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Posted

I just got a 98 Arctic Cat 400 4x4. The guy i got it from told me it needed a new carbourator. I just got a used one off of an 04, the Arctic Cat dealer in Selma, AL said it would work just fine. The only difference, as far as we could tell was that the throttle was on the opposite side (right side) than the 98 carb (left side). We put it on, but are having a little trouble. We hooked the fuel line to the plastic nipple right behind the throttle plate. Still didnt start, so we then wet a towel with gasoline (very stupid i know...not my idea, we didnt have Ether) and stuck it where the air filter enters the carb, while doin this, it almost started. So, i guess the carb is not getting fuel. I then called the mechanic who sent me the carb, he told me we had the fuel line in the wrong spot, he said it should go in the metal one on the right side. The plastic nipple which broke off while we were messing with it appartently is just for air to get in. Does anyone know if this is true because it still wont start. After i hooked it to the right side, it has a steady gas leak from carb. Also, does anyone know where i could get a replacement for the plastic nipple that broke off (apparently the one for air)? It is a very tight squeeze, and apparently it fits over a little brass swivel. Needless to say i have no idea about ATV engines, and need some adive. Lastly, does anyone know where i can get a manual or a diagram of the engine. Thanks!

Posted

The fuel line should connect to a fitting that comes out of the side of the carb just above the float bowl, probably toward the rear of carb. If you have it hooked up correctly, and it still isn't getting fuel, try tapping on the side of the float bowl with a screwdriver handle, as the floats could be stuck. If it still doesn't work, you may need to disassemble the carb and clean it. If there was any fuel residue left in the carb, it may have gummed up the carb. There is also the possibility that the carb was never the issue. Do a compression test, just to see what it reads.

Posted
A stuck float could also explain the steady flow of gas out of the carb.

I missed the part about fuel flowing out. Guess I should go to bed now. Most likely a stuck float causing that, get your screwdriver.

Posted

Thanks for responding, the guy i bought it from said that the float valve on the carb could be bad, but would be cheap to replace. Is this what you are talking about? Also, if i have to replace the valve, will i have to take off the entire carb?

Posted

Your best bet is going to take the carb completely off and either A. buy a rebuild kit or B. clean the living snot out of it. Sounds like the carb could be pretty gummed up too. That is what usually causes the float to get stuck. The bowl on the bottom of the carb has the float in it. When it fills up with gas the float goes up and closes the valve to keep only a certain amount of fuel in there. If it is stuck, nothing to stop the flow of gas.

Does that make sense?

Posted

yeah, but the carb is extremely clean, so i really think the float valve just needs to be replaced, but im not sure. Im goin to look at it when i get home, i was hoping to be able to replace that valve without taking the entire carb off.

Posted
Thanks for responding, the guy i bought it from said that the float valve on the carb could be bad, but would be cheap to replace. Is this what you are talking about? Also, if i have to replace the valve, will i have to take off the entire carb?

You may be able to loosen the clamps on either side of the carb and twist it in place to remove the float bowl. If you can get the float bowl off without removing the carb, then you can get to the float valve. It is a tiny cylindrical object with a pointed rubber tip attatched to the floats near the pivot pin. Look at the diagram that atv mechanic posted for you it should help you identify the parts you are looking for. Have you tried tapping the side of the float bowl, the floats could just be stuck. If you do have to remove the bowl, look around in side a bit an make sure every thing looks clean and in good order.

Posted
You may be able to loosen the clamps on either side of the carb and twist it in place to remove the float bowl. If you can get the float bowl off without removing the carb, then you can get to the float valve. It is a tiny cylindrical object with a pointed rubber tip attatched to the floats near the pivot pin. Look at the diagram that atv mechanic posted for you it should help you identify the parts you are looking for. Have you tried tapping the side of the float bowl, the floats could just be stuck. If you do have to remove the bowl, look around in side a bit an make sure every thing looks clean and in good order.

You know, I had a Kawasaki Kodiak 450 with the same carb ...I believe. I had float problems, where it was gettng stuck and starving out. Like DirtDemon said, I was able to loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist it to where the float boal was facing me, and take off the cover plate to expose the float. The pivot pin was corroded. I did fix my problem without complete removal.

Posted

Thanks so much this was a big help, the only thing is that i wish the diagram and pictures would have been labeled. I guess that is asking a lot! Thanks for your help.

Posted

How many quarts of oil should a 98 Arctic Cat 400 hold. I was told that the oil also served as the differential fluid, so it held 5. Is that too much?

Posted
I was told my arctic cat 300 4x4 holds 4 quarts for motor and dif. Don't know for fact, just bought it yesterday.

Welcome fireman! I believe there is a site glass on that atv to check oil level just like on the Suzukis. I believe it should hold about three and half quarts. When you change the oil, start with 3 quarts then fill the 1/2 until you are at the level you need to be.

Posted

welcome fireman.. and KevinG i see from ur avatar u water ride a lot and ur saying ur belt is slipping u should snorkel the belt drive intake and exhaust on the belt housing, that should take care of ur problem.. also a clutch kit helps

Posted
welcome fireman.. and KevinG i see from ur avatar u water ride a lot and ur saying ur belt is slipping u should snorkel the belt drive intake and exhaust on the belt housing, that should take care of ur problem.. also a clutch kit helps

AH, young one. Your knowledge surpasses your age.

Great advise.:yes:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
I just got a 98 Arctic Cat 400 4x4. The guy i got it from told me it needed a new carbourator. I just got a used one off of an 04, the Arctic Cat dealer in Selma, AL said it would work just fine. The only difference, as far as we could tell was that the throttle was on the opposite side (right side) than the 98 carb (left side). We put it on, but are having a little trouble. We hooked the fuel line to the plastic nipple right behind the throttle plate. Still didnt start, so we then wet a towel with gasoline (very stupid i know...not my idea, we didnt have Ether) and stuck it where the air filter enters the carb, while doin this, it almost started. So, i guess the carb is not getting fuel. I then called the mechanic who sent me the carb, he told me we had the fuel line in the wrong spot, he said it should go in the metal one on the right side. The plastic nipple which broke off while we were messing with it appartently is just for air to get in. Does anyone know if this is true because it still wont start. After i hooked it to the right side, it has a steady gas leak from carb. Also, does anyone know where i could get a replacement for the plastic nipple that broke off (apparently the one for air)? It is a very tight squeeze, and apparently it fits over a little brass swivel. Needless to say i have no idea about ATV engines, and need some adive. Lastly, does anyone know where i can get a manual or a diagram of the engine. Thanks!

Hey Matt, any update? How did you make out?

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