Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

1985 Suzuki LT230GE Quadrunner Key Positions


86096
Go to solution Solved by Parham,

Recommended Posts

I have a 1985 Suzuki lt230ge with electric start.  It has a keyed ignition.  The key, once inserted will move to two positions.  There is a button on the left handlebar to engage the starter... so what do the two key positions do.  Anyone know???? I am looking forward to getting to enjoy this machine but I can't find a lot of info online about such a classic ATV.  Thanks in advance for any advice!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Admin changed the title to 1985 Suzuki LT230GE Quadrunner Key Positions
  • 2 weeks later...

Okay... today hopefully will be a good one.  I have installed a new air filter (critters ate the old one), new spark plug and I have rebuilt the carb with a new rebuild kit.  I have figured out  (I hope) the fuel, drain and vent lines.  I now have to try and figure out why the neutral light is not illuminating, which prevents the starter from working.  Hopefully the neutral switch is dirty or stuck.  I can then hopefully get it to start and, fingers crossed, a test ride.  I'll post my results!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah i have one that quit working also, as long as i have had it it would take a while for the neutral light to come on, like about 5 seconds after i got it in neutral my light would come on. Now its not coming on at all, i was going to just replace the switch but its under the engine cover. So i decided to try and clean all the wires going down to it first, and check the bulb for corrosion in the socket. Still havent got around to doing that , but i think thats what causes a lot of the neutral light problems.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have reviewed a wiring diagram for a similar model... it appears that the neutral switch will ground when in neutral... I checked it with a meter and it does indeed ground when in neutral.  I had the ATV running and the wheels were not turning when revving the engine, and when I shifted it through the gears the back wheels would indeed spin so it was definitely in neutral.  I took out the neutral switch relay and bench tested it... works perfect.  I did find one corroded terminal on the relay but cleaning it did not resolve my 'no neutral light' issue.   I will have to go through the harness to see if there are any other bad connections, or perhaps a critter munched through something while it was sitting for all those years.  I have to think it's gonna be something simple... just gotta find it.  This is indeed making me crazy.  The engine runs amazing, idles low and is responsive when you throttle it up.  I have all the body panels, the front and rear carry racks, the seat and the right rear wheel off.  I want to fix this issue before I put all these parts back on.  But I wanna ride it NOW!!!  Patience pays... I'll get it sorted and then it will be perfect!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been studying the wiring diagram again (although not for my exact model but similar enough I hope).  The neutral light is indeed in series with the reverse switch.  I think I might need to ensure the reverse switch is operating properly.  Perhaps its stuck or not properly adjusted.  The ATV sat unused for about 15 years... wouldn't surprise me a bit if it is stuck.  I can't wait to get back to it and check it and the power wires.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I've got books from 88 on and they are all basically the same. Here's a picture which explains better how the reverse switch works.

I think I'd try jumping/bypassing the start relay to see whether the problems is in the relays trigger circuit, or after the relay and going to the start solenoid..

The relay works like this.. The power going through the key and kill switches goes into the relay at the O wire, and needs to short out to earth via the neutral switch to work/connect the start button to the start solenoid. The neutral light though puts power to the relay's L wire when the L wire isn't getting shorted to earth through the neutral switch. That means the relay has 12v on both sides of it's coil unless the neutral switch is shorting the L wire to earth, and so the coil doesn't energize. The reverse switch is a normally closed switch with the L/b and L wires connected in every gear position except reverse. When it's in reverse the L/r and L get connected so the reverse light comes on via the reverse and neutral switches because the bike can't select reverse unless it's in neutral and so the neutral switch is shorted to earth. When it's in reverse the relay has 12v on both sides of it's coil again via the neutral light same as when it's in gear and the neutral switch is open circuit.

Notice though that the L/b wire going from the neutral light to the start relay branches off as a L wire to the relay.. the same colour as the neutral switches wire.. but it's not the same wire. That's perhaps what's catching you out.

Hope that helps, ask if there's anything confusing.. haha.. It confuses me and I wrote it.

output.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/26/2023 at 1:28 PM, Gwbarm said:

Yeah i have one that quit working also, as long as i have had it it would take a while for the neutral light to come on, like about 5 seconds after i got it in neutral my light would come on. Now its not coming on at all, i was going to just replace the switch but its under the engine cover. So i decided to try and clean all the wires going down to it first, and check the bulb for corrosion in the socket. Still havent got around to doing that , but i think thats what causes a lot of the neutral light problems.  

I wonder if the reverse switch or the neutral switch are 'sticky' and it takes a while for the switch to slowly change positions.  I'm gonna check my switches for that possibility since it sat for many many years without being used and possibly the switches are gummed up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Mech... The explanation and that diagram of the starting system circuits is super helpful... I should be able to trace out the problem lickety split with that.  Thanks a million.  And thanks also to everyone that piped up with some brilliant ideas for what to check for and test!  I can't wait to get back at it!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By dlgg7
      I've had this for probably 15 years. It ran great till 4-5 years ago, mainly riding the grandkids around our fields, till it wouldn't start. It sat for a couple of years till I bought a new battery, but couldn't get it to even hit, so rebuilt the carb, put on a new fuel pump, but no go, so it's sat. Several days ago, charged battery, cranked over and it started??? OK, idles good, but won't rev up, so emptied gas tank, flushed out and filled w/good 93 octane, pulled pump line from carb and have good full line of fuel cranking over. New spark plug, good spark, old one black BAD! Oil change, adjusted valves, no difference. Pulled carb and took apart and cleaned, didn't find any clogs or crusted up inside. Now I've had the carb back off probably 6 times checking, double checking anything I can think of. No gas blowing back in air box. It idles good, can increase throttle up some then starts popping and dropping rpms off and if I don't let off the throttle, it'll die. I've read for 3 days now MECHs and RANDY walking several thru tracing the same problem, tried MOST of the direction given. ???
    • By TravisM
      2001 bayou 220 KLF220A
      Need some help putting a new ignition switch on this thing. I'm not finding homes for all the wires. I can hook up the white wire and brown wire, But the switch has a B/W and Solid Yellow wire i can't find a home for, and there aren't any more wires in the vicinity from the harness that match this, except one red wire with a double female end crimped on, and a few B/Y grounds. None of the wiring diagrams i've founder or have been given match.
      I'm also wondering if i have the wrong switch? some switches appear to have 4 wires and other just 2, the Brown wire and a White wire.
      I'm at a loss here. Thanks.
       
    • By Gwbarm
      Im finishing up on the Big Bear, just tying up some loose ends and its done.
      My next project I actually bought first, but the Big Bear seemed like it was more challenging so tackled it first. Now looking the Eiger over im not so Sure.
      I bought this Suzuki Eiger, almost a year ago, rear wheels locked up, but it ran fairly well. It was so bad that it took 3 Big Guys to get it on my trailer. All the parts were there it ran. He wanted 600.00 and I offered him 400.00. a plus it had the original Kei Hin carb on it.
       
       

       

      You might ask, why would you want something so ugly, it is often referred to as the ugly sister to the King Quad. I actually like the Eiger I have this one and also a 2007. I have riden them before, they are strong a true beast, I am a fairly Big Guy 6' 3" 195 pds, and it fits me good, but what I really like is the wide foot print and low center of gravity , not so easy to turn over.
      So I get it home and I don't have 3 big guys to help me get it off my trailer, but I do have a John Deere, hooked it up and drug it off the trailer,an afterthought I should have used a couple of furniture moving dolly's under the rear wheels, oh well. Maybe I didn't ruin the already stuck rear end or transmission I was sure which, I was fairly sure it wasn't locked brake drums, after all that they should have popped free.
       This is what I have done so far. It's off the trailer I took the drive shaft bolts loose, they were tight, had to get a 3 foot cheater, I thought they were going to break. Got them out and now I can roll it around. I checked the shifter, this is a manual shift Eiger LTF400F. Foot shifter moved didn't seem to be going to any gear, but it was hard to tell, the shifter on the tank which has Low, High, and Reverse did not move. I took it apart and oiled it up good still wouldn't move. Thought the cable was stuck so I unhooked it from the linkage and cable moved freely. Looked at the linkage closely and it was stuck. I tapped it lightly, very lightly , with small hammer and it freed up kind of, but still stiff. I could tell this side cover had been off before and put back very sloppily. This is kind of where i left off except the plastics are all off, you might have seen me working on them in another post. Nothing I have done so far has helped, my next step was to take the side cover off the engine to see what's going on in there, but installing my Granite counter top, numerous honeydews, and the big bear kind of slowed down my progress. I did determine that it wasn't the rear end, that's actually what I thought it was going to be. If anyone has any ideas, they would be appreciated.  
       
    • By gohndd
      Hey guys, I have a 1999 king quad. The right front brake locks up when I squeeze the lever. I can loosen bleed screw, fluid will come out and it unlocks. I'm thinking maybe wheel cylinder. Any suggestions?
    • apply the code "AFF16" to get 16%OFF sitewide
    • By ggreen
      Sorry if this is in the wrong section,I didn't really consider it technical or needing advice. 2006,Linhai 300cc.What I was hoping was to find someone with the starter idler gear pin length and diameter. I've had the cover off alot of times and never realised there should be a pin from the case that meets the cover holding the starter gear in place. Now,a deepwell 1/4 in drive,5/16 deep well sits in the pin holes perfectly. Should I cut a lock ring groove in the end of it like a factory pin? I was thinking of just tack welding a washer to the end? 

  • Similar Tagged Content

  • Gallery Images

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...