Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok here goes....

I was riding and stalled out and my raptor wouldn't start up. I found the battery cable had broken off the terminal. I held it on to start it and get it back to the house. I put the battery cable back together and it wouldnt start. I did some troubleshooting and the battery is good, I can force the starter to turn over but it wont start because of the electic circuit not being right. I can not even get the neutral light when it is in neutral. I checked the 2 fuses on the starter block.

Any suggestions?

Posted

That sounds like your starter is going out. It turns for a sec then just clicks? Either the starter is going bad, battery is low on juice, or you got some loose wires that when it turns it wiggles the wires enough to lose ample juice. Try hooking your battery to a booster and try it.

Posted

hey, i just fixed that issue on my 450, it would do nothing but turn for a second and start clicking even hooked to the charger.. that really baffled me, i even got a new solenoid with no luck, but if i bypassed it with a wrench it would fire right up, there is a starter relay tho!! mine was burnt up and causing the low voltage on the trip wire to solenoid!!:confused: that sounds like your prob too. I found one off a warrior that fixed mine!! but from yamaha their only $16 new! i would definately try that first! :wink:

Posted

Solenoid is likely, could also be that your repair to the cable does not allow for sufficient current flow. Or maybe the cables are just fried, bad cables will actually act like a resistor. Google voltage drop test, there are alot of simple tests that can be done with a volt meter to diagnose your problem.

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By realpilot
      I am unable to find a wiring diagram for this UTV.  When I turn the switch to on, the contractor does not engage.  The Brake pressure switch and the parking brake switches work correctly. What else should I be looking for?  All of the diagrams I have found are for newer models and the wire color coding is different.
       
      Thanks
    • By OldATVowner
      Just getting into this issue really. Been replacing solenoids but now I'd like to track down the problem. This time I'm not getting neutral/reverse lights or start button. Was on a creek ride when it started doing this recently. It cranks by arcing the solenoid and gives me no light or start button but if I crank with the pull cord....the neutral light and the button work. Turn it off and try to crank with the key and nothing. I'm looking into the safety switch issue tomorrow and re charging the battery. Just figured this was odd enough of a problem that you guys might be familiar. Thanks
    • By Mikey509
      Hey guys, so I've been messing with my quad, and between all the starts, the battery is dead. Is there a certain way to charge these? Can I just throw a trickle charger on it and call it a day? can i also jump it like a normal car with a battery pack or is that to much voltage 
    • By quadnut20
      23 friends 5 days great weather in Wyoming riding Sand Dunes & trails !!











    • By LMI
      Hi all.  New to the forum & quads.  Seems like a great place full of info.
      I just recently picked up a 2005 Suzuki KingQuad LTA700.  I need a battery.  I've been reading up on conventional vs AGM types.  I have a Royal Distributing and Canadian Tire.  RD has 2 types avail for my year/Model a battery YTX16-BS CRANK $75, and BATTERY YTX20CH-BS YUASA $140.  Neither of these is the type from the manual FTZ16-BS.
      from what I can tell... I think the only difference is the capacity with the $75 unit rated at 14 AH/10HR and the $140 unit rated at 18 AH/10HR ... which is the rating in the manual for the FTZ16-BS.  How much does this make a difference for nearly x2 the cost?
      And about the models/type numbers.... what is important to know ... they all end in "-BS" but are the other details relevant or just manufacturer naming?
×
×
  • Create New...