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Dra O

1999 suzuki king quad fuel pump/petcock/carb advice

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Its in the right way and it looks primed to me. I would try the air restriction method and see if it revs higher.  Just trying to rule out any kind of rev limiter that might not be working if your atv has one. Also try making an adjustment on the air/fuel screw. 

Edited by Frank Angerano

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At least you saw it   driven  out in the right direction ...Up toward the top  of the carb from the bottom. I hope that's where the problem  is .... one or more of those tiny drilled holes plugged.

 

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No holes plugged - and it came out fairly easily - wouldn't have known about the status of the holes until it was inspected - very positive.

I cleaned it with carb cleaner, ran small wires through the holes, blew through top / bottom while holding opposite end, then cleaned it again, dried with compressed air and re-inserted

regarding frank's idea about the air restriction method:

1) "Put the choke at half way after its warmed up" - you mean the screw-in apparatus that's external to the carb - turn it one way, engine revs, turn it other way, engine slows down?  I tried this before - turned it way up so that it idled high - then pressed throttle but it still bogged.   i also turned I down but this didn't work either.  i'll try it again.

2) "OR try and cover of the intake on the carburetor halfway with your hand and see how it throttles up. If it revs with a little restriction of air then its obvious that there is a fuel shortage happening someplace within. By creating an air restriction allows for a better fuel mix and that allows the engine to rev" - do you mean leaving the plastic boot piece off between the air box and carb, then partially covering that side of the carb while starting the machine?  nothing's gonna jump out and bite or burn my fingers?  I mean, I aint' a wuss or anything, I just like having all of my digits :-]

 

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Hahaha no nothing is going to jump out and bite you. 

 Not the idle setting. The idle screw that your referencing with the black cable is only to be used to adjust the idle on the atv when everything is all said and done.  

What i am referring to is your choke. Thats located either on the handlebars or on the side of the carburetor.  Its used when the engine is cold you turn the choke on and start your atv.  Then you push the choke back to the normal position when the atv is warmed up.   
So what I'm asking you to try is get the atv started and warmed up, then put the choke on halfway and see if when you press the throttle it still bogs down. 
 

Or the second method is to take the rear boot off the back of the carburetor so you can get your hand in there.  While the engine is already running take two fingers and cover the intake halfway.  Press the throttle and see if it revs up without that hesitation. If it does work then you know you are having a fuel delivery problem internally.    
 

Lastly the air fuel mixture screw may need to be adjusted. As i mentioned before if you can make a small screwdriver that can fit into and under the carburetor so you can adjust while the engine is running is the best way to get optimal air/fuel mixture adjustment. The higher the engine revs the better its mixing as you adjust. Once that is done all you wouod need to do is lower the idle upon completion of that air/fuel mixture screw.      

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are you talking about the lever in the 1st pic?  i'd no idea there was a choke on this machine - I've never touched that lever - this could be the entire issue, no?

and pic #2 is the method you're talking about once it's all nestled back down in and hoses/lines hooked up?

now that this idiot knows about the choke switch, i'm thinking of going back to 2 5/8 on the air/gas screw

*** plan is this: put it back in once again, hook everything back up, start it, ADJUST FREAKIN CHOKE SWITCH and see if doesn't bog down

if it bogs down, remove rear boot, cover air intake side of carb w/ fingers, rev it up and see if bogs down

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I think that  red button above the  start  button is the choke,  and it  looks to  be on full choke to me . Does that  red button slide  back and forth ? . It looks like an  arrow indicator to the right of it  and  it is  fully to the left.. If that is the case , that is  most likely  your problem.  Start  the  bike  with  choke  button tro the  left ,,  reduce choke as needed as  it warms up  and do  all  your  fine adjusting  on a warm  motor / choke fully  off..... slid to the  right .

 

The button you're  pointing to  might be  a brake lock  button .  You  squeeze the brake handle  and press that button  down to  lock  if it  is .

 

 

Edited by davefrombc

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That lever your pointing to is the choke.  Forward is on and back is off.  Is it possible you had it on the whole time? 
 

As far as fingers over the rear of the carburetor yes thats what i mean but only covering half of the opening.

But check the choke first before you do anything.  This could be your problem straight away the whole time. 

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the red button is the "off/run" switch - the switch my finger is pointing to is the choke.

I think the issue has been solved, ladies - I got it to yard and started it up - it did bog down a bit but I fiddled w/ the choke and whatever happened, happened.  but that's what scares me a bit - all I did was move the choke up and down - it's in exactly the same place - maybe the carb end of the choke cable had been stuck?  trying to screw that outer plastic piece in was (verbal lubrication x10).

Frank, I removed air filter and plugged the air hole w/ 2-3 fingers while running - it shut down - couldn't breathe.

No bogging down, idles decently well - drove it through 3rd gear w/out issues.  let it set for 20 min, started it, let it warm up, no bogging down.

air/fuel pin is back to almost 2 5/8 (factory).  still hesitant to put her clothes back on but her dress was washed - she'll look pretty soon.

pic #1: underside of rear muffler - smokes a good bit here, too - does this piece having holes affect on the performance?  oughta be fun cutting through that rust

pic #2: choke switch: arrow points downward - if pulling it downward, it's going to advance the mechanism inside carb - the rod within the spring will advance into the "hole" in carb and plug this up, i'm assuming creating some type of seal; pushing the choke switch forward will retract the rod within the spring and open some important area w/in carb

pic #3: muffler pipe - this area was smoking a good bit after the brief ride - haven't removed shroud - wouldn't surprise me if it has a hole

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Lol simple choke, thats great. Awesome news on that.  The smoke that you see is it a pressurized type smoke like you can feel an exhaust leak or an oil burning on a hot exhaust type of smoke.  Reason is a lot of the time the caps that cover the valve adjustment stems will  sometimes leak over time or the valve cover gaskets.  
If its an exhaust leak you will feel it or hear it as well.   

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Moving the choke lever in the direction of the arrow is "enrichening" the mix, moving it forward/away from you is the normal, run position.

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yes, fantastic news - and a great Christmas present from all who pitched in.  great community here.  I just wish there was a place to donate cash - and I mean that - experts should be PAID for their input.  this group has likely saved me at LEAST $1000 - time, labor, diagnosing, parts, etc. - I am thankful.  and i'll likely be back for more in the future.   

 

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Your  last picture  took  all the guess work  out of identifying the  choke , brake  hold  and  kill switch. . Glad  you  found the problem and it was as simple  as the choke being on all the time .  You'll likely  find you  need to  do  a  little  more tweaking for  max performance and ending any sign  of stumbling ,  but you're  well  on the way  now..   Happy  Quadding , and   have a  Very Merry Christmas.

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Haaa!  I hope she does!  Will post video if youngest child can get video from phone to laptop.

And I may have another "project" soon (I officially have "the bug"... scary thought, I know).  A patient of mine has what he thinks is an older arctic cat - maybe early 2000 model - it's outside his home - not ridden in years - gotta inspect, get specs and see what parts are available first.

This whole process was very thorough - someone else can see exactly what we've done, step by step - try this, don't try that - and it's recorded here with pictures - it's BOUND to help someone having similar issues.

Thank you all again - you guys ROCK!

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took the KQ out for a brief spin - runs really good in this warmer weather.  got home - checked air filter just for kicks - perfect - bright yellow and dry - removed filter out and noticed water in bottom of air box.  not a lot and it didn't get the filter wet.  found drain plug, let it drain, recapped and good to go.  how the hell did water get into the sealed airbox?  I rode it near/around our lake but didn't submerge the machine (i'm not that brave) - at most I rode across 1/4 of water for about 20 feet.  the machine has been under my house in a constant 72 degree, dry environment since last summer.

lastly - any specific brands of solenoids you all like?  RM Stator's looks good and has a 2 year warranty - but I thought stens made one at one time - I cannot find stens online. 

Before putting plastics back on (always enjoyable, like getting carb out) I replaced original solenoid with new one off amazon (<$10) - put ALL the plastics back on and it lasted all of 2-3 months until the ol' clickety click click click - bottom of amazon solenoid had rust on it, so i'm imagining rust on internal magnet - tapped it good w/ hammer but couldn't get it to loosen up.  Took plastics back off, replaced with original solenoid and it's going good (at 20 years old). not gonna replace solenoid until have a reputable one - and I may put a light film of grease or permaseal around the joints to keep water out.

thoughts?

 

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Thats some good news.
 

RM stator has good products, so i would go that route. 
As far as water in the box i find it odd other then that ride you took so maybe a crack in the box? Something has to be kicking up into the box.  
 I would dry the box out and hit the bike with a hose and check it.  If not then find some puddles and take a ride and keep checking. Process of elimination I would think is whats going to get to the bottom of this. 
 

Are you sure its water and not any other fluid? 

  • Like 1

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yep - the seam at end of forceps goes all along the internal joint - I can push the box toward the rear and see the gap widening just a hair.  don't see any other visible joint spaces or fluid/moisture.  should be able to take air box out without touching carb.

gonna hit it with a hose this weekend or next to make sure that's it - but I don't have any doubts.  weird how I just wanted to check the filter and found this surprise

makes me want to leave cap off end to let water flow but don't want any critters in airbox and it may affect performance

 

so, silicone along outside joint after letting it dry for 48-72 hours?  I wouldn't think it'd be an issue putting it on inside, as well 

re: solenoid - I agree - they're $30 but will likely last a lot longer.  putting grease/permaseal on outside joints to prevent moisture won't hurt, will it?

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and yessir, it was water - no gas smell - no greasy residue

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