Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Kawiherder

2004 500 cooling fan not coming on.

Recommended Posts

It starts and runs Ok but after a while the temp gage lights up and the fan fails to start.  Any suggestions on where to start looking would be helpful.  Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whats up @Kawiherder what year make and model? Im assuming Kawasaki by your name. 
That light comes on from a sensor in the top of the cylinder head that acts independently from the fan. 
If its water cooled then there is a sensor on the right side of the lower portion of the radiator. Take the two wires off that sensor and jump them together. If the fan comes on then the sensor is bad. 
If the fan does not come on then the power going to that sensor needs to be checked. Thats done by using a simple test light or tester. One of the wires on the sensor  should have 12V power on it. If not then start tracing that wire back to its source, maybe fuse or there are inline circuit breakers on the wire to the fan on some models. 

Now if you have power at the sensor and when you jump the two wires on the sensor and the fan does not come on then it could be a bad ground on the sensor or a bad fan so you have to start looking at the fan itself and the wires coming off of it. 
 

All of the above testing needs to be done with the key on. 
 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Make and model are Arctic Cat 2004 500 BTX with the Suzuki motor.  Kawiherder, aka Interceptor398 are from my sled site and collection and I have used them in more than a few places.  Your reply is the starting place I was hoping for and I thank you for that!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it simpler to remove the covers to work on this?  I can see the connector to the fan but that is about it.  I've never had one of these apart so it is a new adventure for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its always easier to work on without the plastics just not easy to take the plastics off! 
 

I  don't think you need to pull the plastics off based on the problem your having unless you need to pull the fan. Then you may need to take the front one off.  
Post a few pics of you can so we can help you along and make sire your on the right track. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First check the fan fuse to make sure its good. Your model is a liquid cooled so the sensor is mounted near the bottom of the radiator. Unplug it and with the key on, jump out the two pins on the wiring side and see if the fan comes on. If it does not, check to see if one pin has 12 volts to ground.

Typically the fan is also a 2 pin plug, you can disconnect it and run 12 volts directly to the fan to check to make sure its good.

There is also a diode in the circuit that prevents the fan from backfeeding into the wiring, this may have gone bad, on your model it shows it as an external part, on later models it was inside the wiring harness.

Mike

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pulled the connector apart an used a remote battery to power the fan directly as suggested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And ..... Does the fan spin? If so great and you  would go to the temperature switch on the radiator like @mikeexplorer mentioned.  See if one of the wires has 12+ with the key on.  If not then you have to trace the 12+ from the temperature sensor to the fuse block, there is also an in-line fuseable link in the harness on the 12+ power wire going to the temperature switch.  
Also check your ground on the fan motor.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

And ..... Does the fan spin? If so great and you  would go to the temperature switch on the radiator like @mikeexplorer mentioned.  See if one of the wires has 12+ with the key on.  If not then you have to trace the 12+ from the temperature sensor to the fuse block, there is also an in-line fuseable link in the harness on the 12+ power wire going to the temperature switch.  
Also check your ground on the fan motor.   

That is not a fusible link, it is a diode to prevent backfeeding into the electrical systems. I have seen a few cases where the diode broke since they stick it inside the wiring harness. Any generic silicon diode rated for 10 amps will do as a replacement, polarity is important.

Mike

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ordered a diode kit on Amazon and man i have to say it was worth it. $20 bucks for 80 various assorted diodes.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

is it overheating all the time or just when your using it in a tight spot (in low or pulling a load- high rpms and low speed ect) or out on the trail?  im thinking you may have a different issue as it really should depend on the fan all the time to keep cool.  the fan is for keeping air moving through the radiator when the atv is sitting or moving slowly.  also if your radiator is plugged with mud or dirt it will not cool regardless of having the fan or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the past the fan would come on after 15-20 minutes of use and only after slow speed or hard use, it seemed to run pretty cool.  Now I could plow snow for 20 minutes and the high temp light would come on but not the fan.  I would let it sit for 45 minutes and finish my plowing.  The fan would not turn on so I just use it for short times but now for cutting my firewood I need it to work properly.  When I disconnected the fan connector and put 12 volts to and the fan came on strong.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Ok so at least the motor is good, locate that sensor and jump the wires together.  If the fan comes on then the sensor is bad. 
If the fan does not come on then follow the steps as indicated in the previous messages.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i say your thermostat is bad- it would explain the fan not cutting on because the ecu wouldnt think it was too hot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It could be but the thermostat housing has a small bypass allowing coolant to flow throughout the system so there is flow to the radiator.   Plus the coolant does make it to the top end on the return side and that heat will rise to the radiator.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

It could be but the thermostat housing has a small bypass allowing coolant to flow throughout the system so there is flow to the radiator.   Plus the coolant does make it to the top end on the return side and that heat will rise to the radiator.   

yea true- didnt think about that.  shoot my sportsman 500 ran awesome with no coolant for months until i noticed the reservoir was empty and filled it up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By VikingTrad3r
      picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters.  these are great light weight little quads.
       
      have a strange one for you.  the quad will NOT start in neutral.  it will start in first. 
      if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either.  that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can.
       
      id like to carry out whatever repair is needed.  i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram.
       
      any help appreciated!  thank you.
      i need to add something.  it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral.  
      so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral.  the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
    • By billyz57
      New to Quadcrazy, Has any Yamaha owners had similar issue?
      1987 Yamaha YFM 350 Starts on Pull, but just spins on starter, and won't start.
    • By bradleyheathhays
      '96 Cherokee here and right now I'm dealing with a no start after a few weeks of suspicious symptoms. She's been driven a lot less over the past year and about a month ago she began starting a little slow. I've got an oversized battery in there so usually she cranks right up no problem. I started monitoring batt voltage and saw around 12.04 V with engine off and 14.10 V or so running. Right before I get the new battery I head to Advance and they run a battery/alternator test. Kid tells me my batt is bad but alternator is still good.

      So I lay out the $ and install the same size 34N EverStart Maxx 800 cca from Wally's and the slow start persists. Measuring the new battery with engine off yields consistent readings of just under 12.7 V, so for the past few weeks I began charging the batt at 2A which seemed to help. A few days ago I venture out for an errand and the engine doesn't restart to get me back home. I get no clicks or cranking at all with a key turn. Batt measures 12.67 V at the terminals. Dash gauges seem to react with the key on, voltmeter reading ~11.5 V, although I'm not sure how accurate that is. Fuel pump pressurizes.

      Something that happened right after battery change out, which may or may not help in diagnosing the problem, is that my pass side headlight only illuminated half way while the driver side stayed full bright. I have an LMC Truck aftermarket headlight wiring harness giving 55/100w low high beam. It's the kind where you run the lights straight off the battery through additional relays. Had to tinker with the light harness a bit to get the new batt in and may have compromised a connection? Maybe a ground? Either way the pass headlight started showing full bright after only 1 or 2 occurrences and has been right ever since. With my alternator testing good and a new battery I wondered if maybe a loose connection was draining my voltage. I was in the middle of testing batt V connected vs. disconnected over time but this no start happened before I could get it done.

      Last thing to mention is that recently I've been removing both my fuel pump and starter relays for security reasons. The way it's acting now is exactly like when trying to start with both relays removed. Being that the fuel pump is pressurizing should I consider testing the starter relay? Other than that could I have caused some kind of part failure by removing and reinstalling the relays maybe around 5-6 times over the last month?

      All ears
    • By Belmontie
      Hi all, bike does start with the electric start mostly, but the battery was weak and wouldnt start it the other day so went to use the pull start, to say its hard is an understatement first of all you gotta do a little jiggling about til it catches then pulling it takes some effort now i know im not the strongest fella in the world but this is so much harder than it should be. 
      It does start of the pull just to get the engine to initailly turn is so hard any ideas why its happening or how to fix this,
      Thanks
        
    • By yugnats
      Hi all, I was gifted this Bayou but she's been sitting quite some time. It won't crank using the factory start button but when I jumper the starter solenoid it cranks but there is no spark. The key has power coming in on the white wire and when turned on supplies power to the brown wire coming out.

      I guess I should start with testing the pickup? I heard I may be able to jumper the wires coming from the pickup with an LED bulb and it will flash? I noticed in the manual that it should have around 110 ohms resistance so I'll check that as well. One thing I noticed was that the starter circuit relay has power on one of the black wires with the key on- this doesn't seem normal as I'm assuming the black wires are grounds? I think one of them comes from the start switch, travels through the starter circuit relay and then grounds the starter relay?
      Mine is a 1991 so it has the 7 wire CDI (ignitor) and a 2 yellow wire alternator ( as opposed to the later 3 wire type ) with another 2 wires for the source coils (black & red wires ). The pickup wires are blue and black I do believe. Any help appreciated and yes I will test the pickup ASAP.

      I'm trying to understand how the system works and I don't understand what the yellow / red wire from the kill switch does- I assume it gets grounded when the kill switch is "on" and therefore grounds the CDI so it can't activate the ignition coil? I noticed in the diagram that that yellow / red wire looks like it may be grounded by the ignition key switch when in the "off" position?
      I also don't have 12v power at any of the wires going into the CDI- doesn't the CDI need to be powered? I also read on this forum that someone used a GM HEI module in place of the factory CDI just to test it for spark- does anyone have any info on that?

      I hope I'm not missing something simple!
      Here is a link to the diagram for my bike (which was posted by another user): https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/13742-1988-bayou-220-lost-spark/?tab=comments#comment-101193

      Any help appreciated!
       
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...