Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

brakes were sticking i tore down to the hub! how does the hub come off the aluminum plate? any info is appreciated! i am mechanically inclined just have never worked on atvs!

Edited by DirtDemon
Posted (edited)

First, there is more than one model of TRX 250 in '04, if you could, specify what it is exactly so we can add that info to the thread title. They all use the same rear axle and brake assembly though. Also, I removed one of your threads, please post your question only one time in the forum.

Before I start, I would recommend buying a repair manual and following the instructions in there before following my instructions, because I am just guessing. I am not sure what you mean by "hub" when you say you have it torn down to the hub. To me, that means you took the wheel off, but I assume you did more than that. I will just start at the beginning.

Take off the rear wheel and hub that are on the brake side, I believe that is the right hand side but I am not sure. Remove the arm, spring and everything else that sits on the brake cam outside the cover. Pull off the seal that is in the cover around the axle. Behind the seal you will see a c-clip, remove it. At this point, you should be able to unbolt the cover and pull the cover off, there is a bearing in the cover so you will need to pull it straight as you pull it off the axle. Depending on what the bearing fits tighter to, the axle or the cover, you may be able to separate them by pushing the cover back toward the drum after moving it out a couple of inches. The bearing may come out of the cover, that may make it easier to get the cover off. My guess is that the shoes are mounted to the back side of the cover, you should be able to remove the springs and pull the shoes right off.

Edited by DirtDemon
Posted

ty for the info. i took the plate and brake drum to a dealer and they removed the drum so i could access the brake shoes! think i have it figured it out now!! now waiting on new bearing and seal and cam so i can reassemble! ty again!!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Rick Shropshire
      I’m looking at replacing rear brake calipers on both of my blasters. I was told that the only thing available was a hydraulic upgrade? I’d prefer the original. Anyone?
    • By Gwbarm
      I decided it was time to do the brakes on the Eiger, i got it a couple of years ago and worked out all the bugs got it running good and ignored the brakes. None on it ,front or rear. Decided to attack the front first no pressure on the master cylinder and screws were stripped out on the reservoir, took the banjo bolt loose and pure water ran out, glad i didnt wast time on drilling the screws out, pads were shot also. Pulled a couple out of my box o parts. One was for right hand so wouldnt work, the other looked fine until i opened the reservoir and full of white powder. Cleaned it out anyway and tried it, only would build up a minimal amount of pressure. So no go on that one. So ordered new master cylinder and pads, so now i have to hurry up and wait.
      On to the back they are drum brakes so i knew this would be fun, 20 year old machines that have been mudded and abused for that length of time nothing comes off easily. The engage shaft was froze solid from corrosion. Getting that out is easy but you have to get to it first.
       

      The center nut was supposed to be 30mm but it wasnt it was 27 the only size not in my large set, go figure,

      The previous owner decided it was a good idea to JB Weld the cover on making it near impossible to get off, had to chiesel it off.

      The mounting plate was a different story, nut was tight tight tight took my biggest impact two or 3 times hammering on it to get it loose after soaking all night in PB Blaster. Got it moving along the splined shaft easily but wouldnt come off, when it got to end of its run it would just stop, ended up using 2 24 inch pry bars one on each side, past the point of being gentle and it finally came off.

      Got to the drum and it came off easily a little suprised at that, it was full of mud and rust, i knew it was going to be bad because there was a snorkle on it when i got it, never buy one with a snorkle, they are highly abused to the machines limit, but i got it cheap .

      Finally got in there and no shoes left and a complete mess.


      Lots of mess to clean up.

      Got it looking a little better.

      Lots of cleanup later! Waiting for new parts. 
    • By DemonQuad666
      I'm sure this has been tossed around on here numerous times but with the unveiling of the new KTM fuel injected 2 stroke. Could this be the first step in a come back for my beloved double ding ding machines. Ok lets hear it. Why do you like one or the other??? Myself, I always felt it was the throttle control and Powerband response with the 2 strokes. I know this sounds weird but on a 4 stroke, no matter size or model. I always felt like i was along for the ride instead of in control. I've spent hours on my buds 400EX, even took a new 450r for a spin. before they discontinued them. Blasters, Banshees, and a number of 125's, 250's and even one late 80's Honda XR250R... Results all the same. For me its a comfort and control that im used to with the 2 strokes.... and i love the smell of bean oil... So lets hear it. Im sick of arguing with same two people at work on this issue.
    • By p5200
      I seem to have no resistance at all on the rear brake pedal and no rear brakes. They were pretty good before I removed the right side crank cover. In order to get to the lower bolts of the cover, I took a piece of baling wire and wired the pedal in the down position. I assume, that caused at least, part of the brake problem. I can't see where fluid came out but, I did have to add more fluid. Added the fluid but still no resistance to pedal. Should I try to bleed the rear brakes? Thanks
    • By 83BMichigan
      Alright so I did some poor planning and put some oversized tires on my ATV. I ended up getting a lift which helped the rubbing at the top but in the rear specifically the tires hit the foot rest/skid plate. I removed those and will figure something out but for now I need to know if/how you all moved the plastics. 
       
      For the rears, I would need the plastic to move toward the front to open more space and in the front move plastic back. 
      photo attached if you have ideas. 

×
×
  • Create New...