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Yamaha Bear Tracker 250 Where to start?


payne

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Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

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3 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

Seeing as the parts are so cheap, I'll probably get a new relay and solenoid 

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15 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Fresh spark plug as well. 

Already got a new one in it. Next problem.....how to remove the bolts for the header. Very rusty!

4 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

Sorry to jump in about a dozen conversations behind but if the relay is clicking and it's not reliably starting it's most likely the solenoid.  The relay clicks closed and throws electricity to the solenoid to close it.  If it's not closing reliably then voltage doesn't get to the starter.  My oldest runs through solenoids constantly because of mud and water.  They get wet inside and corrode in days and then they're trashed.

Seeing as the parts are so cheap, I'll probably get a new relay and solenoid 

20200310_174407.jpg

The exhaust is swiss cheese, so it needs removed.

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Ok here's where things can go horribly wrong. 
You have to spray them down good with penetrating oil spray. Do it once and again every 6 hours for 24 hours. 
Warm the engine up and then try to back them out. 
You will get some smoke from the oil burning off.   

They will snap off and then its a whole new ball game.  

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Yes, in fact that's what i always use is a propane torch.  I hate to recommend it if the user is not familiar with it so i tell them to warm the engine up.  
 

Heres what i do: Soak them with penetrating spray and let it sit for 4  hours. Go spray again and let sit overnight. 
Next day hit it one more time with the spray and get the torch. Warm the bolts up but do not over heat. All you want to do is heat the metal enough to expand.  I try going both ways with the bolt.  
If bolts are shot when you get them out replace. 

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It works if you go slow. Rushing = broken bolts. It will come loose and when it does as it comes out go back in and out etc until its comes all the way out. The rust comes off the bolt as you back it out and can ruin threads so go back in if you feel the bolt is not coming out and spray it while doing so.  

 If by some chance the Allen head strips you can always grab the outside with a vice grip. 

Also if the exhaust pipe is shot then cut it off with a sawzall to make access a little easier to your bolts.    

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On 3/9/2020 at 9:32 PM, Frank Angerano said:

I do recommend a way to clean them up. 
Take a look at this last project i did. 
 

 

Water sand and apply a clear coat thats flexible and durable to chemicals.  

Let me know what you think. 
 

What clear coat did you use?

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16 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Go and  buy an easy out kit and drill it out with the approximate size bit and back it out.  
Heat will be key here so tread lightly.  Drill out the center of the stud carefully and go in with the easy out.   

I posted a pic of the extractors I have. Aren't those easy outs?

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I tried to remove it, but felt like it ezout was going to break off, so I just drilled the whole thing out.

I have this clearcoat that's for motorcycle plastic i believe. Wonder is this would work for the plastics? More importantly,  wonder if its flexible?

 

20200312_220540.jpg

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