Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2000 ds 650. Sometimes it will start sometimes it wont. when it does start it will only run for about 10 seconds and then it dies just like you hit the kill switch. Even if you hold the throttle at a higher rpm it sounds great till it dies. im sure it has to be electrical can anybody give me some feedback

Posted

Get a repair manual and start testing ignition components, my best guess would be that you have a bad CDI box, but it could be alot of different things so you would be best off testing everything and checking for bad connections before you start buying parts. Good luck, these types of problems can be tough.

Posted

thanks josh. I got a shop manual im gonna start going thru all the tests with a voltmeter. it is definatly electrical. It wouldnt even start tonight so I pulled the plugs and it would only spark one time when i hit the start button. Thanks for the feedback. I just wish they didnt make stuff so complicated. Whatever happened to the good ole days when it wouldnt start youd either pull it or coast start it and you was good to go.

Posted

Check your battery, They have to have a good strong one to run. Don't over charge it no more than 2anp. If it's not that then it could be the voltage reg. Check voltage at the battery. If it's over 14+ it could be over charging.

  • 7 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Tinkeringreg
      Hi my name is Greg and I just acquired a free 2000 yamaha kodiac 400 4x4 with the ultramatic transmission that does not run. I plan to get it going and use it around my property

    • By kaidella
      Bought 4 wheeler for kids. Used to run and soon as it was put in gear it died. I have put new carburater, new plug and battery. The neutral light won't come on. I replaced the solenoid, then the positive battery cable and today put new relay assembly on. Still no neutral light. Not getting any juice and I don't know why.
    • By TravisM
      2001 bayou 220 KLF220A
      Need some help putting a new ignition switch on this thing. I'm not finding homes for all the wires. I can hook up the white wire and brown wire, But the switch has a B/W and Solid Yellow wire i can't find a home for, and there aren't any more wires in the vicinity from the harness that match this, except one red wire with a double female end crimped on, and a few B/Y grounds. None of the wiring diagrams i've founder or have been given match.
      I'm also wondering if i have the wrong switch? some switches appear to have 4 wires and other just 2, the Brown wire and a White wire.
      I'm at a loss here. Thanks.
       
    • By mans
      Were is the neutral safety switch on 03' Kodiak 400 4x4 . How xan i check it to see if it's good for a no neutral light no power to machine. Ty
    • By marcosphoto
      Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum.  To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now.  Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years.  I race superbike and motocross.  Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines.  Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards. 
      Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak.  Well, looks like everything else - right?  Wrong!  Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal.  Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out.  However this is where things get weird.  Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff.  So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out.  Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner.  I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with.  Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke.  (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm).  While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together.  Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back.  Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
×
×
  • Create New...