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Kawasaki Brute Force 200 same as Kymco MXU 270


jpz

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Hello all,

I am working on a MXU 270 and having the hardest time finding information. I recently saw a youtube video that claims the MXU 270 is mechanically the same as the Bruteforce 300. Can anyone confirm?

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I have heard the same thing, also the smaller arctic cats, Polaris and Canam are the same as well. Kymco (Korean) has really stepped up their game lately, from what Im told they are very good ATV

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I am trying to find a workshop manual, and it seems that finding anything for Kymco is tough. 

I was hoping if I could find one for Kawasaki that would be close enough (assuming they are mechanically the same).

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The issue I am having with this one is not starting. 

The owner told me the gas is 5-6 months old. I also know it was not treated. 

I assumed clogged fuel lines or carburetor. I have drained the tank, and carb.

I did pull the coil and bench test  and was surprised how weak of a spark it produced, so even though I suspect a fuel issue I would love to verify the coil with some resistance readings, hence my reason for wanting a workshop manual.

Alternatively if anyone here has had a reason to check their coil on a bench test, or just putting the plug against the head I would be curious what level of spark they see. I had to dim the lights in my garage to see the spark.

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You can check the resistance readings on the coil to see if its up to spec. Put your meter on OHMs touch the one small terminal with one lead and the mounting tab to the other for primary resistance it should be .1-.2 . Secondary resistance touch the spark plug boot to the small terminal set your meter to M OHM it should be 6000-10000 OHMs.

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Gas should be OK if it really just a few months old, if carb has sat for any length of time with ethanol gas you should pull the carb and clean it, it gets a jelly looking substance in the bowl and stops up the jets, but that takes longer than 5 or 6 months, yours may be OK but wouldn't hurt to check.

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Lots of modern machines with resistor leads or caps have a very thin spark, and often don't show up so good in bright light. As long as the spark is blue and not yellow it will be ok.

Sparks can be produced but then lost by shorting down the side of the spark plug porcelain if the cap or rubber boot is cracked, wet or dirty.

Spark can look fine, and jump the gap when the plug's resting on the head testing it, but not jump the gap when there is compression. It takes a lot better spark to jump through compressed air.

Stale fuel can foul sparkplugs without the engine even starting up. Just a few ignitions of old stale fuel while trying to start them, and a slow burn inside the cylinder, and a brand new plug can be fouled. 

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