Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Testing help for coil on 99 bayou 300

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I had no spark issues and foundy coil was bad. Bought a caltric coil, put it on and fired right up...for bout 20 minutes then it backfired once and again, no spark. I put it on my buddies 300 and it runs.  Checked my cdi the same thing, but still no spark. Now I got my old coil and  was ohming it and got reading of .01 on primary and 11.89 from POS to plug ( meter set on 20k ) new coil reads same primary but 12.83. what gives? It tests bad but runs my buddies 300, helllllllpppp

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Ok, first things first... Happy Thanksgiving everyone and thanks for all the help and support. So, now down to the nitty gritty, found the problem, baby girl is running like brand new.  The crazy

Posted Images

It may not have anything to do with a stator or any other coil for that matter.  Could be. A short someplace that’s causing this to happen. Check the kill switch for water, a worn harness that’s rubbing against the frame allowing a conductor to Loose it’s outer vinyl and hit the frame, bad or intermittent ignition switch? 

If you still feel it is a coil then maybe check the secondary coil ? Could be getting hot and breaking down. 

The pick up coil was replaced with the stator I’m assuming since they are bundled. 

Your tests included each phase (wires coming from stator) each wire one at a time to ground for continuity? 
And phase to phase was in spec ? 



Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok from bottom up, yeah I got new stator and pickup coil, new cdi, new clatric coil cdi is OEM, pricey but didn't want to take chances, stator and pickup are caltric also and tested fine, ran fine. As for the secondary coil getting hot and messing up, it works cold fine on another 300 but diddly on mine.

I was reading about starter relay supplying some power to the cdi when cranking but, mines been pull start only for quite a while now and no problems. The coil I just replaced started the same buddies 300 but ended up being dead. It's whyi wondered what the specs were.  Contacted caltric but they wanted to know my shipping number and haven't heard from them since I sent em that. 

Are they're coils different where they'd ohm different?

I've checked litteraly every wire in the harness, it's worth the money in electrical tape to rewrap em Just to be sure everything is kosher.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Listen, no matter what your capabilities are it’s not rocket science. We have helped so many people that haven’t been able to start a lawnmower and now they are able to do  all sorts of things.  It’s a matter of isolating the problem.  

Under the seat you will find two relays. One has two bigger wires on it, one from the battery and one goes to the starter. there is  also a smaller plug on that relay and it sends power to the cdi and everything else.  That’s the start relay, it has a rubber boot around it and a fuse buried in there.
Check that and then start testing each wire for 12 v.  
The second relay is located in the same place and is round, aluminum and has four wires going to it. Green, white and two black if I can remember.    That’s the “starter Circuit” relay.  That’s coming from the neutral safety switch that’s located in the engine cover left side by the shifter. It’s a green and red wire that goes into the engine. All that does is allow the starter circuit to work because the neutral safety switch tells it that the bike is in neutral. So if you have the dash/neutral lights on then that relay should be fine. 

So turn the key on and go to the starter relay and check the fuse and have a tester ready. I’m going to pull the wire diagram and see if we can do some testing and isolate the problem. 


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so here are some important diagrams.   I’ve highlighted some stuff you need to look at.  
What I like to do is print out the main diagram and highlight all the wires with a ruler and different colors so it’s easier to absorb and see where each wire is going.  So study it for a while and get acclimated to the system. Any questions, ask away.  Start with the testing on the parts first to rule out any bad parts INCLUDING the regulator and only use a test light on the regulator test portion.  Everything else you can use a meter.  
Make sure you have the 12v on the white wire coming off the battery and the start relay has power.  Ask as many questions as you need and if you get frustrated walk away for a little while and go have a beer 🍺. Go back at it again later with a clear head.  











Link to post
Share on other sites

When you press the start button you should have 12v on the black wire plugged into the start relay there is a black and black and yellow stripe wire.    
You also have a white wire coming from the battery that goes to the ignition switch and comes  out brown. From there it spreads out and goes to the regulator, and a few other places.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Traced the white power wire to the regulator and all outgoing non-yellow(alternator) wires. My 300 has the 8 wire/ two fat round plugs, one for alternator, one for rectifier.when I checked the harness all where good and subsequent testing showed power levels,(checked against my buddies running 300,) were normal.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I get  001 ohms on the stator on every wire at 2000 and 1.0 at 200. I'm assuming that taking that down exponentially to 1 on a meter would be .005 ohms, way below spec. Houston we have a problem, bad stator I'm thinking unless exponentially dropping my reading is wrong. I'll let y'all know

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so I dug out my old analog multimeter that does 1 and 10 and got 485 ohms at the pick up coil, it says 390-590 so it ohms good, not trash like the cheap cdi I bought last year that was broke from the day it was made. The stator gives me wild fluctuations, from 0 to .4 ohms in like a second and only holds steady at 0. Thinking when ol boy put my new pick up coil in he didn't check the stator, I can get one cheap on Amazon from caltric.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Fittzy
      So I have a Polaris  predator 500 and everything works on it but not getting spark and no power going to CDI box. Please help 
    • By tomlad
      hi all first post  just found forum and the manuals / wiring diagram BIG THANK YOU
      im struggling to find the vin number on my frame? I m told left side of frame , lower, nr. in front of the gear pedal ?? haven't found it yet , is it numbers stamped on the frame or a commission plate ??
      main prob. no spark no power to coil , off to study the wiring info I've just found
      thanks again. tom
    • By Mezzy
      My 2005 Kawasaki banshee runs great, perfect at sea level and starts right up has a great idle perfect performance till I get up to 4000 feet and struggles to start won’t run hardly at all till warm. Anything I can do to the carburetor in a quick type adjustment? 
    • By Brennon Heflin
      So I bought a 2000 quad runner 250. I'm having some issues an wondering what it could be I replaced the pet cock valve an the fuel filter an pump inside tank I also put a voltage regulator on it. The problem I'm having is that when u give it half or more throttle it bogs down an loses power what could it be the bike is almost like new an cant figure it out any help would be great
    • By 406offroad
      I have a 2014 CForce 500. The front differential will not engage when the 4WD button is activated. You can hear the relay click when the button is pressed but the 4x4 doesn't engage.
      In order to get to the actuator it appears that the front differential has to be partially removed to access the bottom bolt on the actuator. Before I start disassembly, does anyone know of a source for the replacement parts?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

Daily Deals

  • Create New...