Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

There are tons of advantages to switching to synthetic winch lines on your ATVs. Lighter weight, safer pulls, and best of all, instant repairs if you have a failure of your line while doing a pull. If you are caught with a broken line during a pull you can splice it back together in no time and be winching in 15 minutes or less and heres how.

All you need is a few simple tools and a couple sets of instructions in your toolkit.

Tools:

Sharp Scissors, or Blade

Electrical Tape

Sharpie Marker

Tubular Rope Fid about 1/2 the diameter of your rope line and at least 4-6 inches long

DSC01802.jpg

Formal Instructions:

Eye Splice

End Splice

First you need to measure out the length of your repair. I like to use 2 times the length of the tool that you are using to tread your taper tail down the center of the rope. Make a mark at one length, and a second mark at the second length. The second mark will be where you stick the tail thru your line at.

DSC01804.jpg

Now just past the 1st mark you made mark 3 pairs of rope to cut to make your tapered tail.

DSC01808.jpg

Pull those threads out of the line and cut them off.

DSC01810.jpg

Your tail should now look like this

DSC01811.jpg

The end of your rope should now have only six strands, instead of twelve. Take the end of your rope with 6 strands, and slip your fid thru the center of the rope and tape it to your fid.

DSC01813.jpg

DSC01814.jpg

Thread your taped fid thru your hook and back into the center of the rope, at your 2nd mark.

DSC01817.jpg

DSC01816.jpg

You now have a very large loop in the end of your rope. Push the end of the rope up through the middle of the rope. You'll need to kind of "bunch up" the rope to loosen it up enough to push the other rope through the middle.

DSC01819.jpg

As you bury more and more or the end of the rope, the loop will get smaller and smaller. Eventually you will have the loop very tight around the hook. Pull the end of the rope out so you can pull it nice and tight around the hook. Remove whatever object you taped to the end of the rope to guide it through, and pull the rope tight to re-bury the end. You may have to cut a little off the very end of the rope to get it all to re-bury itself. You have a completed eye splice.

DSC01821.jpg

DSC01824.jpg

DSC01822.jpg

After getting it tight around your hook, pull down and away from the hook on the outer wrap to lock the splice in place.

The end splice is exactly the same except that you now have to create two tapered tails and bury each tail into the two sections of winch line to create the splice. Just in case you break your line in the middle of a pull.

With a little patience you can repair any line in minutes.

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

I you need synth rope in a hurry you can go to any marine store like WestMarine. I have my ropes made up by them from 3/8" x 65" to 1"x75'. I use them for repairing Verizon winch lines. Steel winch lines are not allowed by law due to electrocution hazards. When ordering winch line make sure you get "stablebraid"

It wont stretch easy and doesnt try to rotate when being pulled

Edited by marioweldinginc

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By HoldenBoy
      Hi all,
      Looking for some help on a starter/bendix issue. Can Am outlander 450 2017. While cranking to start, the starter spins and engages into the ring gear. After a few seconds the bendix retracts while still spinning and there is no damaged teeth on the drive pulley.
    • By DexKing
      Good day everyone!
      I am pretty new to ATV/UTV/Small engine repairs and would like input on your absolute must-have specialty tools for maintenance and repairs. Aside from the obvious wrenches and sockets, what are some more specialty type tools you use for troubleshooting? I don't plan to open a repair shop or anything, I just do this as a hobby. Looking forward to your responses!
    • By harryjr
      hello everybody my name is Harry jr and i recently picked up a 90's Yamaha moto4 225 i beleive and neede a starter was all he said ( i know right ) thats what they all say
      anyway i picked up a starter and installed it and when it is crankling it sounds as if it is not turning over freely as i9f there was a one way bearing not worrking correctly so pulled with recoil and it pulled back so hard i ripped out of my hand so hard it actually hurt now i have pulled and kicked a lot of bikes and such but never felt anything quite like this you can hear it try and fire and kick back but still acts as though somthing holding it back does that make any sense to anybody is it flywheel key , or valves wauyout any help would be great i picked tow of these up for $100 and tring to fix so we can ride as a family thank you in advance.
    • By Tim Keiper
      I have a Yamaha Timberwolf 4x4 250. I want to put a winch on it, but just wondering if the charging system will handle it or not ? Has anyone added one to their machine and have you had any issues?
    • By BruinBeater
      I got asked to work on a pair of Yamaha 350's.  One has grizzly stickers, one has bruin stickers.  Both are 2wd, straight rear axle.  Not sure what year.  I'd guess '04-'08.
      Both have a no start condition.  Both have been sitting 2+ years.  One came with box of parts the owners 15 year old kid removed to try and get it running.
      Started working on one last night.  Pulled the rack, front plastic, fuel tank, recoil starter, carburetor.  
      Removed petcock from tank, cleaned screens, made sure if flows air, reinstalled.
      Drained fuel tank, put in fresh fuel, swirled it around, letting is soak and will drain and check it later.
      Cleaned up the motor a bit since its covered in mud.  Checked the valves.  The intake had less zero, actually, probably less than zero clearance.  The valve seems like it was hanging open just a touch even at TDC.
      The exhaust had maybe .004 clearance.  I assume that went to zero once running.  
      Adjust intake to .008.  Adjusted exhaust to .018
      Scrubbed the carb in a sink with a toothbrush, dawn, and water.  It looked like a mudball.
      After that, sprayed it down with carb clean and took it to the bench.  A/F screw was 1.75 turns out.  I'm thinking this is a factory setting.  It seems like this machine was never touched by a mechanic.  All the jets actually seemed clear.  The bowl had minimal residue in it.
      That about as far as I made it for the night.  Going to get a fresh plug, clean the air filter, add some fresh gas, and see if it will run.  If so, I'll probably clean up the oil cooler before putting it back together.  Maybe change the engine oil  and rear diff fluid too.  
×
×
  • Create New...