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in this thread, I want to discuss how 4-cycle atv engines work- what the different types are... how they are set up and which you prefer. To start off, are the cams on ALL atv 4-strokes powered by a cam chain? I know that on say a lawn mower or logsplitter engine, the cam is turned by the tappet, pushrods, and valve rockers. Which is better and why? Chain-driven cams or pushrod-driven cams? Are the pushrods just an old version and everything is transforming to chains or the other way around...or not at all? Just looking for some explanation, history, and downsides/upsides...
Sorry for my English, I live in Ukrane, Kharkiv.
I have Can Am Renegede 800, 2007, g1, mileage is 430 hours. Happened issue with chain in first cylinder. Mechanic opened engine and found problems with piston, rings, cylinder, etc. So engine need full rebuild.
I found rebuild kit on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/06-10-Can-Am-Outlander-800-800R-Stock-Cylinder-Crank-Complete-Engine-Rebuild-Kit/253868930525?fits=Make%3ACan-Am&hash=item3b1bc475dd:g:NdMAAOSwew5a-bY9
Price is really good. For example original crankshaft costs $929.99. Here full kit costs $999. This kit made by BP Racing ATV Company. Here is their website https://bpracingatv.com/
But I can’t find reviews to their products. My mechanics didn’t used parts from BP Racing ATV before. And their parts not very popular in Ukraine. I’m afraid that I will spent money for this kit + delivery + pay to mechanic for a work and will need new engine rebuild after 100 hours.
What is the quality of parts from BP Racing ATV?
Is it have sence to buy this kit, or pay more and buy original parts?
Maybe someone used this kits for rebuild engine. And have expirence of using this parts. What will your mind about quality of parts from BP Racing?
Thanks for your answers.
By Ahren Longo
Well I finally had to take the rear end apart on my 07 Rancher 420. Man it was nasty on the inside!!! I didn't take any pictures, too concentrated on the task I guess. The tools are retarded expensive, after I spent $280 to get the socket and puller for the pinion, because no-one makes them other than Honda. I figured out the pinion was shot due to the needle bearing being completely destroyed, it ground it down pretty bad. The bearing and seal set was cheap enough , $70 on ebay. I got the pinion on ebay too for $95, I took the nasty looking ring gear and sand blasted it, although a little pitted, still perfectly usable. I had to turn the sealing surfaces down about .015" to get them smooth enough to seal. Then for the icing on the cake. I found a brand new rear diff. assembly for $400 on ebay. Dang it!! Coulda just popped and swapped and saved $50. Oh well I have the tools to do honda rear ends now maybe I'll get my buddy who own's a CNC machine to copy them for me and I'll sell the other ones to get my money back.
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AL righty I did some trading around this weekend and ended up picking up a few 4 wheelers for cheap. I ended up with this one for $500 in it total and well the guy told me it dropped a valve. I haven't really messed with it at all. But this weekend I am going to try and start working on it some to get it running before winter time frame. So what I am asking is a couple of questions.
1. First off where do I start I tried pulling the pull cord and could not get it to move at all.
2. I need to get a service manual for this 4 wheeler where can I get it downloaded for free?
3. what do I need to look for and how do I go about this really. I do have experience with 4 wheelers but this one is a little different to me than others because its a V2 and I have no clue where to start internal on the engines. Most of my experience is on the outside portion of troubleshooting on theses wheelers.
Please no smart butt answers as i am new to here but just wanted opinions on where to start. Please and thanks wink:
'11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease...
First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think?
Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section...
So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part...
Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too?
So now on to these clamps that came in the kit...
I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow?
And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears?
Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing...
1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle
retaining clip part # 26?
2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got
3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off.
Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that
I may be faced with buying a new ignitor for my '04 Prairie 700. I'm considering going the aftermarket route since they offer performance enhancements along with being a fraction in cost compared to a factory replacement.
Guess that leads to my question, which manufacturers produce the best part? I see glowing reviews for Dynatek but there are also a few complaints about issues out of the box. A good thing, it seems Dynatek is willing to work with the customers on resolving problems.
If anyone here has experience with them or others, good or bad I'd like to hear it.
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