll try to get a picture of what I'm talking about this evening.  I think I'm going to have to remove the rear skidplate area, which unfortunately is welded to the lower frame, so will have to cut skidplate off.  Then hopefully I can grind what's left of the lower part of casing to make it flush.  Then should be able to screw the plug in all the way and the crush washer/gasket will seal it up good.  That's my plan atleast; will see what happens.

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Got the skidplate pulled this evening so I could see what I was actually working with.  Here is the plug that was in it and what the drain opening looked like.  I ground the remaining broken section down flush.  The new oem plug doesn’t fit; it is too small apparently.  I’ll have to find a new bolt and crush washer that will fit the opening.

 

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Wow that sucks.  What that plug you took out was nothing more then a half inch galvanized plumbing plug. Not good for that.   My guess is the previous owner stripped the old one and tapped/threaded  it a little bigger. It looks like the casing is a little cracked as well.  Maybe it just the pic. Anyhow if you can grind it flat and get a kit that will fit you might get lucky.   

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Here is what I would do... that is a NPT fitting... get thread tape (pipe dope)... find you a NTP plug with a piggy back plug. Thread tape the new plug with piggy back and never remove it again... use the piggy back to drain from... the NPT fittings are tapered cut threads so they get tighter as you screw them in deeper so be careful you can bust the case easy with that thread type... but they seal easier when you cant use a gasket... 

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Ha Ajmboy funny you should mention those. I actually bought one of the bottom ones you have listed.  I installed it yesterday and put a qt of oil in and am letting it sit for awhile to see how it works before I posted my results. I’ll report back later when I’ve had time to check on it.

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After 24 hrs the drain plug is holding tight with no oil leaking.  I think I’m good there.  However it appears I also have a leak at the back of the gear housing boot to rear drive axle.  I can see oil dripping out of the rubber boot.  What are my next steps to fix leak there?  The boot is torn in a few spots so it for sure needs replaced for starters.  It looks like the whole rear end/swingarm will have to come off to get to that; is that correct?  I’m not having much better luck with this bike than I did with the turd of a bike that I just got rid of ugh.

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