Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have read many forum topics on this matter but have never found a similar problem. So i bought a cheap ass quad thats got all sorts of parts on it. It's a 1997(if you look the date on frame) Kawasaki KLF(Bayou) 300 EUROPEAN Model (atleast I think, since I'm from Europe), the engine is 1988 if I'm not mistaken and the CDI is 1995.-2006. ( 21119-1447, 6pin ). My problem is that I don't have spark. I would diagnose the issue but connectors from CDI to wiring harness have almost all different colors and I'm not sure if they are connected correctly (pictures below). Pickup coil is putting out around 400 ohms and is pulsing. CDI is being fed 12v by one y/r wire that is coming to connector and with 12v to one gray wire which is coming from ignition switch ( quad actually doesn't have ignition switch so I'm not sure if gray should be supplying power or not). Stator looks good cause when crancking all three yellow wires put out around 5v AC. Neutral light is also on which means the switch should be ok, if it even matters. I know it's not the ignition coil since I get no power nor any kind of pulsing to G/W wire that is coming to it ( and I even put another one on there just to check an it ended with the same result). I'm nowhere near proffesional around this type of stuff so any help would be amazing.

IMG_20210301_150922.jpg

IMG_20210301_150810.jpg

IMG_20210301_151039.jpg

IMG_20210301_151046.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites


The motor itself doesn't really matter what year, as long as the harness/CDI/etc are all in the same year run, and it looks like it does.  I'd try baking the CDI at 200 degrees or so for 5 minutes and then hook it back up and see if you get spark.  Sometimes the capacitors in those things get a bit of moisture and expand.  Drying them out a bit will sometimes tell you if the CDI is bad.  If you have spark after baking it, the CDI is bad.

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

The motor itself doesn't really matter what year, as long as the harness/CDI/etc are all in the same year run, and it looks like it does.  I'd try baking the CDI at 200 degrees or so for 5 minutes and then hook it back up and see if you get spark.  Sometimes the capacitors in those things get a bit of moisture and expand.  Drying them out a bit will sometimes tell you if the CDI is bad.  If you have spark after baking it, the CDI is bad.

Hey, thanks for answering. I have two CDI's and nothing changes when switching between them(could be that both are bad). I will try baking one tomorrow and get back to you when I try it. Only thing I'm confused about is that wire coloring is different before connectors to CDI and on the CDI itself. But maybe its okay nonetheless.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the continuity on the plug wire and boot. I had a firing problem once and it took me a couple days of wiring diagrams and multimeter work...turned out to only be a bad plug boot. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I tried baking the CDI on 200 for about 40mins and still no spark. Tested the plug wire and boot, and both have continuity. Does anyone maybe know what ohm reading I sould be getting on pickup coil? I don't have manuals so don't know exact numbers.

Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Machias_Mike
      Hi there!
      We just bought 4 acres and needed a work rig for moving stuff around and blazing trails. Been looking at buying a quad for a long time and finally got the opportunity.  Found a very good condition 1994 Kawi Bayou 300 4x4.  Runs great and seems to be in great operating condition with one little thing.
      The unit seems to have an issue with reverse.  Previous owner did tell me about it and its totally usable but the issue is annoying enough that I want to try and fix it.  Im pretty mechanical oriented so don’t think this will (hopefully) be too much of an issue.  I bought the kawasaki shop manual on ebay and should be here next Friday but wanted to get a head start on it.
       
      The issue seems to be similar to this post but I think may be more mechanical than just the switch.
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14281-1994-bayou-220-neutral-safety-switch/
       
      Here goes!
       
      Neutral light is always on when key in on position I found that the green wire coming out of the block from neutral switch is grounded to chassis.  When plugged in to switch light never turns on no matter what gear its in (and wont start). Machine can go from 1st directly into Reverse if you don’t feather it.  This is the part that that makes me want to fix it.  I feel like its dangerous and could possibly do some damage.  It usually takes 3-4 tries to 'find' neutral.   The reverse turn knob seems to be operable and cable is connected and operates the reverse 'selector' when turned.  Springs back when released both at the switch and at the 'selector' inboard of the shifter. When in reverse the red reverse light does not illuminate Based on above and looking at the post above it seems that this would indicate that the reverse stopper is 'broken' and rotated in an 'in gear' position.  I see a few posts on here where people have said it can crack.  If I plug the green wire back in and turn machine to 'on' I can move the shifter through all gears and the neutral light and reverse light stay off.  Again, to me it seems that the 'reverse stopper' is probably broken, stuck where the switch thinks its in a forward gear and the shaft is probably just spinning inside it.
       
      Am I on the right track here?
      I wanted to get a head start on this and looking at parts diagrams it looks like the part number for the 'reverse stopper' is 13091-1443, found one on ebay for $30 shipped.  I hate buying parts before tearing it down but if this is the likely culprit I would take a $30 gamble to buy it so I can have it on hand when the manual arrives.
       
      The other question I have which I hope is an easy answer is none of the parts diagrams I have found show the bevel gear gasket part number.  Can anyone tell me what the part number is for this?
       
      Many, many thanks for the info and I promise to post pics once I have it apart.
       
       

    • By BrunoNogueira91
      Hello, I am restoring a bayou 220 here in Brazil, I have a question regarding the rear brake activated by the lever on the left side. The ex-owner connected it in place of the reverse cable and as this is incorrect, could someone show me through pictures where I correctly connect the rear brake cable? Another thing, every time you reverse, is it necessary to activate the reverse key?
    • By sammyshin
      Hey so i have a 1990 bayou 220, and its missing the wiring harness so i went online and bought a bayou 300 wiring harness by mistake. Will it work if i use the 220’s cdi box and ignition coil?
    • By KDawgFPC
      I have a 2004  Kawasaki KLF300. I’m not sure What is the black/yellow, brown, and red wire wrapped together in the wire hornets of a klf300. I got it used and notice some wires not connected. They are located in the front area 

      The reason why I am asking because I’m having issues with it firing up. I cleaned the carb put new spark plugs and gas. 
    • By Gsk1500
      The clutch cover goes on and fits, but the little L chapped arm that has gear slots is concerning me.  It appears it goes to wear the clutch adjust bolts are on the cover. 
      Is there a specific way to tell how it mounts on the gears in relationship with the basket?
      I don't want to deal it up unless it's right 
  • Similar Topics

    • By ninhalo5
      Hi, I'm having a serious issue with my 99 lakota.
      Earlier today I went to go for a ride and when I put it in gear it stalled out in gear for whatever reason, now it will not go back into neutral, when trying to get it out of gear a friend and myself pushed the quad back and fourth and I managed to get the gears to shift all the up to 5th but going back down it shifted really soft into 2nd and will not get to 1st or neutral.
      So I decided to tear apart the engine, I'm reading the Clymers manual to check for things that may be wrong, I'm thinking possibly the shifter and the star gear that shifts the gears might not be connecting correctly. to even look at that I have to remove both the primary and secondary clutches.
      The Clymers manual tells me to remove the primary by first removing the recoil starter and hold the rotor bolt to unscrew the clutch bolt. When I tried that the rotor bolt broke loose, so I decided to try to hold the rotor still and that is spinning. So now both of those ideas/methods have failed and I'm plum out of ideas on how to get that nut loose, then I'll have the same issue with the nut on the secondary clutch. According to Clymers the clutch nut is torqued to 107 ftlbs the only other thing I can think of is jamming the sprockets but thats not an option cause they will more than likely break a tooth or more.
      Anyone have any ideas on what I can try to do? The way it's looking now the bike is done
      Thanks
    • By Reddguy85
      Where can I buy an after market shock to replace the rear shock? Would it be better to find someone to rebuild shock? 
    • By Machias_Mike
      Hi there!
      We just bought 4 acres and needed a work rig for moving stuff around and blazing trails. Been looking at buying a quad for a long time and finally got the opportunity.  Found a very good condition 1994 Kawi Bayou 300 4x4.  Runs great and seems to be in great operating condition with one little thing.
      The unit seems to have an issue with reverse.  Previous owner did tell me about it and its totally usable but the issue is annoying enough that I want to try and fix it.  Im pretty mechanical oriented so don’t think this will (hopefully) be too much of an issue.  I bought the kawasaki shop manual on ebay and should be here next Friday but wanted to get a head start on it.
       
      The issue seems to be similar to this post but I think may be more mechanical than just the switch.
      https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14281-1994-bayou-220-neutral-safety-switch/
       
      Here goes!
       
      Neutral light is always on when key in on position I found that the green wire coming out of the block from neutral switch is grounded to chassis.  When plugged in to switch light never turns on no matter what gear its in (and wont start). Machine can go from 1st directly into Reverse if you don’t feather it.  This is the part that that makes me want to fix it.  I feel like its dangerous and could possibly do some damage.  It usually takes 3-4 tries to 'find' neutral.   The reverse turn knob seems to be operable and cable is connected and operates the reverse 'selector' when turned.  Springs back when released both at the switch and at the 'selector' inboard of the shifter. When in reverse the red reverse light does not illuminate Based on above and looking at the post above it seems that this would indicate that the reverse stopper is 'broken' and rotated in an 'in gear' position.  I see a few posts on here where people have said it can crack.  If I plug the green wire back in and turn machine to 'on' I can move the shifter through all gears and the neutral light and reverse light stay off.  Again, to me it seems that the 'reverse stopper' is probably broken, stuck where the switch thinks its in a forward gear and the shaft is probably just spinning inside it.
       
      Am I on the right track here?
      I wanted to get a head start on this and looking at parts diagrams it looks like the part number for the 'reverse stopper' is 13091-1443, found one on ebay for $30 shipped.  I hate buying parts before tearing it down but if this is the likely culprit I would take a $30 gamble to buy it so I can have it on hand when the manual arrives.
       
      The other question I have which I hope is an easy answer is none of the parts diagrams I have found show the bevel gear gasket part number.  Can anyone tell me what the part number is for this?
       
      Many, many thanks for the info and I promise to post pics once I have it apart.
       
       

    • By jacked_72
      The front wheels of my quad have a ton of slop.  Its the spindle as shown in the picture.  There appears to be an outer plastic bushing of some sort and then an inner metal hollow rod that the attaching bolt goes through.  The slop in between the inner attaching bolt and the hollow rod going through the plastic bushings.  I see kits for bushings for sale, but I have not found just the spindle parts.  The length of the spindle where this bushing goes through is about 80mm.  Does anyone have a source for these parts that you could point me to?
      Thanks.

    • By Ajmboy
      Here is the Polaris online parts catalog, looks like you need to register with then first. I haven't used it since I'm not a Polaris owner and don't need any parts right now...
      http://parts.polarisind.com/Browse/Browse.asp
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...