Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok. Two thou isn't much wear so a new set of rings, valve grind and seals, and gaskets.. Timing chain maybe ?

You do need to take that lip off though. The new rings will have nice square top edges that will hit that lip and get damaged or will damage the piston. A scraper, sharp scraper, will take the lip off real easy.. It's nice workable metal. Do you have a three sided scraper ?

Posted

Mech, the rings are somewhat springy. I agree that there worn out. 

 

No I do not have a 3 sided scraper. 

But I can get one.

Posted

Oh no those measurments are not necessary i just do them out of curiosity. The standard new piston to cylinder cleaarance is around.002 so not far off, not sure of the service limit on your machine. I did notice there are quite a few scratches on the piston on photo #3 they look fairly prominant but it may be the lighting hard to judge. Looking at the last photo the larger valve seems to be riding low in the seat which tells me the sealing surface may be quite worn, it does appear to be sealing good all the way around so maybe not a problem and it may be just Kawaski valve, but the smaller valve looks normal just carboned up. dont see too many of those Bayous, they are good machines, definately worth getting going. I would consider replacing the piston also you usually get a better deal on getting a matching piston and ring set anyway, just part of my OCD i feel like i get a better fit if piston and rings come from the same manufacturer, probaby not. 

Posted

The measured clearance sounds like it's too much, but I'm thinking it will because the measurement was taken on the side of the piston rather than front. The pistons are oval and tapered. I think if it really had that much clearance it would have made horrible noises at start up and/or have busted the skirt off by now.

I'm in NZ and parts are dear here, so I generally just replace things if they need replacing, but the economics are different over there and it might well be a better option to buy after market kit with barrel, piston, dudgeon pin, rings, perhaps gaskets. I'd always buy genuine rings if I was doing it.

Posted

Yeah I'm leaning towards getting new piston, rings, valves and new gaskets. But I'm guessing I still need to remove the lip from the cylinder wall? 

Posted

And yes Gwbarm, I do want to get this going because I have another bayou 220 that runs great. And that way when I'm riding and have the wife sitting behind me telling me to slow down, if I get this running, then I can just say I didn't hear her and leave her in the dust 🤣

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Update, so I replaced parts mentioned above and she runs! She just won't idle so I have to mess with carb. It's a new amazon carb that I've used in past and never had issues. I do have an original mikuni carb that I can clean and try. 

Posted

Second update,  I cleaned the mikuni carb, put it on and she runs and idles nice and steady! I rode it nice and slow around my property just to make sure she would actually move and shift properly. Goes into all gears as it should and reverse. But I believe I have to adjust clutch cause she won't actually start moving until I give it more gas than normally. 

 

Will be looking at manual on how to do that next. 

 

Will update as I go. 

 

I want to thank @Mech and @Gwbarm, for all there time and suggestions to help me get this running. 

Posted

You can test the clutches to a degree.. You need to have the shift/plate clutch adjusted first. If adjusting it doesn't cure the slow take off problem, put the bike into first gear, and try pushing it forwards..If it feels like the clutch is slipping doing that then it will be the shift/plate clutch slipping. If it tries to turn the engine and doesn't feel like the clutch slips, then the slow take off is probably the centrifugal clutch worn out.

Posted

Mech, i did whar you suggested and it felt like motor wanted to turn over. So I took it apart and centrifugal clutch has barely any padding material left. And the drum is deeply grooved. I ordered those new parts as well as the clutch disc's. Might as well change those as well since I'm already in there. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Update, I have installed new clutch disc's and centrifigul clutch and drum. I haven't tried riding it yet. Question is do I need to adjust the clutch before I ride for first time?

 

Thanks in advance. 

Posted (edited)

Yes. After fitting it needs adjusting, and then checking a couple of times in the first few hours riding, but I'd make the first recheck after only about five or ten minutes.

I hope you soaked the shoes and plates in oil before installing them ?

Edited by Mech
Posted

Hey Mech, thanks for response. I did soak the disc plates and centrifugal clutch, before installing those parts. Ok I'll adjust clutch as you state. 

 

Thanks again!

  • Like 1
Posted

i may have overstated the ten minute recheck..  I'd use the plate clutch a bit, using my toe on the shift lever to slip it a bit. I'd do that on a ten minute run so I could readjust it before returning it to a customer.. You can probably drive it for an hour or two of regular driving before the plates will have settled in and need readjusting..

Posted

Hey Mech, so I did adjust clutch before first ride, ride it for like 10 mins and re adjusted clutch. Did this before reading your latest response. My question now is should I ride it for an hour or 2 before adjusting again? I ask because it shifts a little harder than normal. Both when up shifting and if I get to 5th gear and come to a stop and down shift to get to neautral, it will shift a little hard. 

Posted

The clutch plates settle into place(in the basket grooves) and wear a little of the fluff off, and need adjusting a few times, then they stay in adjustment for so many hours that it can amount to years in some bikes.. 

You can sort of check it by using your toe under or on the shift lever, and seeing where it starts to let the clutch grip, and where it locks up, then checking/comparing that occasionally.

The adjustment.. The book says to turn the adjustment screw clockwise until it becomes hard to turn, then turn it counterclockwise until it becomes hard to turn, then lock the nut there.. But they don't really mean turn it till you can't turn it any more..  haha..  Try it lightly, and then firmly wound counterclockwise, and see if you can feel the action difference using your toe on the shift lever.

 

Posted

I see. Well I can tell you that is exactly what I did. Turn until you can't turn any more. I will try your method and report back. 

 

Thank you. 

Posted

It was the "shift a little hard" comment that had me worried.

When you use the shift lever it operates the plate clutch, and I thought you may have adjusted it so that it was trying to push the clutch release bearing too far.. which would make the shift lever not want to move through it's full travel.. 

All good though. It sounds like you've got it sussed.

Posted

Update. So I tried your method and it seems to shift a little smoother. I'm guessing I still have to ride it some more so it can settle in as you stated. I don't even have 20 mins of ride time since repairs. So I will ride it for some time over the weekend and the coming days and see where that leads. 

 

Thanks again for everyone's help. I appreciate it!

Posted (edited)

You can test the clutch operation.. to make sure it's fully disengaging, and grabbing hard again when you let it out..

If you put it into two wheel drive and heap up a slope in first or second, then while the throttle's still open you push or lift the lever very slightly. It should make the clutch start to slip, and if you let the revs build for a half second or less then let the lever off again, it should be able to spin the wheels.. Doing that tests the clutch and it's what I'd do repeatedly to quickly settle/wear the clutch in.. It's how I check for slipping clutches.. in bikes, quads, trucks and cars..  If the clutch isn't good it'll start to slip momentarily when you dump the clutch. A good clutch will grab fast and sharply.

Edited by Mech

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Dsluder
      I am having an issue with a hs500. I bought it broken and have been trying to get it running. It seems to be starving for fuel. If I put my hand over the intake it will crank but will not run for very long because I'm not able to get the correct airflow with my hand. The things I have done so far are. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, mass airflow sensor, idle air adjuster, fuel injector, cleaned the throttle body, replaced the ecu, and still the same issue. I notice the injector does not spray when removed from the head. I dont know if that is common. 
       
      I am out of ideas on what to do next. I have removed the fuel line from the injector and it is getting plenty of fuel. If anyone has an idea on what could possibly be the issue I would be happy to try anything at this point.
    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By pastorjeep
      Need some feedback here. I picked this machine up with PO saying no spark. I have tried new stator, CDI, and coil. The stator ohms 231 w/r to w/g and .1 red to blue. The coil is .8 primary and 2.53 secondary. I have 12 to the CDI with ign on and the wires from stator to CDI have good continuity. This model only has 12v on or off for ign/kill source. Still no spark? 
    • By AnthonyT
      Does anyone have a digital copy of the service manual they are willing to share I’ve looked all over the place and I can find a free copy. Thanks!!!
    • By mga
      on my left brake handle (for the rear brakes) there's two wires attached to it. What are these wires for? They can't be for the tail light, since it only has on filament  I tried to trace them, but i got lost in the harness. I checked wiring schematics, but didn't see anything like that.
      I'll post a pic later.
×
×
  • Create New...