Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV or UTV? Join our Forum!

    Join QUADCRAZY ATV Forum today for FREE! We keep these forums clean and user friendly. All first posters will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first post is approved, you will no longer need to got through an approval process. To gain immediate approval and a NO ADS experience, consider subsribing to our Premium Membership.

2003 Kawasaki Lakota Sport Throttle Problems


Recommended Posts

So my Lakota Sport isn't running right. It starts and idles fine but gags out (doesn't die) when I hit the throttle unless I go super slow and once I get to the high revs I can play with the throttle all i want. I have so far; put in new gas, cleaned air filter, cleaned carb, changed spark plug, adjusted throttle cable, valves were adjusted about a year ago with only a couple rides on it. Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just found the carb had a little dirt in it the first time. So I took the carb apart again and used air and double checked this time to make sure jets were clear. Now it barely idles for a short time and I can't give it any gas cause it dies out. I don't see what I can adjust in the carb, here is a link to the OEM drawings of my carb 2003 Kawasaki KEF300-B3 Lakota Sport OEM Parts, 2003 Kawasaki KEF300-B3 Lakota Sport OEM Motorcycle Parts - BikeBandit.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have to bare with me cause I am no mechanic. If your talking about the screw to adjust the feul/idle speed I did play with that and there is only one spot were the bike with start and barely idles, if I try and increase or decrease the flow it just dies. The float in the carb doesn't have much movement so it barely moves the float valve(normal? I can't see a way to change that).

I guess now that I think about that, I was moving the float with the carb upside down so i can see it having more valve movement when its flipped over. Im lost! :willy_nillyc:

Edited by verve
mor info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pilot screw is part # 16014 on the diagram, it looks like it would be located on the bottom of the carb, just in front of the float bowl. The hand screw that adjusts the idle is different. The pilot screw should be turned out a bit, contact a Kawasaki dealer tech or consult a manual to find out exactly how far. I would guess that it should be about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. Did you check to see if the diaphragm is in good shape?

The float should move freely quite a bit. The float valve should move a good 1/4" or so. If it doesn't move enough, the pin that holds the float in place could be bent, there might be something obstructing the movement of the float or you could maybe even have the float in upside down. I took some pictures of the float on an old Kehin carb I have lying around. The float and bowl on this carb may be a bit larger than yours, but this should still give you a general idea of how much movement you should have on the float and pin. The float will actually roll up and pull the pin out of the seat hole if the float body didn't hit the plastic buffer plate.



Edited by DirtDemon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for helping DD. So I played with the adjustment on the Pilot, now it idles better but I still can not give it gas or it dies. The diaphram looks good, The float is in correctly. So here are some pics of the carb and shows the float movement, maybe this will help.










Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every thing does look clean and in order there. I see that the float is in correctly, but have you checked the adjustment? Do you have a fuel filter on the machine? If you do, try removing it and see if there is any improvement. Another tip, if you get into your carb alot, the phillips head screws get stripped easily. I like to replace them with socket cap hex screws. They are much easier to deal with since it is easier to get an allen wrench in there with the carb still on and they don't strip like phillips heads do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem solved! So it was not a throttle or carb or gas problem. The battery went bad and would't hold a charge about two years ago and I have just been using the pull start and that worked fine for me. Every time I worked on the bike it just kept getting harder to start and today I was to tired to keep yanking on the pull start so I hooked it up to a battery charger on start assist. It fired right up and runs like a champ. I guess the battery deteriorated enough and the bike doesn't create enough charge it self. So new battery and no more problem. :) I tell you what, I have one clean carb now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to hear you got it running good again. Keep an eye on the battery though, if you were having trouble before at low engine speeds, that could be an indication that your stator is on it's way out. Once the machine is running, it should run off the stator, the battery should have no effect on performance unless the stator is not producing enough power at low engine speeds, or you had a bad connection somewhere. I would check the output from the stator at an idle just to make sure. If it was just a bad connection that was incidentally fixed when you replaced the battery, then everything should be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...