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Testing help for coil on 99 bayou 300


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Ok, so I had no spark issues and foundy coil was bad. Bought a caltric coil, put it on and fired right up...for bout 20 minutes then it backfired once and again, no spark. I put it on my buddies 300 and it runs.  Checked my cdi the same thing, but still no spark. Now I got my old coil and  was ohming it and got reading of .01 on primary and 11.89 from POS to plug ( meter set on 20k ) new coil reads same primary but 12.83. what gives? It tests bad but runs my buddies 300, helllllllpppp

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Ok, first things first... Happy Thanksgiving everyone and thanks for all the help and support. So, now down to the nitty gritty, found the problem, baby girl is running like brand new.  The crazy

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It may not have anything to do with a stator or any other coil for that matter.  Could be. A short someplace that’s causing this to happen. Check the kill switch for water, a worn harness that’s rubbing against the frame allowing a conductor to Loose it’s outer vinyl and hit the frame, bad or intermittent ignition switch? 

If you still feel it is a coil then maybe check the secondary coil ? Could be getting hot and breaking down. 

The pick up coil was replaced with the stator I’m assuming since they are bundled. 

Your tests included each phase (wires coming from stator) each wire one at a time to ground for continuity? 
And phase to phase was in spec ? 

 

 

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Ok from bottom up, yeah I got new stator and pickup coil, new cdi, new clatric coil cdi is OEM, pricey but didn't want to take chances, stator and pickup are caltric also and tested fine, ran fine. As for the secondary coil getting hot and messing up, it works cold fine on another 300 but diddly on mine.

I was reading about starter relay supplying some power to the cdi when cranking but, mines been pull start only for quite a while now and no problems. The coil I just replaced started the same buddies 300 but ended up being dead. It's whyi wondered what the specs were.  Contacted caltric but they wanted to know my shipping number and haven't heard from them since I sent em that. 

Are they're coils different where they'd ohm different?

I've checked litteraly every wire in the harness, it's worth the money in electrical tape to rewrap em Just to be sure everything is kosher.

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Listen, no matter what your capabilities are it’s not rocket science. We have helped so many people that haven’t been able to start a lawnmower and now they are able to do  all sorts of things.  It’s a matter of isolating the problem.  
 

Under the seat you will find two relays. One has two bigger wires on it, one from the battery and one goes to the starter. there is  also a smaller plug on that relay and it sends power to the cdi and everything else.  That’s the start relay, it has a rubber boot around it and a fuse buried in there.
Check that and then start testing each wire for 12 v.  
The second relay is located in the same place and is round, aluminum and has four wires going to it. Green, white and two black if I can remember.    That’s the “starter Circuit” relay.  That’s coming from the neutral safety switch that’s located in the engine cover left side by the shifter. It’s a green and red wire that goes into the engine. All that does is allow the starter circuit to work because the neutral safety switch tells it that the bike is in neutral. So if you have the dash/neutral lights on then that relay should be fine. 

So turn the key on and go to the starter relay and check the fuse and have a tester ready. I’m going to pull the wire diagram and see if we can do some testing and isolate the problem. 

 

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Ok so here are some important diagrams.   I’ve highlighted some stuff you need to look at.  
What I like to do is print out the main diagram and highlight all the wires with a ruler and different colors so it’s easier to absorb and see where each wire is going.  So study it for a while and get acclimated to the system. Any questions, ask away.  Start with the testing on the parts first to rule out any bad parts INCLUDING the regulator and only use a test light on the regulator test portion.  Everything else you can use a meter.  
Make sure you have the 12v on the white wire coming off the battery and the start relay has power.  Ask as many questions as you need and if you get frustrated walk away for a little while and go have a beer 🍺. Go back at it again later with a clear head.  

 

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When you press the start button you should have 12v on the black wire plugged into the start relay there is a black and black and yellow stripe wire.    
You also have a white wire coming from the battery that goes to the ignition switch and comes  out brown. From there it spreads out and goes to the regulator, and a few other places.  

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Traced the white power wire to the regulator and all outgoing non-yellow(alternator) wires. My 300 has the 8 wire/ two fat round plugs, one for alternator, one for rectifier.when I checked the harness all where good and subsequent testing showed power levels,(checked against my buddies running 300,) were normal.

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I get  001 ohms on the stator on every wire at 2000 and 1.0 at 200. I'm assuming that taking that down exponentially to 1 on a meter would be .005 ohms, way below spec. Houston we have a problem, bad stator I'm thinking unless exponentially dropping my reading is wrong. I'll let y'all know

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Ok so I dug out my old analog multimeter that does 1 and 10 and got 485 ohms at the pick up coil, it says 390-590 so it ohms good, not trash like the cheap cdi I bought last year that was broke from the day it was made. The stator gives me wild fluctuations, from 0 to .4 ohms in like a second and only holds steady at 0. Thinking when ol boy put my new pick up coil in he didn't check the stator, I can get one cheap on Amazon from caltric.

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