Kawasaki Bayou wiring problem

[Leski991]

Hello,

I have read many forum topics on this matter but have never found a similar problem. So i bought a cheap as* quad thats got all sorts of parts on it. It's a 1997(if you look the date on frame) Kawasaki KLF(Bayou) 300 EUROPEAN Model (atleast I think, since I'm from Europe), the engine is 1988 if I'm not mistaken and the CDI is 1995.-2006. ( 21119-1447, 6pin ). My problem is that I don't have spark. I would diagnose the issue but connectors from CDI to wiring harness have almost all different colors and I'm not sure if they are connected correctly (pictures below). Pickup coil is putting out around 400 ohms and is pulsing. CDI is being fed 12v by one y/r wire that is coming to connector and with 12v to one gray wire which is coming from ignition switch ( quad actually doesn't have ignition switch so I'm not sure if gray should be supplying power or not). Stator looks good cause when crancking all three yellow wires put out around 5v AC. Neutral light is also on which means the switch should be ok, if it even matters. I know it's not the ignition coil since I get no power nor any kind of pulsing to G/W wire that is coming to it ( and I even put another one on there just to check an it ended with the same result). I'm nowhere near proffesional around this type of stuff so any help would be amazing.

[MarkinAR]

The motor itself doesn't really matter what year, as long as the harness/CDI/etc are all in the same year run, and it looks like it does.  I'd try baking the CDI at 200 degrees or so for 5 minutes and then hook it back up and see if you get spark.  Sometimes the capacitors in those things get a bit of moisture and expand.  Drying them out a bit will sometimes tell you if the CDI is bad.  If you have spark after baking it, the CDI is bad.

[Leski991]

4 hours ago, MarkinAR said:

The motor itself doesn't really matter what year, as long as the harness/CDI/etc are all in the same year run, and it looks like it does.  I'd try baking the CDI at 200 degrees or so for 5 minutes and then hook it back up and see if you get spark.  Sometimes the capacitors in those things get a bit of moisture and expand.  Drying them out a bit will sometimes tell you if the CDI is bad.  If you have spark after baking it, the CDI is bad.

Hey, thanks for answering. I have two CDI's and nothing changes when switching between them(could be that both are bad). I will try baking one tomorrow and get back to you when I try it. Only thing I'm confused about is that wire coloring is different before connectors to CDI and on the CDI itself. But maybe its okay nonetheless.

[MarkinAR]

Check the continuity on the plug wire and boot. I had a firing problem once and it took me a couple days of wiring diagrams and multimeter work...turned out to only be a bad plug boot. 

[Leski991]

Well, I tried baking the CDI on 200 for about 40mins and still no spark. Tested the plug wire and boot, and both have continuity. Does anyone maybe know what ohm reading I sould be getting on pickup coil? I don't have manuals so don't know exact numbers.

[davefrombc]

There is a repair manual in the forum's download section.

 

[Leski991]

Yeah, I will search the forum so I could help somebody maybe and rack up those 10 comments so I could download it.

[Smoky73]

I'm having same problem. Got a klf 220 engine unknown year. But the wiring harness I bought the wires aren't hooking up correctly. Does anyone know if you can use a different cdi. I can't find the wiring diagram for the engine anywhere

[Savage3]

You can test the CDI for a short by isolating from circuit. Then test for continuity between the ground wire and the other wires. If there is continuity,  then the CDI has shorted.

Is the CDI for a DC or AC? Are the others you used while testing,  AC or DC?

What was the reading when you tested the trigger coil? How much AC voltage?

[Savage3]

On 5/5/2021 at 4:43 AM, Smoky73 said:

I'm having same problem. Got a klf 220 engine unknown year. But the wiring harness I bought the wires aren't hooking up correctly. Does anyone know if you can use a different cdi. I can't find the wiring diagram for the engine anywhere

You need to determine whether it is a DC or AC CDI.  Remember,  simply because you lost spark does not necessarily  mean the CDI is the problem. Could be low voltage, poor ground, bad trigger, bad kill switch...etc

[Goingforbroke250]

Im Having very similar issues with a 94 bayou 400. Single spark, then nothing. What kind of reading should you get off the pickup coil??? Any special techniques to testing it? Mine has nothing with the key off, with the key on it sits at 122 ohms, with it hooked up to nothing, which I thought was odd. When cycling the engine the reading was 5-550. 

[Savage3]

5 volts from stator is way too low!

[Goingforbroke250]

On 6/6/2021 at 1:40 PM, Savage3 said:

5 volts from stator is way too low!

Then what should it be???

[MarkinAR]

Stator output is not constant as it is RPM dependent. Likely minimum would be at or above 12V with high RPM pushing it to quite a bit higher with the regulator keeping the system around 13ish so it doesn't burn the electronics out. 

[LeWayne]

Cdi 211191369 wiring diagram

[degosh]

On 6/9/2021 at 10:36 PM, MarkinAR said:

Stator output is not constant as it is RPM dependent. Likely minimum would be at or above 12V with high RPM pushing it to quite a bit higher with the regulator keeping the system around 13ish so it doesn't burn the electronics out. 

This is great information. 12V from from the battery? 

[Savage3]

15 hours ago, degosh said:

This is great information. 12V from from the battery? 

From rectifier to battery is what they are referring to. 13 to 14.5 volts or so is normal. About a half volt from pick up etc....check out specifics in the service manual

[MarkinAR]

On 4/30/2022 at 7:50 PM, degosh said:

This is great information. 12V from from the battery? 

Savage3 is correct, battery will be somewhere over 12V, under 14.5V, normally.  If you measure direct from the stator before the regulator, it could be anywhere from 12V to a crap ton of volts.  That's what the regulator is there for, to keep it in the target range.  service manual will have the appropriate voltage output range.