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By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
Hi guys I have a 2003 Arctic 250 4X4 it starts idles and runs great for about 10 min. then it spits and sputters and dies but it starts right up like nothing happened idles good till you give gas and it does it again let off the gas and it's idling great again this goes on for about 15 to 20 min. and then it takes off runs good all day like nothing was wrong.
I cleaned the carburetor it looked like a new one inside found a little gunk in one orifice, new air filter no crimped lines air line to tank good I did put a meter on the battery idling it said 16.5 V that's high I think would a voltage regulator cause this?
Suzuki shop wanted to sale me a stator for $556.00 but said it could be something else also thought I'd see what you guys say about it
So this 98 Big Bear is my new project. While I'm waiting on a few parts to show up, I'm working on a few small things. I can shift 1-5 just fine, no problem at all (keep in mind, this is not running yet so just manual shifting sitting still). However, I can't shift from 1-neutral. I can hold down on the foot shifter, rock it a bit, and it will disengage the clutch so i can push it around in neutral as long as I keep pushing down on the shifter. However, it will not downshift to neutral and stay there. I know BB's have had some shifting difficulties in the past, but before I dive into this, have any of you fine folks encountered the same issue? I'm tempted to just adjust the linkage a bit since these have an external linkage, but thought I'd toss the question to the group and see if there are any common issues to look for.
By Wolf Studios
Hi guys so I'm looking for any help or advice with a yamaha big bear 350 1997 (i think) it's fairly dirty and just been say for many years, boss says it's a non runner and I've tried and it will not start, ideally would love to do it up and get it running but have been told the engine has gone, cannot find a new engine anywhere. Anything I should check first before just taking the entire thing apart?
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By Ashton Crawford
Hello everyone, i have 2000 Polaris Trail Blazer 300 I’ve been stumped on for weeks. I’m having a lot of issues starting the quad. I cleaned the carb spotless because I thought it was a carb issue and bought a new fuel line because it wasn’t getting fuel. The carb gets fuel perfectly fine now but it won’t start. The spark plug I a little worn out but it’s good enough for just one start. The only time it does “start” is when I spray starter fluid into the carb. But it never stays on. It’ll start for a bout a second then just die out immediately even if you’re giving it some throttle and the choke is on. I have no clue what I should do. If you need more information, have questions, or have any slight idea what the issue would be and how I could resolve it. Please reply ASAP. Thank you.
Ok...I'm gettin' me juevos ready to do an oir filter clean....
Went to my local harley/quad dealer and he had me purchase the No-Toil kit (Cleaner, Air Filter Oil, Rim Grease)
What I've read is that the No-Toil cleaner will NOT clean
other oils off air filters....just the No-Toil oil....
So, I've also read that others have cleaned their air filters
in the kitchen sink, used gasoline, or used flash solvent....
Looking for advice as I've mentioned I'm very mechanically
I'm going to wash the air box seal in the sink and give it a good dry....
One more thing......No-Toil or Bel-Ray for filter oil?
By Jeff Wharton
I have a 2000 Arctic Cat 300 4 wheeler. I have been having some carburetor issues. So i bought a new carb. Now I'm having these issues. The unit will start and idle fine, when i go to accelerate it wants to cut off. So i checked to make sure it was getting gas and the fuel filter will be full of gas and then once the carb opens the filter drains down and will not refill quick enough to run. So i checked to make sure gas was flowing to the filter and it is flowing fine through the line. I remove the filter and run the gas line directly to the carb and the engine idle fine and then it will run good as i ride it for about 10 minutes then it will start with the same issues again i cannot accelerate enough to move the 4 wheeler. Every time i accelerate the unit will cut off. What is wrong with this thing. My 400 Arctic Cat is doing the same thing except it will backfire, I'm lost i have tried everything i know to do, what am i missing here. Thanks for your help
I’m looking for new replacement shocks (front & rear.) on my 1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4. New OEM shocks are upwards of $400. I haven’t pulled the rims off to check the eyelet to eyelet length but I’m hoping an expert on this site does know( I called Kawasaki direct yesterday and they were of know help.) Any technical help would be appreciated. TY fellow members. Vic
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