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Kawiherder

2004 500 cooling fan not coming on.

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It starts and runs Ok but after a while the temp gage lights up and the fan fails to start.  Any suggestions on where to start looking would be helpful.  Thanks

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Whats up @Kawiherder what year make and model? Im assuming Kawasaki by your name. 
That light comes on from a sensor in the top of the cylinder head that acts independently from the fan. 
If its water cooled then there is a sensor on the right side of the lower portion of the radiator. Take the two wires off that sensor and jump them together. If the fan comes on then the sensor is bad. 
If the fan does not come on then the power going to that sensor needs to be checked. Thats done by using a simple test light or tester. One of the wires on the sensor  should have 12V power on it. If not then start tracing that wire back to its source, maybe fuse or there are inline circuit breakers on the wire to the fan on some models. 

Now if you have power at the sensor and when you jump the two wires on the sensor and the fan does not come on then it could be a bad ground on the sensor or a bad fan so you have to start looking at the fan itself and the wires coming off of it. 
 

All of the above testing needs to be done with the key on. 
 

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Make and model are Arctic Cat 2004 500 BTX with the Suzuki motor.  Kawiherder, aka Interceptor398 are from my sled site and collection and I have used them in more than a few places.  Your reply is the starting place I was hoping for and I thank you for that!!

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Is it simpler to remove the covers to work on this?  I can see the connector to the fan but that is about it.  I've never had one of these apart so it is a new adventure for me.

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Its always easier to work on without the plastics just not easy to take the plastics off! 
 

I  don't think you need to pull the plastics off based on the problem your having unless you need to pull the fan. Then you may need to take the front one off.  
Post a few pics of you can so we can help you along and make sire your on the right track. 

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First check the fan fuse to make sure its good. Your model is a liquid cooled so the sensor is mounted near the bottom of the radiator. Unplug it and with the key on, jump out the two pins on the wiring side and see if the fan comes on. If it does not, check to see if one pin has 12 volts to ground.

Typically the fan is also a 2 pin plug, you can disconnect it and run 12 volts directly to the fan to check to make sure its good.

There is also a diode in the circuit that prevents the fan from backfeeding into the wiring, this may have gone bad, on your model it shows it as an external part, on later models it was inside the wiring harness.

Mike

 

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Pulled the connector apart an used a remote battery to power the fan directly as suggested.

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And ..... Does the fan spin? If so great and you  would go to the temperature switch on the radiator like @mikeexplorer mentioned.  See if one of the wires has 12+ with the key on.  If not then you have to trace the 12+ from the temperature sensor to the fuse block, there is also an in-line fuseable link in the harness on the 12+ power wire going to the temperature switch.  
Also check your ground on the fan motor.   

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16 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

And ..... Does the fan spin? If so great and you  would go to the temperature switch on the radiator like @mikeexplorer mentioned.  See if one of the wires has 12+ with the key on.  If not then you have to trace the 12+ from the temperature sensor to the fuse block, there is also an in-line fuseable link in the harness on the 12+ power wire going to the temperature switch.  
Also check your ground on the fan motor.   

That is not a fusible link, it is a diode to prevent backfeeding into the electrical systems. I have seen a few cases where the diode broke since they stick it inside the wiring harness. Any generic silicon diode rated for 10 amps will do as a replacement, polarity is important.

Mike

 

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I ordered a diode kit on Amazon and man i have to say it was worth it. $20 bucks for 80 various assorted diodes.   

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is it overheating all the time or just when your using it in a tight spot (in low or pulling a load- high rpms and low speed ect) or out on the trail?  im thinking you may have a different issue as it really should depend on the fan all the time to keep cool.  the fan is for keeping air moving through the radiator when the atv is sitting or moving slowly.  also if your radiator is plugged with mud or dirt it will not cool regardless of having the fan or not.

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In the past the fan would come on after 15-20 minutes of use and only after slow speed or hard use, it seemed to run pretty cool.  Now I could plow snow for 20 minutes and the high temp light would come on but not the fan.  I would let it sit for 45 minutes and finish my plowing.  The fan would not turn on so I just use it for short times but now for cutting my firewood I need it to work properly.  When I disconnected the fan connector and put 12 volts to and the fan came on strong.

 

Thanks

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Ok so at least the motor is good, locate that sensor and jump the wires together.  If the fan comes on then the sensor is bad. 
If the fan does not come on then follow the steps as indicated in the previous messages.  

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i say your thermostat is bad- it would explain the fan not cutting on because the ecu wouldnt think it was too hot.

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It could be but the thermostat housing has a small bypass allowing coolant to flow throughout the system so there is flow to the radiator.   Plus the coolant does make it to the top end on the return side and that heat will rise to the radiator.   

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18 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

It could be but the thermostat housing has a small bypass allowing coolant to flow throughout the system so there is flow to the radiator.   Plus the coolant does make it to the top end on the return side and that heat will rise to the radiator.   

yea true- didnt think about that.  shoot my sportsman 500 ran awesome with no coolant for months until i noticed the reservoir was empty and filled it up

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