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Arizona

Honda TRX 250 No Spark

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Well got another one for the elders here. I recently picked up a Honda Trx 250

in pretty rough shape. Brought it home cleaned it up if thats possible. Motor was

seized, Pretty bad shape. I unseized the motor, got it to spin over, Got it to crank on its

own with the start button. Got neutral light, but no spark. Fuses good wiring is old but looks

intact. Went to check cdi box, here is where the problem lies, I dont know the year. The last one 

was under the plastic on the crossmember, this one has none. Looks like a  sticker was there at one time. 

I checked the left side of frame by foot peg and nothing. Cant find any vin number. I need to know the year

to try to locate a cdi. One clue is this one appears to have 2 cdi boxes. One is a little larger than the other but

plugs look identical to eachother. One has green connectors and the other has white connectors. Is this only

on certain year model that has duel cdi boxes? I also need a download for a trx 250 Im thinking its about a 1985 or 86

but just a guess. Before changing i would like to check some voltages but need a manual for this. Any guess on how to 

identify and or get a download for this one would be great. Wont let me post pics only .08 MB Down load available. Thanks in advance Az

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Ok, update. I downloaded the 85-87 Trx 250 manuel. It showes both cdi boxes but only lists 

1 as the cdi box. Not sure what the other one is. At least i have a map. Still would like to know the year

of it. Gonna have to do some back probing on the wiring when i get some time. Didnt see this download

last time i was on here. Az

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The other box is likely the voltage regulator.  I don't know  how long they  did it . but  on my 1991 Fourtrax 300 and  other models around the late '80's /  early '90's the serial is stamped into the frame cross tube  low on the  front end. The stampings aren't very deep  and are easily obscured by rust  or paint.

 

Edited by davefrombc

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The other box appears to be a warning box, maybe a driver for the oil over heat etc. 

At least that what the wiring diagram shows, I scrubbed the tube where the vin should be

but dont see anything. On my old one all i ever saw was the sticker which had the info on it but

no vin. Ill have to check again when it warms up here. Az

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Have you checked the coil, plug wire for continuity, stator output when cranking it over, stop/run/stop switch on the handlebar, etc before thinking CDI?  Bad CDI is pretty unusual but possible.  Sometimes you can bake a CDI at 250 for 5 minutes and drive off a bit of internal moisture and get them to work temporarily.  That way you know if the CDI is bad or not.  And yes, the 2nd box is an alarm box for oil temp warning.

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LOL, I have baked the cdi @ 300 for 10 min. Havent tested it since. 

Been kinda busy. I still have to check the kill switch, and voltages to see

where im at. Happy i found the other download for the wiring.  Work and 

the cold keeping me from working on it. Will report what i find. Thanks Az

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So got around to doing some checks, all stator legs seem to be grounded, not good. 

The pick up also grounded on both wires, Not sure how all are grounded but pulled off

the cover with the stator, looks ok but havent pulled it off the housing yet. Never seen one

that every wire was grounded to the body. Guess ill order new stator and go from there. Az

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Well removed the stator from the housing and then could see the damage. Must have had foreign

material get in and smashed between stator and flywheel. Has a good dent in flywheel but i think  

should be ok. Ordered new stator, will replace when it gets here and go from there. Wonder if thats

what locked the motor up and not a stuck ring, Shall see. Learning all the time. Az

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That sounds like this 85 Honda atc250es I’m working on, stator wires broke and dent in inner ID of flywheel. I believe the atc and trx almost engine. I soldered mine and now need regulator for it. The black wire is complicating the search.

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lol, no repairing this one. stator smashed into wires, tried using a chisel to separate, not 

working, Also, cover would hit frame and could not remove with out pulling motor or at 

least unbolting and jacking up. Decided to break out the die grinder and take off part of frame

by foot pedal to save a lot of work. Parts should arrive later this week. Az

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Do you remove the frame on both sides? I’m going to need clutch cover off soon for one way bearing.

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normally it clears the frame but in this case the weld on the frame was built 

up enough to keep the cover from coming off. I would try to remove it and 

see if it is gonna hit. If doing extensive work i would just unbolt the motor

to move it out of the way. Most the times it will come right off. 

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