Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

95 king quad 300 clutch question?


raythomas
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I hate to ask a really stupid question but I've done all sorts of google searches and can't find any rock solid answer to my question.

I realize my 95 model king quad has two different "clutch" units on it. One consist of several plates of fiber discs mixed with steel plates whereas the other clutch is a centrifical clutch that uses springs and weights to engage and disengage. My question is, what is the purpose of each of these? I sorta understand the spring and weights clutch but haven't the foggiest idea of what the other one does with the stack of fiber discs and plates. If you can explain this it would be great.

Thanks

Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The two of them combine to make a semi-auto, with the centrifugal clutch taking the place of a hand lever operated manual clutch and simply engages based on RPMs. The stack of steel discs and pressure plates is the same in manual and semi-auto. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but this is how I understand it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I'm assuming then, that if the quad seems a little sluggish to start off, like the clutch is slipping that its the centrifugal clutch that needs replacing? Can you just replace the weights and springs like on other quads or do you have to purchase the whole clutch as an assembly?

Thanks
Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By coyote56
      Background on this Quad.
      Over the past year or so I have been teaching my 7 year old Niece to ride. She loves it, I even went as far as buying her a 2012 Arctic Cat 90cc and getting it up and running. We have a bond, her dad (my cousin) is a deadbeat junkie who abandoned her mother as soon as he found out she was pregnant, so my family has all been helping her over the years. I didn't have a dad or a father figure growing up. That hurts and I didn't want her to feel that way, so I have been taking her fishing, to ball games, aquarium etc etc and now it has progressed into riding four wheelers. So after stopping by the family farm and observing and seeing what I was doing and watch us ride one of our old retired farm hands approached me with something interesting. It seems a few years ago he was making his rounds around his old family farm and came across an abandoned four wheeler in the creek bed on his property. He called the Sheriff, they came and got it and took it. A few weeks later they bring it back to him. They ran the serial numbers, it has/had never been reported stolen. Since it was never reported stolen and it was on his property, as far as they were concerned it was his. He put it in his barn and its been there for 4/5 years now. It was mine if I wanted it. Naturally I jumped at it and picked it up..
      Turns out it was a 1997 Suzuki Quad Runner 250 4x4. A bike exactly like the one I had as a teenager. I have decided I want to rebuild and restore it as much as possible to what it was rolling off the factory floor. Maybe I am a little bias but  I think these were some of the best quads ever built. The four wheel drive transmission has always been cool as hell to me. Anyway this is going to be my rebuild thread on the bike.
      These photos are from the day I brought it home. The front half of the plastic is in great shape. The back, has been destroyed, I am looking for a replacement. Since the day I have brought it home I have ordered a replacement stock airbox system, a cover for the battery box and a rebuild kit for the carb.



    • By Hagbard
      Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there... 
       
      Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!" and hauled ass to this dude's house with 3 crisp Benjamins to wave under his nose. Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co.
      Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional (for long). Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads!

       
      Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it. The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes. Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles.

       
      PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much. And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged.  So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery. Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing. Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. put everything back together again, turned the key, got green light, and starter cranked! Then nothing again. Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Thing was full of powdered remains of spade terminals, so I installed a NOS replacement model from RADIO SHACK that had been swimming around in my toolbox for nigh a decade. Sure of my fix, I tried the starter again, and NOTHING again. More fiddling revealed that the OTHER fuse holder (15A) was the same. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good.
       
      Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb!
       

       
      So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do. I'm thinking maybe he wiped down the OUTSIDE of the thing, and was shocked that it had little to no result. That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match.   A quick perusal of the Amazon bargain bin turned up a carb (BST31SS) and non-vacuum petcock for $25, with a caveat that the carb required minor modifications to fit. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins. Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it. Safety first, amirite?
       
      Now with definite spark, and reliable fuel delivery, I started cranking and fiddling with the idle and air screws, managed to get it to fire up - almost literally~ There was a LOT of smoke coming from near the exhaust port on the head, thought I had loose header studs for a minute, then realized it was just more of the old oil mud I had missed while cleaning, burning off between the fins on the head and the exhaust heat shield.
       
      First fire up - lots of smoke
       
      While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little.
       
      Testing reverse
       
      Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Oops.  Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Here's the quad, up on the lift, minus the LF wheel (due to a seized cylinder I've since replaced) with range set to HIGH, and Differential Lock engaged. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire  Dog under the tire. Again. I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues.
       
      Testing Diff Lock in High Range
       
      Put the wheel cylinder in, (Dorman w38750 for a 1991 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift was a precise fit and only $10) to replace this crusty POS:
       

      put the wheel and hub back together, put seat back on and fired it up. Made sure it would start again after turning it off.
       
      Long Live The King
       
      All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet (it came with a 145 installed, which I swapped out for the 120 OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but 145 seems like a big jump.
       
      I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week. Pretty sure it's going to be yellow, no camo or green bullshit for me thanks   Hope you didn't hate my post.
    • By DeadEye_J
      Hi guys, first post here.
      I have a Big Bear 350 that I purchased for yard work. First job was to drag a small harrow around with to level my back yard. I bought it used, worked fine on the test ride around the neighborhood. I've never licensed it or taken it on any trail rides. I've literally put less than two miles on it. Almost all the work was done in 1st or 2nd gear in low range.
      As I was dragging the harrow, it began getting progressively harder to shift, even with the motor off. It's like something was out of alignment internally and binding up. Now I can't get it to shift at all. The shifter feels like it won't move through the full range to complete a shift, like something is blocking it.
      I already know I got screwed on the deal. What do you think it's going to take to fix? Common issue?
      Thanks
    • By Thortobe
      Hi to everyone! I have problem with my 2012 KQ 750 axi So the problem is that everytime when go to the L gear 4wd, atv starts to sputter, like seen on this video     This problem does not happen when in H gear 4wd or 2wd So, tried the same eliminate the 15-th pin (red-green wire) and…it did, works only when atv is riding on dry conditions. Took the pin out of the socket, did not cut it. Today went to drive in swamp and when i used L or R gear it sputters and the only way to drive is to use override button. So, i`m pretty sure that the problem is moisture/water but where is the specific wire or connection?!?! Some guys have told that voltage regulator near gas tank might be the problem, some have said that buy a new sparkplug wire and so on… Has anybody ideas where to start looking? Thanks for thinking with me!
    • Check out with coupon code "BF15" to save 15% Off over $119 for Black Friday Shopping Gala 2021 on Kemimoto
    • By Richard1234
      I picked up a Big Bear 350 and took it out for my initial drive.  Runs good but noticed that sitting in neutral the rpm would slowly increase so that shifting into gear produced a strong jerk forward, and then revs would stay down.  It seemed worse as it warmed up.  Happened every time I let it sit a while idling in neutral.  (It also seemed to make reverse hard to engage.) 
      Is this typical, or is it a carb issue, or is it a clutch adjustment issue?  Any advice appreciated. 
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Puda
      I have 2006 king quad 300 keeps fowling plug any suggestions??
    • By k1ngquad
      I have a small oil leak from the valve cover. Doesn't affect the oil level, more of an annoyance as it creates smoke from burning off the exhaust pipe. I can't seem to find a replacement valve cover gasket, so I'm curious if it even has a valve cover gasket. If not, any ideas on why it would leak?
    • By rolorox
      I got a 1996 300 king quad 4x4 wondering if a 1998 500 king quad engine will fit and will it hook up to the 300 transmission thanx
    • By smitht18
      Looking for the rectifier.  Most bikes have near magneto.  It appears the KQ has it in front.
      Can someone tell me exactly where it is? 
      Bike not charging and magneto checks out ok
    • By Ed Zeppeli
      Hi,
      Oddly I'm having  a hard time ordering front brake shoes for my '98. 
      I'd appreciate recommendations on decent, widely available shoes if possible. Ideally available in Canada on short notice.
       
      Thanks much,
       
      Warren
  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...