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recently picked up some project bikes off CL for cheap. got a honda fourtrax (the ancient 4x4 kind with the straight axle in the front as well as the rear and a back-up kick-start) plastics are crap, but my goal is to get running like a champ and patch the plastics up and sell to one of my many friends that want a reliable 4x4 for dirt cheap and doesnt care what it looks like.
so the former owner says it needs carb rebuilt, but its sat for 3+ years since so who knows. things I see: carb is missing (he gave me a box of parts along with the bike), engine turns over and feels good with kick-start, brakes need work, battery missing (That always puts me off, cause then I know most likely someone's been tampering with the electrical.
I picked up my first ever ATV on friday. It's an 89 Big Bear. It has some cosmetic issues, but seems pretty decent mechanically. I did have trouble getting the idle tuned to the book spec of 1,300 - 1,500 RPM. I took the carb apart and cleaned it out. Somebody must have lost the spring for the pilot screw, as it's no longer in the carb. Also, I have a dual cable carb, I noticed all the IPL's show the single cable carb, but I see others on youtube had dual cable carbs. When I would adjust my idle speed screw, nothing would happen. I bottomed it out and it didn't seem to make much if any difference. When i pulled the carb apart I saw the screw doesn't even touch the linkage, it's too short. Do the two different versions have different length carb screws? I'm wondering if somebody lost the ordinal, replaced it with the IPL number for a single cable carb which is shorter, and gave up on getting the ATV to idle. If you hold the throttle just a bit to get it to the RPM range listed above, it "idles" great. Any ideas? Or any links to the dual cable IPL?
Have you guys have good luck with the aftermarket intake boots? Or is this a buy once, cry once deal? I'm guessing the OEM units last longer, but there is a huge price difference. If you have had good luck with aftermarket, where did you get it? My current boot doesn't seem to have any air leaks, but it's encased in JB weld...
I'm getting a 9th digit check sum error on the ATV when I put the VIN in. Has anybody seen this before on a Yamaha? The VIN number looks original as well as the paint around it.
Had the problem earlier this month. Found the air intake filter (K&N) covered in mud and cleaned it. Took it out this weekend and it worked great until I went on a longer ride.
After it warms up, it bogs down at about 20mph. Engine sputters. No change at full throttle. It runs fine at lower RPM. Once it cools off, I can run it at higher speed for a few minutes then it bogs down. Seems like there is an electronic component that overheats. Check engine display comes on when it happens. Did manage to complete our 34 mile ride though.
Buddy suggested the throttle position sensor. Will dig into the manual later on.
A friend of mine has this Bayou 220 that started running bad and parked it a few years ago. I foolishly volunteered to take a look at it. I noticed right away the choke plunger on the carb was broken and probably the reason it was running bad but now the old gas was evaporated and like turpentine. Before i even tried to start it, i drained/ thoroughly washed the tank out, new fuel filter, new fuel lines. Blew air through the petcock etc. Changed the oil and filter and air filter and new choke plunger and cable. I disassembled the carb and rebuilt it with a kit. I cleaned the main jet with solvent and poked a wire through it to make sure it is clean.. the engine now fires right up with the choke on and dies when i take the choke off. I adjusted the air/fuel screw to about 1.5 turns out and the idle screw about 2.5 turns out. The rubber boot between the carb and head does not have any cracks in it so I don't think it is leaking air. I originally had the clip on the needle on the second from the top ring... when i moved it all the way to the bottom it starts, runs and idles really fast and will idle eeally high with the choke off but if i adjust the throttle cable and/or idle screw to a slower idle it will sometimes stall but the idle will go up and down every few seconds and when you give it gas there is a hesitation... i tried moving the clip down to rhe second from bottom and same problem... i replaced all the parts in the pic to the top right. However, there appears to be a small o ring, washer and spring left over from the kit... i did not see these get removed..... a) any idea if where these extra parts go and if i need them and b) any other ideas on why i cant get it to idle right or carb adjustment ideas?
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AL righty I did some trading around this weekend and ended up picking up a few 4 wheelers for cheap. I ended up with this one for $500 in it total and well the guy told me it dropped a valve. I haven't really messed with it at all. But this weekend I am going to try and start working on it some to get it running before winter time frame. So what I am asking is a couple of questions.
1. First off where do I start I tried pulling the pull cord and could not get it to move at all.
2. I need to get a service manual for this 4 wheeler where can I get it downloaded for free?
3. what do I need to look for and how do I go about this really. I do have experience with 4 wheelers but this one is a little different to me than others because its a V2 and I have no clue where to start internal on the engines. Most of my experience is on the outside portion of troubleshooting on theses wheelers.
Please no smart butt answers as i am new to here but just wanted opinions on where to start. Please and thanks wink:
Hello, well back to where I was last year with this carb. Took my 250 to the mountains for the first time this year and blue smoke, too much gas again. I can't believe that this carb gives me this much trouble. Seems like the choke is stuck but the cable moves freely. Anyone else ever experience this issue? Do you think a new choke cable would maybe resolve this?http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/images/smilies/arghh.gif
OK it was the choke. Put on all new cable and plunger and she is running 100% again. So now the question is, is the carb getting worn out where the plunger needle goes in the small hole and when I use the choke the needle end doesn't get lined back up with the hole?? We'll see how it runs and now that I know what the issue is I can always pull the choke plunger out and reinstall if I start having this issue again.
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