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300 King Quad carb options


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Oh, btw, it is a 94-97 model. 300cc +/- (280cc)???

A great quad otherwise. New tires. Tight u joints and CV joints. Repacked and new boots. Other than a harsh couple tumbles down a mountain side that bent my bar and racks, a real sweet machine.

I'd really like to end the carb issues. I only run non ethanol gas, and Rotella 15-40 engine oil.

I keep the filters changed and have a good paper filter in the fuel line. I rebuilt the fuel pump and petcock.

The front diff has been drained and refilled with proper gear oil. 

I do need to seal up the exhaust. I mounted an automotive muffler I found that fit and had the correct size inlet pipe. I have leaks where it meets the header pipe. 

Edited by Nessmuk
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Almost any aftermarket carb you buy (chinese or otherwise), will need a bit of tuning to suit the bike, so why don't you just clean and adjust the carb you have ?

Chinese carbies are no worse or better than any other.. Do you have a specific problem with the running of the bike ? Perhaps we can diagnose and suggest what to check/adjust.


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Well, none of the rebuild kits fit 100%, and the needle valve seats don't remove (pressed in), and they come with one of two different sizes of choke threads.

I never get a wide open throttle. It starts sputtering.

Right now it needs full choke to run.  This carb was fine until it got junk in it, despite a good paper filter.  I dissembled it and cleaned it, (Ultrasonic cleaner and air). 

I had about 50 paper filters I bought in bulk that came apart in the ethanol fuel. It's not one of those. 

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Well if it was fine till it got dirty, and it didn't come right after a clean, I'd have to suspect it needs to be stripped, cleaned, and reassembled again..

But.., are you sure that there isn't an air leak between the carb and engine ? That sometimes happens after a bit of carb work, and gets overlooked in the belief it's a carby problem still.

 As far as the rebuild goes, the jets are presumably the right sizes since it used to run, and so the problem now is either that there is still a jet or two with blockages, or the assembly was not done right.. Perhaps the float level needs adjusting, or the slide needle is not set right.



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Cheap paper filters do not hold up well with fuel pump engines, but if you have cleaned the carb with the same issues that's beside the point. Not real familiar with your carb but there sometimes are hidden jets and dirty emulsion tubes, if they are removable, I have cleaned carbs and cleaned before and never any change until I removed the tube sometimes they won't come out so you have to try and make sure the cleaner gets down in there or use something like berry man in your ultrasonic cleaner. I don't like to do that because it makes the metal darker but for last resort it does work.

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  • 2 weeks later...

In my expierience the factory manual setting is just a starting point to get it running once running if good that's great, but there are other variables that affect it also age and wear of engine, I adjust mine by ear . Set it to factory specs get it running turn it left slowly until the engine slows or starts running badly, then turn it right until the same thing happens and somewhere in between the two points when the engine is running the fastest and smoothest is the sweet spot. Sometimes the best running position with the engine warm results in hard starting when cold so may have to enrich the mixture a little. 

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  • 2 months later...

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