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By Sha35297
I have this bike in my shop for a customer. It was sunk completely under water and left running until it killed. I did a complete engine rebuild. Replaced all bearings, crank, oil pump, and various other components. Engine starts and runs great. It will shift up through all gears perfectly in automatic and in ESP, but when slowing down it gets to 3rd gear and the MIL "-" light comes on and stays on. No flashes or anything and it will not shift gears. Kill the engine and restart in ESP mode and it is able to shift to neutral and start over. Does the same thing while down shifting in ESP mode. I replaced shift angle sensor with no improvement. Checked oil pressures as per repair manual "74psi" and higher with higher RPM's. With no MIL codes to point at an issue. I am at a loss as to what else to check or replace. Has anyone else ran across this issue?
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By fishhouse3
FOR SALE: 2021 CFMOTO ZForce 800 Trail with many extras and full warranty until 2027. Only 625 miles and 50 hours of use.
In great condition, has a clean title and one adult owner. Has had all scheduled regular maintenance and has not been abused. Only used about six times on weekend trips to Hatfield-McCoy trails in WV.
Under full CFMOTO Care bumper-to-bumper extended warranty until 8/2027 (paid $1,600). Full service and tune up just completed with new clutch, drive shaft, belt, rollers, etc (paid $1500). Plus it comes with over $3,500 in upgrades and accessories! Way too many included items to list here (see last pics for full details).
This machine is ready to go and needs nothing - just hop in and hit the trails! I have over $20k invested in this machine. Priced VERY fair to sell quick at less than half that!!!
$9,999 WITHOUT warranty -OR- $10,999 WITH full extended warranty until 8/2027.
Located in Chesterfield, VA 23832. Message me for more pics and info!
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By Mech
This covers most cases of backfiring, and by that I mean loud pops or bangs, not the un-burnt fuel spitting out the back of the carb that's sometimes observed.
Ok, so there are two types of what people describe as backfiring, one sort is when it backfires out the exhaust, and the other is when it backfires into the carb and airbox.
So, backfires out the exhaust happen under two different circumstances.
First is as you are riding along, the bikes going fine, but when you are going at a steady speed or throttling off it makes a loud boom out the exhaust... and that sort is caused mainly by an exhaust leak up near the head or front pipe. It can also be caused by a lean mixture, or a rich mixture, but either way, the bike is generally going fairly well.
The other circumstance is the bike is not going fine, it's missing, and then there is a loud boom out the exhaust... that is nearly always caused by an electrical miss... bad plug or coil something like that.
Then there is the backfire into the carb. This generally happens when the bikes being ridden and the throttle is open. It's not the fairly common, occasional pop as the bike is being started or turned off.
This backfiring is because the incoming mixture is getting ignited. There are a few possible reasons for that.
It can ignite because the valve timing is out, and then they don't idle so good, and they are down or torque when you drive them.
Or, the incoming mixture is ignited by carbon build up, or a real hot spark-plug tip, both of which needs the engine to run for a while till it's good and hot.
Or, the incoming fuel gets ignited by un-burnt gases caused by real late ignition timing, which is super rare these days. That also makes them gutless.
Or because the mixture is still in there burning because it was so lean on the last firing. That is the most common cause by far.
There is another cause of burning still going on in there when the new charge arrives and that's raw fuel deposited on the cool head surface and smoldering away, but that doesn't get caused by a rich mixture alone. Iif the properly atomised fuel mixture was that rich it would be spewing black smoke, but it can be caused by badly atomised fuel getting in there in big globs. That can be because the slide needle is loose and jumping up and down, a vacuum hose to an auto-fueltap or a vacuum fuel pump is sucking in fuel, something like that.
Hope that points you in the right direction when you are trying to figure a problem, or describing a symptom in here. Remember, there are symptoms, and there are circumstances relating to the symptom.. Take note of both and it helps mightily when you are seeking help or diagnosing the problem, and that applies to all problems, not just backfires..
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By p5200
Anyone have any ideas how I could remove this drain plug from the front hub it's a little below the surface.
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By weekdaze
Anyone ever try this method for removing a tire from the rim? I tried the bottle jack method, but the jack kept slipping down the tire.
This option seems to focus the pressure right at the bead, but I'm wondering if there are other options that you've had success with.
(the source is here: https://boostatv.com/change-tire/ )
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