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Posted

unsure if these pics help

the tab wasn't this low when I got it, I do remember this - but the air stops once float reaches second line

you mentioned 3/4 - the body of the floats themselves (black plastic pieces) are hitting the float bowl and won't advance further

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Posted

will do.  y'all go help some other folks - you've spent waaaaay too much time w/ me today.  I was off today and am off tomorrow.  i'll get carb back on soon and try to shoot short video of it running.

24k gold carb man :D

  • Like 1
Posted

I told myself not to get back online but I had to.  I am weak.

Got carb back on  - runs great - video unable to upload (and it was < 90mb) - still stalling when pressing in throttle. 

back to work next three days.

Posted

What about when you slowly accelerate?

I had  this problem on my Mojave but i put the two jets in the wrong spots since they are threaded the same.  (Pilot and main). 
I don't think yours are  and by the looks of the way you took it apart and numbered the jets on the cardboard  i don't think its your case. 
This is usually a problem that happens when fuel is restricted making it into the main jet as you accelerate. 


 

Posted

I can press as light as a feather or as slow as molasses on the throttle and after about 1/4 of the way in it still bogs down. 

Unsure if  this is indicative of anything: when I start the machine (cold engine), it turns over and idles and I can push the throttle all the way and it doesn't bog.

once the engine runs for about a minute, the bogging begins.

is there something metal expanding after the engine warms up that might be affixed to an internal carb piece (ie valve) that might cause the issue?  

the 89mb video won't upload

Posted

Put the choke at half way after its warmed up OR try and cover of the intake on the carburetor halfway with your hand and see how it throttles up. 
If it revs with a little restriction of air then its obvious that there is a fuel shortage happening someplace within. By creating an air restriction allows for a better fuel mix and that allows the engine to rev.   

Are you 100% sure all the jets are back where they belong ? 

Also is there a good flow of fuel from the tank? No blocked fuel lines or petcock on the tank? 

Posted

you are correct.  but i'm unsure how to remove the thing w/out shattering something!  I've no experience working on ATVs but trust the expert's advice.... 

I was looking down through the main jet - i saw the holes but, obviously, couldn't tell if they were plugged.

I'm pretty certain it didn't bog down when i got it. 

the only thing I've done is add a fuel filter - now, DO NOT LAUGH if the thing is on incorrectly - it may not matter - but i attached a pic.  yes, the hose is too long but i had it on there just to get things going - i can shorten the lighter colored hose at any time.  but it's got tight seals on both sides - even at fuel pump - no leaking of gas in these areas.  but is it faced the right direction?  would this even matter?  it took a few cranks to fill up with gas when i put it on after rebuilding fuel pump but has remained full since.

AND - after the first carb rebuild, there was a FEW drops of gas from the petcock - this has not returned after subsequent carb rebuilds and starts.  the petcock turn switch is TIGHT as can be but i'm able to go from prime to run to reserve.

 

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Posted (edited)

Its in the right way and it looks primed to me. I would try the air restriction method and see if it revs higher.  Just trying to rule out any kind of rev limiter that might not be working if your atv has one. Also try making an adjustment on the air/fuel screw. 

Edited by Frank Angerano
Posted

No holes plugged - and it came out fairly easily - wouldn't have known about the status of the holes until it was inspected - very positive.

I cleaned it with carb cleaner, ran small wires through the holes, blew through top / bottom while holding opposite end, then cleaned it again, dried with compressed air and re-inserted

regarding frank's idea about the air restriction method:

1) "Put the choke at half way after its warmed up" - you mean the screw-in apparatus that's external to the carb - turn it one way, engine revs, turn it other way, engine slows down?  I tried this before - turned it way up so that it idled high - then pressed throttle but it still bogged.   i also turned I down but this didn't work either.  i'll try it again.

2) "OR try and cover of the intake on the carburetor halfway with your hand and see how it throttles up. If it revs with a little restriction of air then its obvious that there is a fuel shortage happening someplace within. By creating an air restriction allows for a better fuel mix and that allows the engine to rev" - do you mean leaving the plastic boot piece off between the air box and carb, then partially covering that side of the carb while starting the machine?  nothing's gonna jump out and bite or burn my fingers?  I mean, I aint' a wuss or anything, I just like having all of my digits :-]

 

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Posted

Hahaha no nothing is going to jump out and bite you. 

 Not the idle setting. The idle screw that your referencing with the black cable is only to be used to adjust the idle on the atv when everything is all said and done.  

What i am referring to is your choke. Thats located either on the handlebars or on the side of the carburetor.  Its used when the engine is cold you turn the choke on and start your atv.  Then you push the choke back to the normal position when the atv is warmed up.   
So what I'm asking you to try is get the atv started and warmed up, then put the choke on halfway and see if when you press the throttle it still bogs down. 
 

Or the second method is to take the rear boot off the back of the carburetor so you can get your hand in there.  While the engine is already running take two fingers and cover the intake halfway.  Press the throttle and see if it revs up without that hesitation. If it does work then you know you are having a fuel delivery problem internally.    
 

Lastly the air fuel mixture screw may need to be adjusted. As i mentioned before if you can make a small screwdriver that can fit into and under the carburetor so you can adjust while the engine is running is the best way to get optimal air/fuel mixture adjustment. The higher the engine revs the better its mixing as you adjust. Once that is done all you wouod need to do is lower the idle upon completion of that air/fuel mixture screw.      

Posted

are you talking about the lever in the 1st pic?  i'd no idea there was a choke on this machine - I've never touched that lever - this could be the entire issue, no?

and pic #2 is the method you're talking about once it's all nestled back down in and hoses/lines hooked up?

now that this idiot knows about the choke switch, i'm thinking of going back to 2 5/8 on the air/gas screw

*** plan is this: put it back in once again, hook everything back up, start it, ADJUST FREAKIN CHOKE SWITCH and see if doesn't bog down

if it bogs down, remove rear boot, cover air intake side of carb w/ fingers, rev it up and see if bogs down

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Posted (edited)

I think that  red button above the  start  button is the choke,  and it  looks to  be on full choke to me . Does that  red button slide  back and forth ? . It looks like an  arrow indicator to the right of it  and  it is  fully to the left.. If that is the case , that is  most likely  your problem.  Start  the  bike  with  choke  button tro the  left ,,  reduce choke as needed as  it warms up  and do  all  your  fine adjusting  on a warm  motor / choke fully  off..... slid to the  right .

 

The button you're  pointing to  might be  a brake lock  button .  You  squeeze the brake handle  and press that button  down to  lock  if it  is .

 

 

Edited by davefrombc
Posted

That lever your pointing to is the choke.  Forward is on and back is off.  Is it possible you had it on the whole time? 
 

As far as fingers over the rear of the carburetor yes thats what i mean but only covering half of the opening.

But check the choke first before you do anything.  This could be your problem straight away the whole time. 

Posted

the red button is the "off/run" switch - the switch my finger is pointing to is the choke.

I think the issue has been solved, ladies - I got it to yard and started it up - it did bog down a bit but I fiddled w/ the choke and whatever happened, happened.  but that's what scares me a bit - all I did was move the choke up and down - it's in exactly the same place - maybe the carb end of the choke cable had been stuck?  trying to screw that outer plastic piece in was (verbal lubrication x10).

Frank, I removed air filter and plugged the air hole w/ 2-3 fingers while running - it shut down - couldn't breathe.

No bogging down, idles decently well - drove it through 3rd gear w/out issues.  let it set for 20 min, started it, let it warm up, no bogging down.

air/fuel pin is back to almost 2 5/8 (factory).  still hesitant to put her clothes back on but her dress was washed - she'll look pretty soon.

pic #1: underside of rear muffler - smokes a good bit here, too - does this piece having holes affect on the performance?  oughta be fun cutting through that rust

pic #2: choke switch: arrow points downward - if pulling it downward, it's going to advance the mechanism inside carb - the rod within the spring will advance into the "hole" in carb and plug this up, i'm assuming creating some type of seal; pushing the choke switch forward will retract the rod within the spring and open some important area w/in carb

pic #3: muffler pipe - this area was smoking a good bit after the brief ride - haven't removed shroud - wouldn't surprise me if it has a hole

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Posted

Lol simple choke, thats great. Awesome news on that.  The smoke that you see is it a pressurized type smoke like you can feel an exhaust leak or an oil burning on a hot exhaust type of smoke.  Reason is a lot of the time the caps that cover the valve adjustment stems will  sometimes leak over time or the valve cover gaskets.  
If its an exhaust leak you will feel it or hear it as well.   

Posted

yes, fantastic news - and a great Christmas present from all who pitched in.  great community here.  I just wish there was a place to donate cash - and I mean that - experts should be PAID for their input.  this group has likely saved me at LEAST $1000 - time, labor, diagnosing, parts, etc. - I am thankful.  and i'll likely be back for more in the future.   

 

Posted

Your  last picture  took  all the guess work  out of identifying the  choke , brake  hold  and  kill switch. . Glad  you  found the problem and it was as simple  as the choke being on all the time .  You'll likely  find you  need to  do  a  little  more tweaking for  max performance and ending any sign  of stumbling ,  but you're  well  on the way  now..   Happy  Quadding , and   have a  Very Merry Christmas.

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