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I know the tires are for a 9" rim and they are mounted on banshee rims. They have 1 ride on them. They are itp rims and tires. Text (845)275-2566. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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My 07 Rancher rear end started roaring on me the other day. I took the inspection plug out this afternoon and to my dismay it was dry full of rusty nasty crap. The pinion was loose and the axle seal was pissing out oil when I tried to top it up. I bought it used and usually check stuff over better but I missed that. Muuuhhh Now I gotta take it apart and fix it. Not gonna be expensive, just time consuming. Hopefully the gears aren't too torn up. I cleaned out the nasty crap with some brake-clean and put in some fresh gear oil. Much quieter now just leaks out all the gear oil cause the seals are shot. I'll fill it up with some lucas and limp it along till I feel like fixing it.
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I was given a 93 bayou 400 that has been sitting in a barn since some time in 94, hardly any use. The story behind it is the owner poured some gas out of a can full of trash and stopped the carb up. His meth head son took the carb off to rebuild it and got locked up, carb lost in the wind. The bike has been sitting covered ever since. The front rack and bumper has been misplaced but the rest of the bike is there and after washing off some dust it looks like a brand new bike. Still has the little tits on factory dry rotted tires. The old man is supposed to look for the missing parts but I don't have high hopes of them turning up. Just ordered a carb for it and now looking for missing front pieces. My main question is how much in common does the 400 share with the 300? Seems locally the 400 bayous are as rare as unicorn tears but I find 300 parts bikes all over for next to nothing. I looked on fleabay and seems most of the racks and bumpers on there look like they have been in a demo derby and cost way more than I'm willing to spend for something all beat to crap. If I knew the 300 stuff would indeed work I can pick up a whole bike minus the engine locally for $50. Not tying to do a pebbles beach restro but just a nice atv we can work around the farm on while spending as little as possible. Most likely throw some 26's under it and also let dad deer hunt off it.
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Anybody that can give me advance on rebuilding my 1984 honda trx 200 fourtrax ive put it back together a couple time i had it running perfect once but forgot a clip so torn it down i put it all back together but doesnt seem to wanna run right idk if im doing something wroung or what
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Hey guys, about to start working on my step father's 2001 Honda TRX250EX Sportrax, I need help with the rear end. The quad runs and rides, but the tires wobble like crazy and I'm pretty sure it's the bearings, trying to get a manual
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AL righty I did some trading around this weekend and ended up picking up a few 4 wheelers for cheap. I ended up with this one for $500 in it total and well the guy told me it dropped a valve. I haven't really messed with it at all. But this weekend I am going to try and start working on it some to get it running before winter time frame. So what I am asking is a couple of questions.
1. First off where do I start I tried pulling the pull cord and could not get it to move at all.
2. I need to get a service manual for this 4 wheeler where can I get it downloaded for free?
3. what do I need to look for and how do I go about this really. I do have experience with 4 wheelers but this one is a little different to me than others because its a V2 and I have no clue where to start internal on the engines. Most of my experience is on the outside portion of troubleshooting on theses wheelers.
Please no smart butt answers as i am new to here but just wanted opinions on where to start. Please and thanks wink:
'11 Grizz 700 here and I ordered Yamaha front lower boot replacement kit 28P-2510G-00 which consisted of 5 parts. The 4 parts pictured plus a plastic bottle of grease...
First time doing this and the videos I've seen entail removing the entire axle then removing the top boot to get at the lower boot. Now when putting back together the top boot area (even though the boot isn't being replaced) it's suggested not to reuse the old axle retaining ring but to only use a new ring. So, seeing as how the kit I ordered did not come with the 2 (I believe) retaining rings for the top part of the axle or a second bottle of grease for the top boot it looks like I'll need to order some more parts before I can start on this one. Whadda y'all think?
Looks like I have all the parts (B, C, D, E) I'll need for the lower section...
So now I need to get the parts (G, H, I, J, K) for doing the top part...
Also, from what I've seen I think I'll be needing part 26 as well, which I think is an axle retaining clip. So, should I get this part too?
So now on to these clamps that came in the kit...
I've seen how other clamps work but not entirely sure about this one. The only retaining barb I can tell that's on this clamp is the little one in the yellow circle. Other clamps I've seen have much larger retaining nubs about the size of the ones with the blue arrows. So I'm guessing for this clip you use pliers to squeeze the blue arrow nubs together then hook using the small nub in yellow?
And lastly some questions on getting the 27mm axle nut off. I've seen this done with a pneumatic impact gun on a video but I don't like using those things. One way I've seen it described is to jack up and take the wheel off, remove the center plastic cap, replace the wheel and lower to the ground for some traction. Put the machine in park and chock the wheels, then put your wrench on the nut with possibly a breaker 'cheater' bar and crank. Same procedure for putting it on except you would prob use a torque wrench. Does this wound like the best way to get this 27mm axle nut off without using an impact gun? Even though the wheels would be chocked I imagine the gears (in park) would take the brunt of resisting the torque on the nut when it's being forced off. Would this be too much force on the gears?
Crap I know this is a long post already so sorry bout that. I'll just finish with summarizing my questions which have prob gotten lost in all that writing...
1) Should I order the full second upper boot kit plus the axle
retaining clip part # 26?
2) How to use the retaining clips in the kit I got
3) Best way to get the 27mm axle nut off.
Thanks for hanging in there with me through all that
I may be faced with buying a new ignitor for my '04 Prairie 700. I'm considering going the aftermarket route since they offer performance enhancements along with being a fraction in cost compared to a factory replacement.
Guess that leads to my question, which manufacturers produce the best part? I see glowing reviews for Dynatek but there are also a few complaints about issues out of the box. A good thing, it seems Dynatek is willing to work with the customers on resolving problems.
If anyone here has experience with them or others, good or bad I'd like to hear it.
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