2005 Arctic Cat 250 2x4 Gas leak
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By LCP92
Guys, I've got a 1999 Honda Foreman 450S. It runs great, but smokes out the exhaust after startup until it warms up. I'm thinking the valve seals are leaking. I was wondering if there is a way to replace them without removing the head or if there's an oil additive that will recondition the rubber seals. Any advice?
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By DexKing
I recently got my hands on a free 2004 Recon that the owner had zero information on the machine or the history. Long story short, a little troubleshooting and research revealed i needed to replace the timing chain for it to stay running. when i opened the case, it the chain was so horribly stretched, that the tensioner pivot arm had play between it and the chain! I also found the oil pump chain totally disconnected from the sprocket due to being completely worn out. I tore the whole engine down and rebuilt it from the bottom up finding little things here and there that needed to be replaced. Upon inspecting the top end, i didn't find any bad/excessive play in the crank, rod bearings or wrist pin. Now the machine runs great, but even after 2x adjusting the valves, the chatter is way more than you'd expect from a honda normally. My neighbor is an auto mechanic by trade, and i asked him to take a listen. the look on his face when i started it and it was chattering like that was priceless! He mentioned that maybe the valves themselves might be wore out or stretched. my question here: what all can cause the excessive rattle up in the valve cover aside from valves being out of spec? Everything else seemed to be in decent condition as far as rockers and guides go. I am fairly new to small engine/ATV repairs, but am learning as a hobby and have a fair amount of knowledge with how to do some wrenching. Thanks!
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By Gwbarm
Have you ever been on the trail and your tire valve goes bad. No way to break down the wheel and replace it. A lot of you probably know about this already i had heard of it but never used one. Just punch out the old one insert and tighten down the nut
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By DPDISXR4Ti
I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
Thanks...
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By PolarisRich
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
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then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
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Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
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Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
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Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
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To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
Thanks Rich
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