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ezduzit

92 350l trailboss electrical issue need help

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So my quad will start and run pull start, i installed new battery, solenoid, ignition. the problem is

1 the starter will try but not start. the quad. 

2 when running i cannot shut it down with either the switch or the ignition i shut it down by allowing the fuel to run out.

3 no lights come on headlights or brake lights

when i turn the ignition on my neutral light works as well as the reverse indicator.

any suggestions greatly appreciated.

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Hey ez. So i want to back up for a minute and ask a few questions. 

1. Did you change all the parts at the same time or was it process of elimination ?

2. Did you use oem parts specifically the ignition switch?

3. Have you tried to pull the main ground off of the frame, cleaned and reinstalled? 
 

4. Have you tried to apply voltage directly to the starter to make sure your cranking problem is not the starter or the starter clutch? 

5. Have you checked your kill switch for continuity with a tester to make sure its closing and opening? 
 

It sounds like an aftermarket ignition switch to me but i could be wrong. 
 

Are you handy with an electrical tester?

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well a little background i got this after it had been sitting for more than ten years under a tree. a lot of dry wiring and mice had made this thing home. after cleaning it up i began with some parts simply because they were missing.

ok im not familiar with the main ground your speaking of. yes basically i replaced all those parts over a few days. when i bench tested the starter it worked.

i have a multi meter but generally dont use it.

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well i fixed some of my electrical issues. i cleaned the main ground, i installed the correct cdi box.  Havent addressed the lights not working but it just may be replacing the bulbs.

I need to check my float valve its sticking open. but hey making progress thanks for your questions they helped me, help myself and thats a good thing.

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Your very welcome. There is a topic on cleaning carburetors that's helpful. 
Be sure to post a few pics of the progress.  I like seeing old bikes that have been sitting around being brought back to life.  

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Here's a couple of pics current condition.She runs strong needs some more work and the plastics but so far so good . Ten years under atree shes responded well thus far.

20200325_145320.jpg

20200325_145331.jpg

20200325_145339.jpg

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Hey folks just wanted to share my progress. Its coming around pretty good. Motor and transmission work great. And the 4x4 is working also. Having issues with the front brakes. I installed some used brake lines but i believe they're also blocked up. Not having any success getting fluid to them.

The rear brake works but not sure about it i have to stomp on them very hard. Anyway just showing my progress at this time.

20200411_144100.jpg

20200411_144108.jpg

20200411_144120.jpg

20200411_144136.jpg

20200411_144144.jpg

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I've had 3 of those bikes '91.'92, 93and still have the 92. Electrical is usually an issue with the spade terminals in the power distribution panel under the cover to the left of the headlight. I have twice had to pull and individually clean the entire panel and connectors to rectify electrical problems in those bikes. It seems like a common issue and if it sat outside there is a good chance that a few are corroded.

The rear brakes are adjusted with the black knob sticking out of the rear caliper over top of the chain guard on the right side of the bike right beside the recoil. You can feel the pedal come up as you adjust it. It doesn't take much to get brakes back if there is pad left. Remember, the rear brake is a driveline brake and only works when it's in gear. Step on it before shifting and it won't grind into gear ; )

FYI, there is a burp valve on the top of the head that you bleed air from the cooling system with. If you ever get a leak make sure you bleed the air before you run it or you'll melt er down.

 

This is my '92

pol4.jpg

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oh...another little fyi...the starter solenoid on those bikes is in a terrible spot under yer left butt cheek. Whenever my starter acts up I clean the connections on the solenoid and she's good to go again...

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On 4/12/2020 at 6:48 PM, BrotherRockeye said:

I've had 3 of those bikes '91.'92, 93and still have the 92. Electrical is usually an issue with the spade terminals in the power distribution panel under the cover to the left of the headlight. I have twice had to pull and individually clean the entire panel and connectors to rectify electrical problems in those bikes. It seems like a common issue and if it sat outside there is a good chance that a few are corroded.

The rear brakes are adjusted with the black knob sticking out of the rear caliper over top of the chain guard on the right side of the bike right beside the recoil. You can feel the pedal come up as you adjust it. It doesn't take much to get brakes back if there is pad left. Remember, the rear brake is a driveline brake and only works when it's in gear. Step on it before shifting and it won't grind into gear ; )

FYI, there is a burp valve on the top of the head that you bleed air from the cooling system with. If you ever get a leak make sure you bleed the air before you run it or you'll melt er down.

 

This is my '92

pol4.jpg

are those factory mud guards? remember seeing them as option on 6x6 but not on the 4x4?

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They are afaik. They are considerably bigger than the ones on my '91 and '93 but look factory in every way.

Here's a little diy tip for folks wanting to extend or remake mud guards. If you cut the top ring and bottom off of a 5 gallon pail and split it up the side it will unroll to a good size for making mud guards. If you split it on an angle you can get the front taper and a little more length if you are making 2 out of 1 pail. The plastic is strong and durable and easy to work with...and pails come in a bunch of different colors so you have options.

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Posted (edited)

plastic barrels work well for larger applications like building rear fender and such.

 

for some reason I wasn't able to edit my previous post to add this info so its gonna haveta stay fractured like this...

Edited by BrotherRockeye

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