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Well, I bought the Axis 500 sold at Lowes for $8999 a couple days ago. This post will be about my impressions as I use, fix, and abuse the machine. I will add to the post as I gain experience with it.
Thanks to other posters on this site warning of new machines with loose hardware, one of my first actions was to crawl all over it checking fluids and connections. Zirks were all freshly greased, fluids in engine, and gear boxes were up to level. One of the little gas struts that help lift the bed to dump was dangling with only one end connected, and the other strut had not been fully tightened.
Here are some things I don't like:
The rear gearbox does not have a differential in it. It is essentially a solid axle. Tight turns on lawn will leave tracks, and turns are not as tight on pavement. In my case this won't matter much, but if you plan to use it on a lawn, this will create tracks on turns.
To check engine oil you need to remove both front seats and a plastic cover. This according to the manual. I'm pretty sure it can be checked with that stuff in place, either from under or above, but that remains to be seen.
I am not used to a CVT transmission. I am used to a clutch and multiple gears. This one requires giving it plenty of gas out of the hole and then backing off to get it to shift up. I'm sure I will get used to it, but I'd like to be able to take off quietly if I want to.
The doors have bungie cords to act as springs to close them. I removed the driver door so I would not need to fight the constant pressure to close. Problem solved. I will leave the passenger door as is. Gotta keep the grandkids safe.
The status display is hard to read if the sun is on it.
Here is some stuff I like:
I was concerned about there being enough torque to slowly climb a steep hill. There is. I will elaborate more on this when I've had it on my steeper trails.
The display has dedicated lights to indicate status of gear position, low oil pressure, over temp, and a bunch of other stuff. This helps a beginner with feedback that an action taken was successful.
The sparsity of knobs on the tires dig in well on most surfaces. I bet they wear out fast on pavement.
The tilt bed has a tail gate that is easy to operate. Much like early Japan pickups.
Steering is responsive and little slack. Remains to be seen how long to get loose since the u-joints are operating at quite sharp angles.
Seats are pretty nice. Will be interesting to see how long it will take me to poke a screw driver though them.
Seat belts are included to hold grand kids in. Won't go over 5 mph if both aren't buckled. Yeah, it works to buckle them empty. Doing this leaves the belt high on back, so you don't have to sit on it.
Hauling it home, my trailer wheel wells were too close together to clear the tires of the UTV. This required driving it off center a bit, with one set of tires inside the wells and one side driving over the wheel well. Creeping over the one well required climbing a 10 inch vertical well. The ability to lock the front axle differential kept both front wheels pulling as I drove the one side up and over the wheel well. The guys at Lowes were impressed. They won't touch any but an unobstructed flat trailer loading.
As I gain more experience I will add to this topic,
Finally getting around to the Yamaha Big Bear that followed me home in August. It is a mess. I got it off of marketplace, the add stated " runs like nothing is wrong the only thing that's wrong is it needs a new wiring harness". So iv been looking for a new wiring harness although it came with a wiring harness that was out of the bike, so I assumed he had ripped it out. All the plastics were off and no screws or bolts to reinstall but they were in good shape. The coil, voltage regulator and starter solenoid was missing but came with new one. So I go out expecting to start installing the wiring harness and find out its still in tact with these parts missing. The first thing I found was the engine was stuck and there was no spark plug in it. I noticed when I bought it that the pull starter wouldn't rotate the engine but he assured me the engine wasn't stuck that there was something wrong with the pull starter, I was skeptical but took him at his word. I didn't check it that closely because I was really just buying it for the tires and wheels they were worth twice what I paid for the bike. Im a little new at buying on marketplace and am just angry that someone would lie like that, now I don't know if anything is really wrong with the wiring harness, im probably too trusting I usually trust people until they give me a reason not too. I would have bought it anyway, if I go to the trouble of hooking up my trailer and wench and driving there its coming home with me, long as its a Honda or Yamaha I can fix it. It took PB Blaster about 24 hr and I got the engine freed up, and it has good compression, using ye ole thumb over the hole test, and the pull starter works fine Thats enough of that, now for my real question, before I go to the trouble of chasing the wiring problem down I would like to see if the engine is ok , is there anyway to feed voltage directly into the cdi to make it spark.
We just bought 4 acres and needed a work rig for moving stuff around and blazing trails. Been looking at buying a quad for a long time and finally got the opportunity. Found a very good condition 1994 Kawi Bayou 300 4x4. Runs great and seems to be in great operating condition with one little thing.
The unit seems to have an issue with reverse. Previous owner did tell me about it and its totally usable but the issue is annoying enough that I want to try and fix it. Im pretty mechanical oriented so don’t think this will (hopefully) be too much of an issue. I bought the kawasaki shop manual on ebay and should be here next Friday but wanted to get a head start on it.
The issue seems to be similar to this post but I think may be more mechanical than just the switch.
Neutral light is always on when key in on position I found that the green wire coming out of the block from neutral switch is grounded to chassis. When plugged in to switch light never turns on no matter what gear its in (and wont start). Machine can go from 1st directly into Reverse if you don’t feather it. This is the part that that makes me want to fix it. I feel like its dangerous and could possibly do some damage. It usually takes 3-4 tries to 'find' neutral. The reverse turn knob seems to be operable and cable is connected and operates the reverse 'selector' when turned. Springs back when released both at the switch and at the 'selector' inboard of the shifter. When in reverse the red reverse light does not illuminate Based on above and looking at the post above it seems that this would indicate that the reverse stopper is 'broken' and rotated in an 'in gear' position. I see a few posts on here where people have said it can crack. If I plug the green wire back in and turn machine to 'on' I can move the shifter through all gears and the neutral light and reverse light stay off. Again, to me it seems that the 'reverse stopper' is probably broken, stuck where the switch thinks its in a forward gear and the shaft is probably just spinning inside it.
Am I on the right track here?
I wanted to get a head start on this and looking at parts diagrams it looks like the part number for the 'reverse stopper' is 13091-1443, found one on ebay for $30 shipped. I hate buying parts before tearing it down but if this is the likely culprit I would take a $30 gamble to buy it so I can have it on hand when the manual arrives.
The other question I have which I hope is an easy answer is none of the parts diagrams I have found show the bevel gear gasket part number. Can anyone tell me what the part number is for this?
Many, many thanks for the info and I promise to post pics once I have it apart.
Need new tires for mostly plowing and running around. Found some good tires.
specs call for front 26-8-12 Rear 26-11-12
Has anyone put 27-9-12 & 27-11-12 as more of selections going up on front and taller
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